Archived Lacking Power on hills

[tropical trim]

My 97' diesel is lacking power on hills. RPM'S drop as turbo wine seems to deminish when under load. Checked acuator and applied 40PSI air and it's not leaking and arm moves up and down. Please help need truck for hauling. Thanks Kyle

 

[moparguy]

Hello Kyle, first of all, welcome to the site. Now a couple of questions, is this a new development, is the truck stock, how many miles.



You may have already checked the turbo boost hose clamps there are five (or so), if not, make sure they are all tight.



I'll bet someone can help you figure things out.



RJR

 

[tropical trim]

Thanks for the reply and the warm welcome! It's a stock unit and I did check all the hose clamps, all were tight and secure. Could it be a fuel problem? Seems like when you step on the pedal there's no response at all. The further you get up the hill the rpm's keeps dropping slowly. I did change the fuel filter and blew out the pre screen filter. Maybe there's not enough fuel to trigger the boost on the turbo. Just a tought, what do you all think? Thanks Kyle

 

[tropical trim]

Sorry RJR, 75,000 miles on the unit.

Thanks Kyle

 

[Boldt's Wagon]

Is this an automatic? What rear end ratio? How much load, total GCVW? What percent grade hill? What gear/rpm/mph are you pulling the hill at? Is this a California truck? Is the catalyst still on the truck?

 

[moparguy]

I'd check with a muffler shop about making up a replacement pipe for the cat, it could be plugged. I'd also check the boost sensing line from the turbo to the back of the AFC housing, it's either plastic, or a combination of plastic and metal. A hole in it would keep the AFC from sensing boost and not allow full fueling.



With the engine off, have someone put the pedal to the floor and go to the pump and make sure you're getting full travel on the lever that the accelator cable is connected to.



From what you've described, it seems like a fuel problem, you might rig up a fuel pressure gauge, route the line into the cab and go for a drive and watch pressures to see what's going on.



Timing slipped? I'd check out the fuel issues first. I've also heard of strange things happening when the fuel return valve starts going bad. We've had several post about it.



Good luck, RJR

 

[tropical trim]

B Wagon- I have a auto trans. Seems to slow down on even the slightest hills, grade % ? Also even on straight aways , if you stomp it the turbo goes and slowly dies. Gear ratio? I know its stock.

Mopar guy- I did a test on the boost line when I tested the acuator for leaks. No leaks on the line and acuator.



My neighbor works at the dealer ship and brought the truck in for diagnostic test. The top mechanic says he's 95% sure it's the turbo unit going bad. Will cost around $1400 to fix. What do you guys think? Does this sound like the problem? If so should I invest in a after market turbo? I'm a landscaper and usually use it to haul my dump trailer, equipment trailer bobcat, etc. What turbos are good? Can the stock trans handle the extra boost? Should I beef up the trans? If the investment is going to prevent failing stock trans and better performance and reliability I'm all for it. Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks

Kyle

 

[Boldt's Wagon]

What Moparguy said. Before you buy a turbo, check the boost. You can hook up a gauge and tape it to the windshield wiper for a test. The stock auto should get 18-20 psi boost at wide open throttle. Also check the forum for adjusting the gov lever contact point on the fuel plate in the injection pump. Also do a search on throttle linkage for the multiple ways throttle linkage failures can limit fueling.

 

[dsldoug]

frist where are you located

next in this order

1-check for wide open throttle

2-check fuel shutoff solnoid for full travel

3-lift pump pressure

4-lift pump volume after the filter

5-boost at the manifold(if low drill and tap turbo elbow and check)

6-exhaust restriction

7-check if the turbo spins freely and if it has been rubbing

(do not push the shaft side to side you can see the wear)

don't spend $1400 unless the mechanic can answer all these questions with numbers in writing frist



-doug

 

[wcjp]

I'm not in any way knowledgable about Cummins. A guy I work with had the 1st Gen truck and very similar problem to you. Throttle cable was bad. One week after replacing it his son's 1st Gen also ate the throttle cable.

 

[tropical trim]

Thanks guys for all the input. I'll try to do some test tomorrow thats within my capabilities. I'll let you know the results.

Thanks Kyle

 

[Missouri Mule]

I think your looking at return fuel valve( overflow valve) or lift pump (transfer pump).



Do fuel pressure test. Pinch(with fingers or tool) the rubber return fuel line, If pressure comes up your return fuel valve is bad

if pressure stays the same lift pump is bad. For other variables contact Evan A Beck.



Less fuel= less turbo(boost).

 

[dalton4]

Kyle, mine did the same as what you have. The problem was a weak lift pump. A fuel pressure check should be done as previously suggested.

 

[tropical trim]

Gentlemen,

Thanks for all the replies. The mechanic did say that there was fuel pressure. He said that he's 95% sure its the turbo and if its not the turbo ,5% its probably the fuel injector. I Don't really know how to check or do testing on the truck. I have heard alot about gauges. I think I might try to get some installed. What gauges are most important to detect problems or prevent problems for truck. Thanks Kyle

 

[Matt42]

Originally posted by wcjp

I'm not in any way knowledgable about Cummins. A guy I work with had the 1st Gen truck and very similar problem to you. Throttle cable was bad. One week after replacing it his son's 1st Gen also ate the throttle cable.

Kyle: I echo this post. Even some of the 1997s have frayed cables, rare, and not part of the recall.



Also, check the adjustment of the actuating rod that goes between the throttle pivot (where the cable terminates) and the fuel pump. It looks like an adjustable dogleg. The TSM has specific (and simple) directions for adjustment.



I discovered the rod problem when I couldn't pull the Black Canyon grade out of Phoenix above 50 MPH. No black smoke, but no power. Turned out to be a loose rod.

 

[MCummings]

Call Piers,, You can get an HX-40 for about ~$1,400? with any exhaust housing you want (14-16-18) and a 4" Down Pipe From PDR.



Maybe a throttle cable,, but if it is a turbo problem then an HX-40 is a way to go to get more power towing,, Personally the transmission will hold the power of an HX-40 because the power band of the Cummins is moved up in the RPM range,, higher RPM's will help your transmission live longer,, but drivability in town will suffer a little bit because of the lack of low-end power, but a few adjustments on the injection pump and everything should be back to normal.



Hope this helps. ;

Merrick Cummings Jr