Kingpin Removal

[PPeters]

Little help. Need to remove the lower driver side kingpin, don't have the *special* tools called out in shop manual. Any tricks out there?



Pat

 

[Philip]

The lowers are a bearing with a pin that is held in with four bolts. You just remove the four bolts holding the lower cover on and use a chisel to break it loose and wedge it down and out.



The lower bearing race you just drive out with a punch. Just hit it on the sheet metal cover and the cover and race will come out. The new bearing kit will come with a new cover.



Just use a punch to reinstall the new race and cover.



I hope you axle isn't like mine. When I did my axle in Oct of last year. I could not get my right side lower bearing race installed. I ended up having to use a die grinder and open the bore up to install it.







The uppers have four bolts to holding the spring and bushing in. To remove the upper king pin you need a 7/8's allen wrench.

 

[PPeters]

Philip:



Thanks man I tore into it this weekend, and got the top off no problem, pulled the bushing out and cleaned it, looked to have some wear so will replace it. The pulled the bolts on the lower, and soaked it with PB, didn't want to go after it with a chisel until I spoke with someone with more experience. Was also wondering about driving it out from above and the dustcap, now I know.



So the upper is just a 7/8th allen? Didn't really look closely at it . I should be able to find one somewhere.



This all started with a bad front axle U joint. Figured since I have to take it apart to get at the U, started looking at other stuff. Rotors, wheel bearings, spindle shaft needle bearing, spacer, seals, wheel seals. Probably just do the whole mess, cause I just finished doing that on the back when I installed rear disks. That way it's all new and ready for another 175K Except my wallet's screaming



Pat

 

[Philip]

Yea tell me about the wallet. I went completely threw mine. I know what you getting into.





Don't forget to get the camber correction kit for the lower ball joint. Then you can put it on a front end rack and get the chamber set properly.

 

[PPeters]

Camber correction kit? Never heard of it. What is it/where do I source it? You said ball joint, assuming you meant king pin.



Thanks!



Pat

 

[Philip]

Ball joint/king pin it is still the same part in our app. I got mine from a local part store. The moog number if I remember right is a K992. This replaces the bottom ball joint with a new cap and a adjustable bolt that goes into the bearing assy. Hang on these items are not cheap. For both sides at my local store cost me $360. Just for the lowers.



Those bushings on top are Dodge only. Same with the upper king pin. The bushings are less the $5. each. The king pin's are $125 each.



Get new springs when you do the uppers. When I stood the new srpings up beside the old ones. They were 3/8" taller.

 

[JFitzgerald]

Pat, I just went through this project myself a couple weeks ago and thought I'd pass on a couple things I learned. NAPA could not get me the king pin kit, but dealer could. I purchased a complete kit for top and bottom at Randy's Ring and Pinion. This is one kit that was honestly complete, with new seals, bearings, spring, spring cover, grease zerks, bolts, nuts, lock washers, gaskets, loctite, etc. Their normal price was $46 for the kit and Randy's will deal too. I have no affiliation with them, just happy with the good parts and service for a good price.



Instead of trying to get a 7/8" allen wrench, I took an old 7/8" hex lug nut (the long, closed-end type) and cut the cone end off flush. Dropped it into the king pin and used a 7/8" socket on a 3/4 drive breaker bar. With heat and a cheater pipe, I finally won. The manual calls for 500-600 lb. ft. on the king pin!



Here's a site that has a great tech section on the Dana 60 with part numbers, drawings, tips, etc. There's also an online manual here.



Hope this helps!

 

[jstarnes]

hummm

I would say that unless your kingpin is rust pitted badly I would leave it



If you dont get it tight enough it will loosen and every time you turn the wheel the threads will work back and fourth untill they wear out then you have to replace the inner knuckle





Im not trying to spook you just offering a word... ... .





Good luck!

 

[JFitzgerald]

Originally posted by jstarnes

hummm

I would say that unless your kingpin is rust pitted badly I would leave it



If you dont get it tight enough it will loosen and every time you turn the wheel the threads will work back and fourth untill they wear out then you have to replace the inner knuckle





Im not trying to spook you just offering a word... ... .





