Lager tires void Cummins warranty!!

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Originally posted by KatDiesel:
<font color=blue>BigA -
Your right KatDiesel,I've got the 3:54s and 245s. My current GCWR is about 15000. I'm looking at a 5th wheel camper. Thats goin' to put my gcwr at about 18000. BTW too bad you moved,I'm maybe 20 mins from founders
Big A


Well I honestly can't say whether or not its going to hurt your towing ability. It all depends on your "preference" of which RPM's to run while towing.

In reference to Steves above post, he has the 4. 10 gear ratio and he mentions he runs 285's now. His truck started with 215's on the truck with the 4. 10 ratio. Once he went to 285's he is still sitting at a 3. 59 ratio. You will go from a 3. 54 to a 3. 42 ratio (assuming you have the 3. 54 ratio to start with and your stock tires were 245's). 3. 42 really isn't all that bad, but like I mentioned earlier it may not suit your "Towing preferences". If you have the 4. 10 to begin with then your looking at a 3,96 ratio so you'll be fine. I don't recall which gear ratio you have stock.

With where you live its a toss up, I know the terrain there because I used to live in CastleRock. (Founder's Village). How much weight are we talking here? Maybe someone that has done the same "upgrade" will chime in here with actual data on RPM's to help you decide.

Hope I helped explain it some more... ... ... <font size=-2>

[This message has been edited by KatDiesel (edited 10-31-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Big A (edited 11-01-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Big A (edited 11-01-2000). ]

 

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Hmmm... here's a few thoughts for you guys...

I work at a 5-star dealer (sorry for all you out there that hate "us") - but I think the warranty issue is really the way it's interpreted. We *RARELY* decline warranty - mainly for reasons of abuse or neglect... like when the oil is like syrup with the factory filter on it at 34,000 miles... . then the warranty can be restricted (its really the dealer's discretion if he wants to blab to DC that the guy is abusing his truck) - so, in other words, I'd take your fine truck to a dealer that treats you right and fairly. If you brought your truck to us and kept blowing out U-joints every 3,000 miles since you put on your 12-inch lift, we wouldn't restrict your warranty... we'd just say "sorry. . " - and no, we wouldn't screw up the warranty on your fine Infinity radio or wiper motor. Again, I really think it depends on the "attitude" of the dealer... but you are right... most of the newbie service writers really don't have a clue about the warranty.

As for the revs/mile issue, I've been trying to mess with that myself with the DRB III scan tool - it CAN be changed, but only through a small variance... I have 295/75-16's on my truck, and I can't get the revs/mile number low enough to make the speedo/ABS correct due to a built-in limitation of the scan tool software installed by DC. (I'm sure also due to the ability to change mileage accrual) - you just can't change the speedo pinion in the transfer case anymore. .

As for Rednut... . I'm not sure in your case, but when I performed an alignment on my truck (with the 295's on it), the alignment head sensors (calibration windows) would BARELY reach around the tires I have... I'm sure if I had 305's, that I'd have to install smaller tires just to align it, at least on our machine. Maybe that was your dealer's gripe. .

 

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I was at May Madness 2 years ago and was at the technical seminar hosted by the D/C warranty guy <can't remember his name>. He was a 1st class PRI*K. He continually remarked that he was our best friend when it comes to our warranty. Translate to... I'm your worst enemy when it comes to your warranty. He had several arguments with the audience regarding tire size. His position was that by increasing tire size you can and WILL void your warrenty because you affect, not only, odometer readings but emission controls as well. <a federal offence> He stated that diddiling with the odometer in any way <changing tire size> is fraud and as such D/C is within their right to no longer honor your warranty. If this guy is what D/C has to offer to help us protect our warranty... is it any wonder we have problems at the dealers somtimes?
I think, however, that Booster is right. The dealership is the front line to our relationship with D/C. Get on good terms with them... and it will probably be ok, get on their bad side and they can take issue with anything <like tire size> to make it tough on you. I agree, that tire size sould not normally be an issue but dealers are a lot like life... Some you can get along with and others you can't. Rather then loosing sleep over wether your dealer will void your warranty try to help things along by building a good relationship with your dealer. Like buying the truck at the same place you service the truck. No dealer likes it when you drive to Oaklahoma to save a few bucks on the truck and then take it to them because it's convenient for you and then gripe when things don't go your way. Get real!
I do not work at a dealership but I have been in buisness for myself and do take offence at these tactics when they are used for the clear benefit of the consumer. Service, unfortunatly, comes at a price these days. Remember that, when it comes to warranty service and ask yourself if you have done everything possible to foster a good buisness relationship with your dealer.
OK, flame suit on,
-Paul R. Haller-

