Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP, Timing Project

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

Howdy,



Since I am new to 2nd Gen's, you'll have to bear with me.



I am going to pull the front cover to tab the KDP and replace the front seal, front cover gasket, I am off of college all next week for spring break, so I will have plenty of time. I decided it would help alot to set the timing since it has 225,000 miles on it. I'll probably order the Snap-On timing set. Any advice would be appreciated.



Where can I get the delivery valve o-ring? Does it need to be replaced?

This truck will be mainly stock, with the exception of BHAF, exhaust, guages, and maybe a torque plate and some pump mods. How much should I advance the timing? I would like to advance it some, but do not want to take away any bottom end.





Steven

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

I've been reading alot, but I'm still confused(not hard).



I figured what I wanted to set the timing at; around 14. 5-15* and the only part of the whole timing process that really worries me is finding TDC I read that the timing pin is not very accurate, and I read about using the valve touching the piston method, and the valve drop method. I think the one with the valve adjuster turned down and using the valve to touch the piston sounds pretty good. Would it not be easier to find TDC while I have the front cover off?? I think if I find TDC then I will be alright, any advice/hints would help tremendously.



Steven

 

[JGK]

Steven,



I assume the timing is to be done on the '98. In case you haven't read it yet this link at dodgeram.org has a good explanation on how to do it. Its pretty much the same on 94 to 98 trucks, other than the delivery valve parts and pieces are slightly different. Just pay close attention to what comes out and the order of pieces.



Shoot for 16. 0 to 16. 5 degrees of timing for best results with little fear of excessive cylinder pressures.



As for finding TDC (from memory - its been several months since I did this, so for God's sake someone correct me if I screw up here!):

1. Get a barring tool, a u-joint, and an/several extention(s) so as to turn it from the front of the engine (run the extention(s) over the alternator down to the bell housing hole for the barring tool). Your ratchet should be just above the radiator, roughly.

2. Make a pointer with a piece of stiff wire to point at the vibration damper on the front of the crank. You can mount it under a cover bolt or a bolt holding the crank sensor so you can see it from above. You can also mount it to a oil pan bolt but that puts it underneath and so you need two people to do the timing (one to watch the damper and pointer from below, the other to watch the dial on the pump up above).

3. Remove #1 valve cover.

4. Rotate the engine forward, watching the valves until your comfortable with the sequence of valve opening/closing. This also gives you a feel for the force needed to bar the engine over. Watch until you see the intake closing up. When it closes, the piston is roughly at the bottom of the stroke and is ready for compression. Note the damper. Rotate forward about 1/2 rotation according to the damper. You should be right near TDC. Both valves are closed and the rockers are loose.

5. Now rotate forward about 1/4 rotation (watch the damper). You're on the power stroke (not that PowerStroke! )

6. Loosen the nut on the intake valve adjustment and back it way off. Finger tighten the adjuster onto the valve stem. With a screw driveer screw it down 5 complete turns. The valve should be pushed into the cylinder.

7. Now rotate BACKWARDS slowly until the piston contacts the valve. It helps if you or a friend can put a finger on the rocker and feel for when the piston contacts the valve. Take it slow and be firm, just don't force it.

8. Put a strip of masking tape on the damper under the pointer with the bulk of it going to the right around the damper (maybe a 6 or 8 inch strip).

9. Mark the tape precisely at the pointer.

10. Rotate the engine FORWARD until the piston contacts the valve again (the exhaust valve should be opening and expelling exhaust). This will be about 3/4 rotation.

11. Mark the tape again precisely at the pointer. Back off the piston and loosen the rocker adjustment (5+ turns until the rocker is loose).

12. Rotate backward a ways until you can measure the distance between the marks on the tape. Make a mark precisely at the mid point. Scribe the damper right through the tape at this mark. That's dead-on TDC. Remove the tape.

13. Rotate backward until TDC and reset the lash on the valve.

14. Rotate the engine a few times with barring tool to ensure you're comfortable with that mark coinciding with the valves as TDC (I screwed up once and was one rotation off!).

15. Replace the cover and proceed with timing adjustment.



You can check as you approach your new TDC mark to see if the pin goes into its hole.



One last comment. Setting timing on a 215hp P-pump can be a challenge. The ramps on the cams in the pump are steep or the springs are really strong and I've had difficulty keeping it where I want it when I pop the timing gear loose to reset to TDC. The pump can rotate backward a bit in the blink of an eye due to the forces inside the pump. Don't worry about it for now, but it did cause me to be come at it diffferently to finally get it timed.



-Jay

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Your 98 should be at 13. 5 deg. bestmpg at 2000 rpm will be at 15. 5 deg. However, you said you don't want to give up any mid range torque. You will lose some as you increase timing but whether that amont is objectionable is a personal thing. If you put some oil at the o ring it may be OK or it may tear and need to be replaced. Your local Bosch shop has them. Don't use a cheapie from a parts house.

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

Thanks guys,



I think if I read the instructions a few more times I'll get the hang of it. I have a whole week to get it right/practice. I'll try setting the timing anywhere between 14. 5-15. 5 and see if I like it.





I'm going to order the delivery valve o-ring from PDR, do I need the delivery valve washer with a 215 pump?





Steven

 

[JGK]

As I remember, there isn't one. But Piers will know.



-Jay