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Killer dowel pin but not quite

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Speedo going out???

Front oil seal install

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OK, here's my dilemma. The bolt holding the oil pump backed it's way out and did a little mangling. To fix it right by disassembling the engine the bill will be in the neighborhood of $2700 but we are not sure whether the bottom end is good because it ran for a few minutes without any oil pressure. What I want to know is the best way to patch it up so we don't have to do the $2700 gamble. I only use it for hunting and occasionally pulling a lawnmower. Thanks in advance!
 
If you crank it up without emoving the lower end to inspect you are gambling.

If you insist on that, at least prime it with oil pressure before you crank it over.
 
Pulling the cam to replace the aluminum case is cake work. The oil pan is another problem in the Dodge unless you have it setting in a four by four. In which case, you can roll in new bearings.
 
Well, I don't know, but I've been charging around $1200 to fix the ones that come into my shop..... maybe I'm underpricing. And maybe, you need to investigate how hard it is to pull the cam and replace the housing. The housing is in the neighborhood of $250, I believe, and I think an oil pump is... what, $100? Search the forum for KDP repair, and I think you'll find, a great article that shows you how to lift the lifters with wooden dowels. Who was that? Mr. Donnelly? Anyway, it's not that hard. I did my first one on a '97 in 2000, and the rest is history. And when you say it ran a few minutes without oil pressure, is that like 2 minutes? Or is it like 15 minutes? These engines are notoriously tough, and it is probably ok if it hasn't been run too long while hot. It definitely needs to be primed with oil before starting again, though. Personally, I think it looks like you've got the hardest part of the work done.
 
Did you take out the little 10mm bolt by the dowel pin, or did that chuck too? It looks to me like that's the bolt that set off the damage. The crank rotates CW, the cam turns CCW. It looks like that little rascal dropped onto the cam gear and took a wild ride. I can't answer your question though about the bearings. I'd be tempted to think it was OK if run for less than a minute and not hard.
 
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That's a very good point, Red Ram. I didn't even notice or think of that, but I'll sure bet you're right. Those little pins are pretty tough.
 
The truck ran probably a total of about 5 minutes without oil pressure. HH-I sure wish I was closer to TX! I'm not exactly sure which bolt was the instigator, the shop said it was one of the oil pump bolts. I'm still reading through KDP repair threads trying to decide what to do. The shop said it was about 30-35 hours worth of labor to do it the right way for replacing the gear case. Does that sound out of line??
 
EZ, Here's an outside article with some pictures. I think this guy makes it sound harder than it is. Maybe I've done enough of them, I don't think that much of it anymore. The dowel rods are pretty easy to make with a belt sander or grinder. I can show you a pic of a lifter and some dowel rods installed, if you'd like. The key is to make sure the rods fit tight enough not to drop the lifter, 'cause if they do, it's a pain. I've never done it, but I can see it'd most likely require the pan coming off... . or a really talented monkey with a wire and magnet!! HA!!

The shop you're talking to will probably pull the cam and lifters with a magnetic cam lifter, which has a cable attached to a magnet for pulling it, and a piece of halp pipe to keep them from falling into the pan. If you can find some of those tools, it's even easier. I'm just cheap and haven't coughed up the money for them.



Diesel Database :: 12V Dowel Pin Repair
 
I'm with red ram,it looks like the bolt next to the dowel pin fell out and went between the cam gear and housing. thats what broke the housing.

you're lucky. I have seen two where the bolt just above the oil pump fell out and went through the gears. broke the camshaft in both motors. same bolt. did'nt break the housing. I replaced the cam and lifters and push rods. checked all the valves. none were bent. '
 
EZ & HH, maybe the shop doesn't know the easy way to do it and is going to pull the engine. They probably are anyways to check the bearings, that's a standard operating procedure to CYA (cover your a**). If the truck spits a bearing the next week you have it back they have to foot the bill for the new bottom end. They figure it's better for you to pay for it. ;)
 
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