Attention: TDR Forum Junkies As a fairly big job, I put it off for quite a while but I did it this past weekend. I also changed the pump timing and replaced the very leaky fron seal.
The pin in mine was hanging out about 3/32". I drove it back in until it was about 3/32-1/8 BELOW the surface of the case. I used a 2# hammer and it took many, many blows to get it to move that far. It was very tight fitting in the bore and had the feel and sound of being bottomed out from the time I started until it quit moving.
A few observations:
1) This is the first time I used the timing pin for anything, it was a PITA. I marked the damper so I can adjust valves without using the pin again.
2) According to the timing pin, my timing was retarded about 1-1/2-2 degrees. If I had the tools on hand (another dial indicator and magnetic base), I would have popped out the #1 injector and found true TDC. It would have been a lot faster and accuracy would have been confirmed.
3) The instructions with the new seal are bad. I also have the 6 (or so) page instructions from Cummins that show the install from the back side with a special driver. It helped but it was still fun. If anyone wants a faxed copy, PM me and allow a few days.
4) The dust cover included with the new seal is a pain to get square on the front of the crank! You can use the seal driver included with the seal to install it also.
5) The 22mm hex on the alternator can be used to hold the engine from turning while tightening the damper bolts. Since most kits don't have 22mm sockets, I used a 6 point 7/8", it's close enough.
6) Remove the radiator shroud. I did about halfway through. It comes out without removing the upper hose, kind of like a big 3-D puzzle.
Sorry about the novel, I just thought I'd share some info I picked up while doing it. As tight as the pin was in my truck, I think they will ALL eventually fall out.
The pin in mine was hanging out about 3/32". I drove it back in until it was about 3/32-1/8 BELOW the surface of the case. I used a 2# hammer and it took many, many blows to get it to move that far. It was very tight fitting in the bore and had the feel and sound of being bottomed out from the time I started until it quit moving.
A few observations:
1) This is the first time I used the timing pin for anything, it was a PITA. I marked the damper so I can adjust valves without using the pin again.
2) According to the timing pin, my timing was retarded about 1-1/2-2 degrees. If I had the tools on hand (another dial indicator and magnetic base), I would have popped out the #1 injector and found true TDC. It would have been a lot faster and accuracy would have been confirmed.
3) The instructions with the new seal are bad. I also have the 6 (or so) page instructions from Cummins that show the install from the back side with a special driver. It helped but it was still fun. If anyone wants a faxed copy, PM me and allow a few days.
4) The dust cover included with the new seal is a pain to get square on the front of the crank! You can use the seal driver included with the seal to install it also.
5) The 22mm hex on the alternator can be used to hold the engine from turning while tightening the damper bolts. Since most kits don't have 22mm sockets, I used a 6 point 7/8", it's close enough.
6) Remove the radiator shroud. I did about halfway through. It comes out without removing the upper hose, kind of like a big 3-D puzzle.
Sorry about the novel, I just thought I'd share some info I picked up while doing it. As tight as the pin was in my truck, I think they will ALL eventually fall out.