Good luck!

I considered that while I had it apart. My kingpin was in good shape. It was the bottom bearing that was loose. I decided to replace the kingpin while I had it apart. I used loctite, a 3/4 breaker bar with a cheater pipe. So far, so good.

 

[PPeters]

Update

Ordering parts from local gear shop, small problem. Can get all the parts from spicer EXCEPT the lower kingpin seal (spicer part number: 37305). Not available from spicer any longer. Gear house is looking for another source. If they cannot be found, can you get a race puller in from the bottom to remove the old one? Don't want to drive out from above if I can't get the "dust cap".



JFitz, you got contact info for Randy's?



Thanks for all the prompt responses, you guys are great



Pat



JFitz: Found Randy's, thanks.

 

[Philip]

There isn't room to get a puller on the race when it is installed. The race holds the cover in place.



The cover was included in the kit I bought.

 

[PPeters]

That's what I was afraid of. I'm hopeful that another source can be found for the seal, want to do this job right (and once!)



Thanks Philip.



Pat

 

[JFitzgerald]

Glad you found Randy's. The kit I got had the new dust cap and seal you mentioned. I'm telling you it was a complete kit. I drove the dust cap, seal and race out all in one from above using a big 3/4 drive socket of a diameter close to the hole size. Good luck.

 

[Philip]

I all ready had the upper king pin off. So I just blasted it out with an air chisel. I like air tools.



There are also two seals on the inside of the axle tubes. To replace these you will need to drop the front cover and then the ring gear carrier assy. I you do decide to replace these seals. Use the Dodge seals. The aftermarket seals do not have the metal lip to help guide the axle shaft threw the seal. The axle will tear up an new seal without the metal lip to help guide it.



A 2" bore brush works good to clean the dirt and trash build up out of the axle tubes.





No on your problem with the dust cap. Pull the upper king pin out. I think the race overhangs the spindle hole enough you could beat it out and not mess the cap up to much. But you need a straight shot onto the cap. The only way to do this would be to have the upper king pin off the axle.

 

[Philip]

TTT



How you getting along with this project?

 

[PPeters]

Well, the job would be done, if I could get my parts



Ordered them last week (early), didn't make it in by Friday, gear house said they were coming in from 3 different places around the country. Asked again on fri if they had found a source for the lower pin upper seal, parts guy went ... . "Oh yeah, my supplier was supposed to call back. . "



So will call this morning to see if he got the call back. If not, then I will check out Randy's Ring and Pinion.



Got the parts out though. Bought a 7/8" long arm Allen key, and scrounged a 4' piece of schedule 40 2" steel pipe. Soaked everything in PB, banged on the upper with a brass hammer around the knuckle, leaned on the end of the pipe until my left was about to pop, then pushed a little harder. Came right out. Then I picked myself up off the floor. Used an 8" brass drift to drive out the lower seal and bearing assembly.



Pat

 

[PPeters]

Still no parts



So I'm tearing down the passenger side, and I'm on the last lower bolt... . SNAP! This after soaking them in PB for the past 3 days



I'm cursed. Should be able to pry off the lower king pin tonight, then figure out how the h*** to get the rest of the bolt out. Probably liberal amounts of PB, hammering, heat, vise grips :{



I feel better now



Pat

 

[Philip]

Probably have to drill the broken bolt out. I hate it when that happens.



A punching bag hanging in the corner of the garage is good to take the anger out on.

 

[JFitzgerald]

Time to resort to the flame wrench. My bottom bolts were a bear to get out too. The Dana 60 I did is in my Jeep, and was from a '78 Chevy. Those bolts had been in there 25 years and had been drug over the rocks on trails for several years, so the bolt heads were worn and rounded off before I even attempted using a wrench.



If you can, why not cancel the order for the slow moving parts and get the complete kit? I had mine in 3 days from west coast to IL. If you're concerned about quality, don't be. The kit has name brand parts like the Timken bearing and race for the bottom. Just a thought... .

 

[PPeters]

JFitz:



Right on, brother. First thing tomorrow I call the gear house. If nothing new, hello Randy.



Gonna break out the torch tonight.



Pat