2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission keeping headlight switch from burning?

[Matt42]

Originally posted by WMonroe

The part number was posted a few posts up.

SUM890030

Will

Thanks. My wife tells me that I never pay attention, or listen. Maybe she's right.

 

[wtrenholm]

In reading this post there seems to be some confusion of issues.

The entire headlight circuitry changed when the light switch changed. The old push-pull switch (91-98?) is a feed side switch, meaning 12V is wired to the switch and the switch supplies voltage to the headlights. The rotary switch (99?-02) is a ground side switch, meaning the headlights are connected to the battery and the switch control the ground for the lights.



So, if you are contemplating relays there will be a difference in the hook up. I always put them on the headlight circuits, it's not uncommon to find 2 volts or more dropped by all that current going through the headlight and dimmer switches, more voltage available to the bulb filament means more light output.



The old push-pull switch is known to melt the switch and plug as has been noted here. I've had the headlight feeds melt from adding high wattage bulbs or additional driving lights. More common of rigs I've fixed is the parking light feeds being melted, due to trailer lights, cab lights, etc. The parking light circuits are what is dealt with in the TSB that was mentioned for 1st gens.



The later rotary switch gets hot from the dimmer switch circuitry.



I don't intend to sound like a know-it-all but just wanted to try help get everyone on the same wavelength.



Also, I get all my relays from the salvage yard. You can get relays and harness ends galore. Last time I got a bag of 15 for $10. I got 'em all over on my vehicles.



If you have questions please ask, (I don't get on the net but once a week or so).



Wayne

 

[rweis]

Well I installed the SUM890030 today. I installed it a little differently than RDBuck. I put the relays etc on the driver side over where the rest of the electrical fuses are etc.



The install went smoothly. Unplugged what I think is the OEM harness feed (blue in color) and plugged that into the harness blue plug. Old headlight plugs off, harness headlight plugs on. I mounted the relays by the windshield washer bottle. I grounded the two harness black ground wires directly to the negative of each battery. I had to extend the harness gorund wires to do that, but I did not want any degradation of the electrical path.



Went for a 1 hour drive tonight. I had the panel lights on 1/2 of full bright. The panel headlight switch area got a very tiny bit warm. I think it was the true panel resistor temperature that was being felt. I turned the panel lights a little brighter and the panel resistor temperature was totally gone at about 60% of full bright. The instrument panel light level was very comfortable. Not the "have to take almost maximum bright panel lights so the headlight switch does not overheat" setting.



I am totally pleased with the outcome. WELL WORTH the cost of the harness (approx $40).



I think I will still change the marker lights to LED's to further unload the switch, but that can now be moved down the "to do" list from a "have to" down to a "when I get around to it" level.



I definitely do recommend the SUM 890030 harness or a home grown version of it to permanently fix the headlight switch overheat problem.



The only modification I am going to make in the harness is how it connects to the batteries. The harness uses a fusable link on each feed line. I am going ot change that to a link with a fuse in it. It might be hard to find a fusable link in the middle of the night on a holiday weekend, but I can change a fuse anytime.



I changed the 2 fusible links (where they attach to the battery post) that came on the SUM890030 harness to links that have mini fuses in them and waterproof caps. Feel much better about being able to deal with a fuse problem now than with the fusible links.



Bob Weis

 

[rweis]

After 2 weeks and 4 long night drives there is only a very slight luke warm feeling to the headlight switch.



The SUM890030 solves the headlight overheating problem.



Bob Weis

 

[y-knot]

I love the Summit Racing harness, quality is great and the design is FOOL proof. Right or left side mounting works great, it's your call. I went with the right side (pass) on mine, less crowded over their. The lights are definitely brighter with the kit, what Dodge should have come up with on their own years ago. My switch never got very hot before the install, but now it's Luke warm at longest usage. If you have a Dodge truck, you need to have this kit.

 

[NETim]

OK

Alright you guys convinced me I need this harness, so I ordered it. I've always been concerned about the amount of heat emanating from the headlight switch area. It's especially worrisome to me when I pull my boat with the camper onboard. (Lots and lots and lots of marker/taillights)



Thanks!



Tim

 

[Matt42]

Fuse Size?

Originally posted by rweis

Well I installed the SUM890030 today. I installed it a little differently than RDBuck. I put the relays etc on the driver side over where the rest of the electrical fuses are etc.



The install went smoothly. Unplugged what I think is the OEM harness feed (blue in color) a

-snip





The only modification I am going to make in the harness is how it connects to the batteries. The harness uses a fusable link on each feed line. I am going ot change that to a link with a fuse in it. It might be hard to find a fusable link in the middle of the night on a holiday weekend, but I can change a fuse anytime.



I changed the 2 fusible links (where they attach to the battery post) that came on the SUM890030 harness to links that have mini fuses in them and waterproof caps. Feel much better about being able to deal with a fuse problem now than with the fusible links.



Bob Weis

What was the amp rating on the fuses you used?

 

[rweis]

I used 15 amp fuses.



Arrived at that by:



Lamps should not go over 100w.

100w/12v = 8amp



10 amp fuse might be cutting it close because it will age after a while.



The electrician at work said never go over 80% of an electrical rating.



Had some 15 amp fuses. 80% of 15 amps = 12 amps.



Used them.



