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? killer dowel

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Low RPM stutter

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Good morning fellow TDR members;

I have a question on the seal kit for the gear housing cover. I want to do mine Monday. The kit has 3 items. (1) two lip seal that is the main seal,(2) metal ring to seat the seal, (3)what looks like a single lip seal. Question, where does the single lip seal go. Inside the houseing cover or on the out side. I think that it should go on the outside to protect the main seal from the envirement. I am not sure so does anyone know how it goes.

Sam Buchanan

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #
 
That's the same question I had. I'm pretty sure it doesn't go on the outside just based on how it looks. I think it's to keep excess oil off of the inside lip of the main seal so that it has an easier job of stopping any leakage. I slid mine onto the crankshaft with the flat side facing the engine and the ridged side facing out. It's a light friction fit on the crank. When I pressed my main seal in, it contacted that seal and positioned it in the proper place, right against the back of the main seal. I hope I did the right thing, no leaks so far but it's only been a short while. It looks like a change that was made by Cummins to make the seal better but of course no instuctions and nothing in the service manual. There may be something in a later service manual but I don't have any idea of what year that was.
 
Sam,

The smaller single lip seal is some kind of oil slinger ring. When I did mine the I left the slinger ring out because it was not part of the original assembly. I have no leaks.



Clean your crank with some brake-clean and install the seal dry per the instrucions.
 
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Gentlemen: If I may add to this discussion... . The Cummins front crankshaft/timing housing seal kit consists of three components:
1) the seal 2) an installation tool 3) an alignment/installation sleeve that slips over the crank snout for slipping on the newly sealed timing cover.

The alignment/installation sleeve is then removed after the timing cover is fastened in position.

The seal is a Teflon laydown lip type. They must be installed on a DRY, CLEANED, NO-OIL RESIDUE crank snout surface. They are designed to transfer a film of teflon to the dry, clean crank surface after initial startup.

Hope this helps a bit.

Frank
 
Frank, we are not talking about the plastic install sleeve that gets removed after the seal is slipped on to the crankshaft. There is another seal, black, round with a flat side and a ridged side. It has the Cummins name on it and it is a perfect friction fit on the crankshaft. There was no such seal when the gear cover was removed but it was in the new seal kit... If anyone knows where this is supposed to fit, please speak up.
 
Thank all.
Realy appreciate the help but my question has not been answered. Maybe some one will come up with the right answer. Using it as an oil slinger ring sound like a good ideal, also using it as a seal to heep dirt and water etc away from the seal could be a good ideal to. I guess you could use it either way but I would like to know which way Cummins uses it. May be some one will come up with something by Monday morning. If not will make a decision when I am ready to go back with the cover.
Thanks again to Dieselnerd,R. ebel,and Frank
This is one great site.
Sam B.
 
The original did not have this piece, according to my local Cummins parts/service house it is to be installed on the crank inboard of the seal, i. e. slinger ring. My seal was installed in the wee hours of the morning so I copied what I found... no "extra" ring... no leaks either. Thats good enough for me!

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9535hundred
 
Well it is not a killer anymore. It is in the jail house now. Fixed me up a washer and it is contained. BUT!!! The first washer I made I droped it and yes it went stright into the oil pan and that is where it stays I Hope. Stsrted it up and ran it around the block and didn't hear any grinding so I hope it stayes on the bottom of the pan.
I left the black seal out. I will keep check on it to make sure it doesn't leak.
Thanks for all the help

Sam B.

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #
 
PS
The dowel pin was in plase and hadn't started to back out. I taped it with a hammer and punch to make sure. Thought someone might be enterested.
Sam B.
 
Originally posted by samb:
The first washer I made I droped it and yes it went stright into the oil pan

S#$%!
When I was doing mine, thats the 1st thing I thought... "A guy could drop something in there real easy".

Sure glad it went to the bottom. You might even be able to get it out on the next oil change!
#ad

Mike



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94 2500HD 4X4 5sp w/GearVendors O. D. 4:10 L. S. D. , K&N Oval w/ Pre-Filter, Straight Exhaust, Geno's Fumotovalve, AW-Direct Idle Controller, DiPricol Boost/Pyro/Fuel w/ Kevlar BSS line, Mag-Hytec Rear, 126K miles. Halon Protected, NRA Member. V1=Anti-"pinch" protection. KDP 125,700-NM-WT Insurance
 
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