Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Killer Dowel Pin Blocking Tab

[Swamp Donkey]

So yankin it is out of the question? Or even keeping it for later use if the engine ever needs rebuilding? Maybe I am to much of a gambler, because I am not the least bit concerned about the KDP. I guess if I ever get around to it I will do it right with the part shown above. Procrastinator extrodinair... ...

 

[illflem]

Cummins' recommended fix is to pull the cover and apply self wicking Loc-tite (green) to the pin. They also say the pin coming out and causing major damage is very rare. Jig is by far the easiest fix though. Not to worry much, after personally performing over 30 jig fixes only 2 pins had moved but were both still very tight. Both were '97s.

 

[sgriffing]

KDP Jig list

How do you find out where you are on the list to use the jig in your area? I was hoping some of us in North FL could get together and make a day of it.



Regards,

Stevie G

 

[Bob Horrell]

I'll give you another tip on the fix. The biggest PITA is installing the seal in the cover. It is really a tight fit and hard to get in straight, even with the tool provided. When I did mine I put the seal in the freezer and let the front cover sit in the sun, black side up. In the summer the sun really heats up the cover. The seal was a whole lot easier to install. In the winter you could put the cover in the oven at about 200 degrees and achieve the same result.

Bob

 

[Missouri Mule]

Bob did you try to install seal while on engine or going on engine?



I did mine apox. 2 weeks ago with help from mechanic. Naturally tab fix. Posted the variations we did not follow as per instructions.



We put the cover on a work bench, I held one end up to keep cover level ( 2x4 board(s) could be used) while he tried to put seal in front with seal installer after several tries we flipped cover to reveal back side.

The shaft (seal) tunnel flares out on backside so with a impact socket/hammer we tapped seal in from the backside, it went in relatively easy we placed the depth quide on the front of tunnel so the seal wouldn't go out the frontside. He did an adjustment with dept tool after we flipped over to front side and we were ready to go.

I'll have to get more detail from him what was actually used to get it in and amount of time from backside but I would estimate no more than 30 seconds.



To all others for many years I did the " don't take it off/ leave it where it is, I'll work around it"

I finally came to my senses and take off any thing that looks like it can get in the way, things I can bust my knuckles on,having to take up the trade of being a contortionist or making my tools bend just right with my mind !

Take the fan and shroud off (in that order) it adds aprox 15 to 30 minutes to the job. (While the radiator drains you can start removing other parts and as a bonus you get to put new coolant in. Just in case you haven't done it for a while)

 

[Bob Horrell]

Bill,

I installed the seal in the cover while it was off the engine. I set it on the garage floor and used some wood blocks to support it. After trying to install it for 10 or 15 minutes (from the front) and having absolutely no luck - way too tight a fit - I got the idea to cool the seal and heat the cover. I thought about installing it from the back which looked like it might be a lot easier but I didn't have a socket the right size and using anything else chanced damaging the seal.

Once the seal is cooled and the cover heated it went in pretty easy.

I didn't try the install while on the engine method because I didn't take off the radiator or the shroud and that doesn't leave a whole lot of room. I have done a couple of these and feel you can save a whole lot of time by not taking off the radiator or the shroud.

 

[SEmerson]

That big nut for the fan clutch comes right off if you turn it clockwise with a air chisel.