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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Killer Dowel Pin, looking at it with Borescope?

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I've done more jig fixes than I care to try and count. I've never had a problem with shavings getting in the case. I've pulled front covers after drilling ... no shavings ..... the jig fix is safe. Reb it is great to have an opinion on what works best for you, we all have them. Bashing the jig method as BS is just simply BS and reflects YOUR opinion.



The tab method is a good method to use as well ... . there are advantages going this route. I won't bash the tab method ... . I've done many of those as well. Each method carries their own pluses and minuses.



Note to everyone ... ... banging the front seal into the case is not good and you can distort the seal costing you more $ and a do it again job.
 
I think the broken tabs were made from saw blades. NOT a good idea since there is a lot of vibration. Mild steel works fine.



Installing the seal can be a real frustrating job if you don't have the right tools. Using a drill press is probably the best way to do it. I didn't have one when I installed my tab. I managed with my vise but it was real awkward (need three hands minimum). Banging a seal in is not a good idea.
 
WAHarrison,

In reply to your original question and subject of this thread, I purchased a flexible fiberoptic borescope for another application, but with the secondary purpose of scoping out the kdp on my 1st gen. I took the oil filling standpipe out of the front cover for access. It didn't work. 1) There is not enough room between the gears and cover to maneuver the scope. 2) The scope fibers will

break if bent in less than an 8" radius. 3) The scope light source is not nearly bright enough for this application if you did have room to put the scope into the dowel pin area. 4) The scope I purchased(ATD) focuses to give good resolution, but with a limited field of view. It is excellent to view objects with once you are in range, but it is very time consuming to search for objects with. (especially if everything is the same shade or color)

For example, when I was reinstalling my transmission and

the bell housing looked like it was sitting squarely on the pilot studs I had screwed into the engine in place of the bell housing bolts, I stuck the scope in through the clutch fork opening in the bell housing to see why the nose of the main shaft wasn't going into the pilot bushing. I could see the misalignment, wiggled

the transmission in the right direction and it slid on into place. I knew exactly where the area I wanted to observe was, what it should look like, there was some background contrast, and it was a relatively straight shot in with the scope tip. My scope was an excellent aid in this case, but worthless in viewing my dowel pin.
 
I have used the "Jig" method on about 15 5. 9L engines at this point, and none have experienced any problems at all! Thanks to John! (CPFF)



Wayne

amsoilman
 
Just a little reality check here. A KDP failure is relatively rare. So far, I have not heard of any failures experienced by anyone who applied one of the preventive fixes. There have been failures involving trucks belonging to TDR members so we know that it does happen often enuff to justify doing one of the fixes being discussed. Cheap to prevent, VERY expensive to fix. Who knows if one or more of Wayne's 15 trucks would have failed without the fix.



I prefer the tab method mainly because I'm very uncomfortable with the jig "blind faith" procedure. That doesn't mean that it doesn't work. Obviously it does.
 
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