Bob Weis

 

[Josparkz]

sounds good

 

[NETim]

I installed the Summit/APC headlight harness tonight. The main wire run is none too long but it is long enough to make the span between the headlights.



I tested operation upon completion and was disappointed to see that the low beams weren't illuminating. The high beams functioned though. After a bit of searching I found one of the spade connectors in one of the relay sockets was pushed out. It was not locked into the socket. A little bit of manipulation locked it into place and cured that problem.



I couldn't tell if the headlights were brighter than original (the sun hadn't yet gone down during the test run) but the headlight switch area seemed cooler to touch. The dash light dimmer pot naturally was warm to touch as I was running with the dash lights at their dimmest setting for testing purposes.



I installed the relays on the passenger side. I simply attached the "L" bracket for the relays to one of the bolts that retains the plastic frame around the radiator. I ran the long wire to the driver side headlight under the battery cable. A little bit neater install IMHO.



I extended the ground leads on each side and connected them to the batts.



I think I had it done in about an hour.



Now we'll see how reliable it is.



Tim

 

[fishjack1]

After reading this post and having replaced my headlight switch once already I figured for $40. 00 it would be worth the money.

I ordered one of the SUM-890030 from Summit and installed it today. Lights do seem noticeably brighter.



What are you guys doing with the "left over" stock bulb connector? Wrapping it with electrical tape? rubber cap? or just letting it hang as is?



I was thinking about protecting it from corroding in case I need to re-connect it in the future. I guess a blown bulb would work as well... . just knock the bulb off and use the base as a plug?????

 

[Matt42]

I used tape and a piece of wire loom. It would have been easier to get to with a prehensile tail.

 

[fishjack1]

Matt I sure hope you are talking about the reptile (aka monkey-tail skink) and not another tool I have to add to my collection.

 

[mkhenry]

Check out this link for headlamp switch problems, especially if your truck is a 94 thru 97



http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1999/cust_notice_820.htm

 

[Bart]

You and listen to all the hipe about fixing this with lots of different things. When my lights went in and made a diagram of which color wire went to which post. I then cut the plastic block AND the connectors AND any anealed wire (burnt) off. I stripped the wires back and installed new shoulderless connector using a T&B crimp tool (don't use a cheap side squasher). I installed all the newly crimped wires back on a new head light switch. This was two years ago, and I just came back from a speed run from So. California to Indiana and BACK. Four days none stop. All along the way I kept touching the outside of the light switch cover and it was just barely warm to the touch. I'm happy with mine and it cost like $10. :--)

 

[Robin]

You didn't say if you are pulling a trailer, but if you are and don't have a towing package, there would be a lot of load on the headlight switch.



Using a relay or relays is the ultimate cure for overloading the headlight switch. But I replaced all the running and clearance lights in my '97 dually with LED units except for the marker lights atop the windshield. Direct replacement clearance light modules are available at any heavy truck dealer. They just plug in. My main purpose was that I was starting to have burned out lamps in the clearance lights and wanted to cure this.



Check this: https://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/w...10001&storeId=10001&productId=30130&langId=-1



The LED lights are brighter, draw much less current, and should last about forever.



On my truck, which has a towing package, there is a relay that controls the running lights on a trailer. I suppose this relay could be wired to operate the running lights on the truck.



I also replaced the truck tail/stop lamps with LED units.



While on the subject, I burned out two $50 backup light switches on the NV4500 transmission before figuring out the reason. My fifth wheel has the normal backup lights plus two docking lights that come on at the same time. They are about the same as foglamps, draw a lot of current, so I was cooking the backup light switch when backing. Sounds like I back a lot. But I do have to back the trailer about 300 feet at home, slowly, so there is plenty of time for heat to build up in the switch.



I made a relay panel for the trailer, which is a forty footer, so all the lights are fed by the trailer house battery which is on charge whenever the truck is running. The running lights including taillights, backup lights, stop and turn signal lights are all operated by four relays from Radio Shack. A bonus is that I can use a light duty flasher which is safer than using a heavy duty.



Another bonus is that all the lights are brighter because the aren't fed through a lot of wiring including the trailer pigtail. Each of the trailer clearance lights are dual bulb so there is 28 clearance bulbs plus the taillights, a lot of current involved.



Bob

 

[CarlJensen]

The Summit kit works very well. Mine came to me missing a relay and when I told Summit they sent TWO new relays that got to me very quickly. Very good service!! Any time a relay can be used to shed load on any circuit it's a no brainer, if you use the kit or purchased pieces makes little diference, you accomplish the same thing ndt protect wire that you do NOT want to burn. It is never a bad idea for any vehicle.

 

[Bart]

Robin, I wasn't pulling a trailer. And I do have a separate trailer circuit, but last summer, I had a camper on the back of the Dodge and the all the lighting (interior and exterior) was run though the trailer connector at the bumper. I did burn out the fuse on the trailer circuit, but the headlamp switch and all lights not feed from the trailer plug stayed on. Thanks for the link to the truck lights. I'll be ordering some of those.

 

[Fish On]

can you hook up the summit racing harness if you have plow lights hooked up also?

 

[Kalaehina]

So let's say my switch is already "acting" burnt (for the second time), I have to replace it first for the Summit kit to work. So I have to do the whole cut and solder deal again? First then install the new Summit kit?