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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) killer dowl pin for early 2002

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) NV5600 & Synchro's

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Stutter

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Ken;

if it were me and I was going to all the work of removing parts to get to the pin I definitely would do the tab with plenty of loctite. I believe just staking the pin it will in time work its way out into the gears. Your working with Aluminium, and steel, plus vibration. That pin can work its way though that staking. You want to contain it. I staked mine and also tabbed it. Take the advice of those that have done it. You can make your own tab, I did, but I used a longer bolt that was recommended.

Its you choice. Have fun.
 
The factory fix was a 360 degree "stake" job so to speak. The ridge around the hole making the bore smaller is almost invisible just looking at it. I had to take a 90 degree awl to scratch the bore to know if mine was improved or not on my old 99 (and it was improved).



What if the bolt that holds the tab loosens and the tab moves. If you say loctite is the solution to the bolt moving, then its the solution to the pin moving. Staking deforms the bore at the ends making it impossible for the pin to come out the hole... unless it has the force of a hammer driving it. To which I say the tab would bend as well. :)



Once solution I've never seen is to tap the bore and thread an allen set screw into the tapped hole... using loctite blue or red. Wonder if that would work.



Whatever anyone decides... at least do something. :)
 
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