%$##@(* Lance cabover strut mounts!!!

[NETim]

Or perhaps the real blame lies with Dodge?



I attempted to install a set of Lance cabover strut mounts tonight on the truck. After drilling and tapping the holes, I naturally went to mount the brackets.



Wasn't I surprised after just getting the 5/16" mounting bolts snug THEY STRIPPED OUT!!!! I couldn't believe it. It wasn't like I was using a great big honking 1/2" breaker bar to tighten them. Just a little 3/8" ratchet.



Am I ever ******. 4 now useless holes in the truck. Actually only two are stripped out. One on each side. I don't think I want to run 'em with only one bolt anyways. I'd probably strip them out too when I got them tightened to a massive 20 ft lbs or whatever I got the others to.



Maybe I can salvage it with some helicoil but there ain't much to get ahold of on that thin sheet metal I guess.



Maybe I should drill the holes a tad larger and tap for a 3/8" bolt then tighten the bolts with a wet noodle.



I wondering even if I do mount the brackets how long they'll hold up given the "strength" of the metal they're bolted to. Jeez!



Dang it anyway!



Tim

 

[DIESELMAN]

If you need to why not just put 'rim nuts' in to set the bolts. The gas struts operate under compression anyway and don't need a lot of torque to secure them.

 

[JWhitcomb]

Ok, I'm confused. Where did you find enough thickness to tap. I am under the impression those things mount to the sheet metal of the fenders. If you found enough meat to tap you should be able to get a heli-coil to work.

 

[NETim]

Well, according to the official Lance instruction set, the metal where the bolts attach is "thick. " (Their words, not mine. ) They also state that because the metal is "thick" that it is recommended that the holes be tapped after drilling.



The metal where I drilled the holes appears to be approx. 1/8" thick. Maybe a tad more.



They include 5/16" self tapping bolts with the kit.



I obviously took their advice and tapped the holes.



I think I'll re-tap the stripped out holes to 3/8" and gingerly torque in 3/8" bolts.



I guess the body sheet metal is pretty soft.



Tim

 

[TowPro]

There are these rivets with threads you can put in the hole.



Here is one type . I see there not listing 5/16 but I know they make them, just not sure where to get them. The larger then 1/4 is to big for the hand tool, they have a threaded tool for installing them.



I use them for mounting things on my Compound Bow. I bet it might actualy hold better then just threads in the metal because there "crimped" into the hole, and leave you with about 1/4" of thread.

 

[NETim]

DOH!

The answer is 5/16" sheet metal screws. The screws supplied by Lance are standard shallow thread machine screws which can't grab like the big threads on a sheet metal screw.



I haven't tightened the sheet metal screws beyond what I can manage with a screwdriver, but at least they tighten up.



Tim

 

[watt]

I also stripped one bolt on each side not soon later after highway bumps other bolts were also stripped . what i did is remove eveything and put a 3/8 inch thick plate already taped to 5/16 under the cowl and held in place with sicon when dryed i reinstalled wipers and plastic and reinstalled brks and bolts . 12,000 miles and so far good

 

[NETim]

sicon or silicon?

Watt,



Thanks for the feedback. I was wondering if a guy could epoxy a piece of bar stock on top of the sheet metal to give the brackets something to bolt to.



I am hoping that the 5/16th sheet metal screws I used will hold. Only time will tell.



My question to you is, is "sicon" a brand or type of adhesive or is it a typo for "silicone?"



Thanks,



Tim

 

[MGordon]

The only solution is to use blind nuts or rivet nuts. The sheet metal is to thin to hold a self-tapping screw or to tap. I learned this in the middle of Wyoming when one of the brackets (installed by Lance dealer) pulled out.



You can get them at McMaster-Carr. Make sure you watch your "grip range" . On my truck, one of the holes goes through three layers of sheet metal, the others go through two layers.

I also trimmed back the plastic molding so that the brackets would be "metal to metal". You don't need a special tool to set them, you can use a bolt and nut to do it.



My advice is to fix them now, don't wait until your in the middle of no where and have to take your struts off.

 

[NETim]

rivet nuts

MGordon,



Yeah, that sounds like good advice. The sheet metal is very soft so I really don't have much confidence in the sheet metal screw fix.



It appears to me anyway, that the front holes go through 3 layers and the rear holes go through 2 layers on my truck. Not much there at all even though Lance warns the installer that the metal is "thick. " I guess maybe it's thick in the RV biz.



Thanks again,



Tim

 

[Boomer II]

Tow Pro has the answer, nut sert is what I've always called them. Anytime you need threads in sheetmetal, that's the way to go.