 

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I was at the dealership that I bought the truck from. I have always tried to have a congenial relationship with the service manager. I did try a different dealer once. They were rated higher by a local consumer organization but still much lower than almost all the independent shops that they rated. Out of 4 repairs done, two had to be redone up to 3 times at the dealer and one I had to finish myself (bolts left loose on rear diff cover). That service manager and I agreed that the mechanic had to have been impared either mentally or physically to have done such poor work. He told me that he was normally one of his best mechanics. I had a hard time believing that after seeing the work that he had done on my truck. Both are 5 star dealers. By the way, I think the 5 star system is really a bunch of balony after all the posts and people I have talked to about the service they have gotten. When I bought my truck, the salesman offered me a free oil change if I brought my dealer servey back and let them fill it out while my oil was changed. He said if that wasn't quite enough incentive I should call the sales manager when I got the servey and see what else they might throw in. I just threw it in the trash when I got it.

Dave.

 

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Originally posted by Big A:
Tlippy, I was thinking of goin' w/ 265s instead of the 245s. Why do you not like the 265s.
Big A

I don't know what you are driving, I am as-uming its a 3500 trans unknown.

my 2500 4x, auto w/ fact 265/75/16 and 354s will turn 2000 rpm in od @75 mph. Its ok on the flats but not enough HP at that engine speed to do any grades so I go into direct @2800 rpm and fuel mileage goes from 9 to 5.
If i had a 340 or less ratio then I would be at less than 2000 rpm @ 75 and severly limited where i could use od. at 2200 rpm @85mph she will pull a grade well, at 2400 @ 95 she will do a fine job.
hope this helps

edit: we have some hills here too.
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2K, 2500,Laramie,Quad,4x4,3:54LSD,auto,reese 15k 5th slider, EISLEY BULL BAR,WESTIN NERFS, TA's,9000's, DD1's, VA(sometimes), boost & elbow, 4", DTT Pac brake controler,VB & TC, Pac Brake, MAG HYTECH, DTT transmission cooler onboard.
pullee #1 26' Arctic Fox 5th
#2 22' car hauler w/ 76 Pinto 392cid or 68 Cyclone GT Cobra Jet FB
NRA,VFW,SASS

[This message has been edited by JNutter (edited 11-04-2000). ]

 

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Kat, Steve had 245s stock... as did TLippy and myself. Steve and I went to 285s, TLippy to 265s.

Booster, prior to adding my Abbott E. R. A. speedometer correction device I was told by a tech. at my local Dodge dealer (where I also purchased my Ram... and have spent countless hundreds of dollars on accessories), the speedometer parameters can only be changed to the largest tire diameter offered on the Dodge Ram (then, 265 on the 1500s).

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, VDO Vision gauges, Dynamat, '00 Sport grille & valve cover, '00 Sport headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc, Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass, Optima Yellow Tops, Bosch 275s, VA CPC, (censored), Aeroquip braided s/s fuel lines, Banks 14 cm2 turbine housing/Big Head wastegate actuator, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , BD V10/Cummins hybrid TC & valve body, BD trans. front pump & PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications

 

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Originally posted by John:
Kat, Steve had 245s stock

When I asked him (I talk to him bout everyday) he said he had 215's stock on the truck. Because I had done the calculations using 245's to start with, then I asked him and he said 215's! Man and I think my 265's are small #ad

 

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You can use the formula for mph-rpm to calculate and decide which gear ratio and tire diameter suits you best. The formula is...
mph X ratio X transmission ratio X 336/ tire diameter.
In my case,
70mph X 4. 10 X . 74 X 336/ 28. 5" =2503rpm.
Use loaded diameter for the tires. Stock 245s are 28. 5" and 265s or 235/85s are about 30. 5".
Our local dealership is more than helpful with speedo re calibration. 245 to 265 can be done in a few minutes. Other tire sizes takes awhile as they drive it to compare to an unaltered truck. Warranty has never been a problem with our dealership. I wish they were all that way.

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98 2500 CC 4X2 12v 5spd 4. 10, -silencer, AFC+20, Edelbrock IAS, VDO gauges
97 Dodge Stratus 150HP
92 Harley Fatboy, Dynojet fuel management, Supertrapp 2-1