Kore Stabilizer Bar Drop Block Install... article/pics

[Yo Hoot]

When lifting these trucks, there often are a few details that get left unaddressed. One in particular is the geometry of the stabilizer bar pivot point in relation to the axle... before lift and after.



With death wobble always in the back of our minds, it's most important that we cross every "T" so there aren't any questions if it does occur.



Putting the stabilizer bar where it belongs is most important. The nature of the design of this suspension system is based on parts swinging arcs as the suspension travels. All of these motions create unwanted forward and backward oscillations that we need to keep to a minimum. By matching the "level" of the pivot point of the bar back to it's original stock geometry we can eliminate the one sided travel created by the lift kit.

Mine's been in for a couple weeks. I definately feel the difference. Front end seems to handle bumps even better with a more controlled recovery. Basically it feels more responsive and tighter over terrain.



You can view the Full Article Here



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[geusterman]

Sooooo... . those of us up two inches in the front with KORE extra long springs are being encouraged to add the stabilizer blocks to eliminate some kind of wear that was unforseen? Just asking... . George

 

[Tim]

I thought their kit didn't change geometry enough to require any changes?

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

The Billet Drop Blocks for the anti-swaybar are a great addition to an already great system. The are not needed, just suggested. They do not eliminate unforseen damage. Simply, they put a little pressure on the anti-swaybar ends. Customers have stated that they increase the feel in cornering and make the truck feel more stout. I personally feel we are lucky that Kroeker keeps coming up with all this rad stuff. If not, our trucks would still have Rancho shocks and steel spacers.



Greg

 

[Yo Hoot]

I thought their kit didn't change geometry enough to require any changes?

Not necessarily true.



2" will reduce your caster angle. It's a good idea to adjust that back in.



Like I stated in the first post, all of the suspension components on the Dodge hang from pivoting members. By lowering the axle (raising the truck) you're moving the "center" of suspension travel away from stock position in relation to all of the frame mounts. Every link will be slightly skewed downward.



2" is not a major change in the overall picture. The blocks are a simple addition that tweeks things closer to stock geometry.

 

[jrobinson2]

2" will reduce your caster angle.

This is widely reported and not true. The upper control arms are shorter and as the axle drops they follow a shorter arc, this pulls the top of the axle back and actually slightly increases caster. A radius arm system like Ford ran in the '70s and resurrected for the '05 trucks decreases caster but the Dodge five link does not



Jared

 

[Yo Hoot]

This is widely reported and not true. The upper control arms are shorter and as the axle drops they follow a shorter arc, this pulls the top of the axle back and actually slightly increases caster. A radius arm system like Ford ran in the '70s and resurrected for the '05 trucks decreases caster but the Dodge five link does not



Jared

I may be wrong on that one. It certainly would be obvious when aligning on a rack. I know that after doing the lift, increasing caster has helped.



Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[Kry226]

Interestingly enough, after installing my coils, the alignment shop showed me that I already had at least +5* caster on both sided before the re-alignment. He just evened them up during the procedure. Never had a problem with DW, but I do want to add the sway bar drop blocks though.

 

[TexBamBam]

Yo Hoot do you have any photos on installing the back spring pack?

 

[hasselbach]

Interestingly enough, after installing my coils, the alignment shop showed me that I already had at least +5* caster on both sided before the re-alignment. He just evened them up during the procedure. Never had a problem with DW, but I do want to add the sway bar drop blocks though.

With the solid front axle, there is no way to 'even up' the caster with the dodge set up. Yes, you can change the concentric washers from side to side, but all that does is compress the rubber at opposite points of the links.



Think about it for a minute, you can't change the inclination of one steering joint without having the same movement on the other side. The only way you could even up or cross adjust the caster is by being able to pivot one side independent of the other side.

 

[LightmanE300]

I dont know much about alignments, or which bolts are adjusted, but when I stood there watching my alignment get done after my kore install, I watched them adjust the caster until it was 4. 3 on both sides. One tech walked up and said 'there is no caster adjustment' and the tech working on my truck said yes there is, right here, and pointed it out. I remember the conversation, but couldn't tell you where they were.



Bling Bling Boardman - I'm sure you can explain how to adjust the caster.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Yo Hoot do you have any photos on installing the back spring pack?

I didn't do the spring packs. Leveling kit does not include them.

 

[Yo Hoot]

With the solid front axle, there is no way to 'even up' the caster with the dodge set up. Yes, you can change the concentric washers from side to side, but all that does is compress the rubber at opposite points of the links.



Think about it for a minute, you can't change the inclination of one steering joint without having the same movement on the other side. The only way you could even up or cross adjust the caster is by being able to pivot one side independent of the other side.

You're right if you don't do it equal on both sides you are trying to "twist" axle.



But, something will give if you have one adjusted drastically different than the other. I think the give translates into a crooked axle, one tire more forward than the other. The sum of the lengths of the arms on the right side theoretically should equal the sum of the lengths of the left side to keep the axle square with the frame.



Since the upper arm is not adjustable, lengthening the lower arm not only turns the axle for caster adjustment, it also pushes the axle forward.

 

[TexBamBam]

I didn't do the spring packs. Leveling kit does not include them.

Too bad... I have to install a set soon and I did not get any instructions of any kind for the front or back.



Also I thought the WD cure was 6 degrees of positive caster

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

TBB,

Give me a call and I can shoot you out some instructions.

Greg



LM300,

Put a big wrench on it and pull!!!

 

[Patriot_RAM]

Caster... .



I installed my Kore kit this week. I took the truck in to have the alignment checked before installing it. The caster was perfect. The only thing that was adjusted was the toe. Like I said -- I installed the kit this week and will have it on the alignment rack again Saturday morning. I'll let you guys know if the caster requires adjustment and how much it is off.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Judging from responses to this thread it does look like the two inch lift does little or nothing to alter caster. jrobinson2 has it right. The shorter upper arms keep caster constant throughout travel.

 

[Coolslice]

Judging from responses to this thread it does look like the two inch lift does little or nothing to alter caster. jrobinson2 has it right. The shorter upper arms keep caster constant throughout travel.

It sure has done something to my truck. My next adjustment will be to remove it and go bacy to factory setup. For me, nothing ever works like it's supposed to. :-laf

 

[Ereynolds72]

Judging from responses to this thread it does look like the two inch lift does little or nothing to alter caster. jrobinson2 has it right. The shorter upper arms keep caster constant throughout travel.

I've had some issues with my truck too since I installed the Pace system. It raised my front end nearly 3". I developed a pinion vibration on the front driveshaft, which got considerably worse when I adjusted caster positve (maxed out adjusters) to eliminate the slight case of death wobble that started after installing the lift. The alignment shop did not adjust caster as it "was within specs". Most alignment shops will only adjust toe and call it good. Anyway, I still haven't figured out what to do about the pinion angle vibration and I'm still driving without a front driveshaft. But! after making the caster adjustment and putting on E Rated tires, the steering feels great. I probably will do the sway bar spacer blocks as $$ allows.



I love the ride and handling after installing the kit but you'll never convince me that 2" or 3" does not change the suspension geometry.



For whoever asked... I'll add pictures to my gallery of the rear mini-packs.

 

[TexBamBam]

Ereynolds72, have them check the Ft Drive shaft, I had the same problem and it turned out that the drive shaft had two bad U joints and the shaft joint was bad. They replaced it under warrantee. After waiting three weeks because they were on nation wide back order... looks like there was a problem with the shaft. Good luck...