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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Killer Dowell Pin Again

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) engine year

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I just bought A 1998 Dodge 2500 2WD with a 5.9 Liter 24 Valve. I'm in the process of installing a KDP kit, pin was flush but not taking any chances. My question is 2 of the 3 case bolts that are located behind camshaft gear. One I can loosen but won't come all the way out (about 1/8 out of hole) and the other is behind gear. Do I loosen then clean and place Loctite 290 behind the head of bolt and reinstall (290 is the wicking Loctite). Also can I remove the 4- 13mm bolts by crankshaft, one at a time and apply Loctite 271 (Red) and reinstall and torque. I believe there are 2 more 13 mm bolts behind camshaft for retainer, can I do the same with these. I have searched forum a lot of good information but can't find anything directly about this issue. I have also looked at different KDP instructions, but question not answered. I want everything tight before I button it back up.


Thank You for any info
 
Do NOT use "RED" Loctite on that small of bolt. If it is used correctly you WILL NOT BE ABLE TO REMOVE them if needed without heating the bolt. If you read the bottle it says "not service removable"
 
I see this is your first post. Welcome.

I used a barring tool to manually turn the engine over, to get to the 3 bolts behind the camshaft gear, available from Geno's. When you get a chance fill out your truck profile. Do you have an auto or manual? Some guys with manual trannys just leave it in gear and move the truck slightly, although I imagine it's pretty heavy and you have to be careful you don't go too far.

I imagine you got your kit from TST products, which has really good instructions. Some guys make up their own retainers and just download the instructions from the TST website.

http://tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf
 
In theory the timing case bolts should be sufficiently tight since Cummins started using Locktite on them starting in '98 or maybe part way through '97. But doesn't hurt to check of course.
 
The sealer was first used on bolts around 1996. I remove two of the bolts that can be accessed through windows in the cam gear, and just tighten the one that is hidden behind the solid part of the gear, using a bent open end wrench. I also just check tightness on the bolts holding the oil pump and cam retainer. The bolts that tend to get loose are those which go through the gasket holding the gear case to the block, as the gasket takes a set over time.
 
I recently (3 weeks ago) jammed a large stick up through my radiator while driving down an old logging path to retrieve my dads stuck tractor. So while I had the radiator out I figured it would be as good a time as any to pull the harmonic balancer and inspect it and pull the gear case cover and have a looksee. The dowel pin was in there and appeared to be tight but I decided to make a tab for it anyway. I simply used a 5/16 fender washer and whittled it down until it fit.

IMG_20140710_155059_514.jpg


IMG_20140710_155059_514.jpg
 
It's amazing what you can find laying around to fabricate a tab.

These dowel pins are like exploratory surgery. You're not sure what you'll find until you pull the gear case cover off. Mine looked exactly like the one above at 115,000 miles, and I also went ahead and tabbed it anyway. My nephew just picked up a '95 with 250,000 kilometers. He had the mechanic who was doing the safety, check the pin. His was ready to fall out. Go figure. He caught his just in time.

If I ever do another one, and find a loose one, I'll just try pulling it out with a pair of vise grips and be done with it. How often does anyone replace the gear case any way? If you have to, just get 2 long gear case bolts, cut the heads off, and use them as temporary pins.
 
I purchased a 98.5 Ram 2500 about 2 months ago with 88k miles on it. I just did the KDP inspection and fix. My pin was out about 1/16" and could be tapped-in about 1/8." I fabricated a shim out of a piece of old Toyota Prius battery cover. It had a hole for the nearby screw that was the right size.
 
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