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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Larry B. super contacts

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oil Leak

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. Installed Larry's super contacts and new plunger in my truck today, really easy insurance for my fuel shut off solenoid. One of my contacts was notched pretty bad already, so I feel even better I did it now. I also cleaned the fuel strainer bowl since the starter was out, boy was that thing dirty, I also enjoyed the diesel bath I gave myself:mad: . All in all a very productive day, tomorrow Mag hytec front cover goes on:D
 
On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard would you rate the install level of the starter contacts K? I've been thinking of installing them since they are cheap insurance. Already had my shut off relay burn the contacts on me. Filed 'em down about 3 months ago and no probs since.



P. S. Gotta trip Mon. thur Thur. but when I get up Fri. GSK's going in!!Oo. Followed shortly by my Ultimate Console!Oo. Oo.
 
The installation is VERY easy! Whole retro takes less than an hour, including removing and re-installing the starter.

Be sure not to lose the "plunger ball" when you take the plunger out. :)
 
Well if 1 is the easiest, then I'd rate it a 2, just for the fact that the starter is not a feather weight part to say the least, coming out, no problem, going back in, ah well, it helps if there are an extra set of hands, which I did not have so after alot of cussing and "breathers" and it went in. It's the second time I removed it so I was ready, I took it off before to change the fuel return line 2 years ago.
 
Tools needed

I just did this to my 96 4x4 and it was very easy.





These will get it out of the truck:

A 1/2" or 13 mm to loosen the battery cables

A battery terminal puller (buy one if you don't have one)

A 7/16 wrench to uncouple the front of the drive shaft. (20 ft-lbs)

A bungee cord to hang it out of the way

An 8 mm open end for the small starter electrical post

A 15 mm open end to remove the main battery cable at the starter

A 10 mm 12 Point box end for the starter mounting bolts

A hammer to help tap on the 10 mm 12 pt.



On the bench you need:

An 8mm open end or socket

A 17mm for the large connecter post

A 15 mm open end to hold the contact bolts





Don'd loose the ball. I smeared a very ultra thin film of grease on the plunger body. Clean all finger oils from the contacts before final assembly. Check the alignment of the two contacts with the new plunger. Get a screen and gasket for the prefilter screen and clean that at the same time. When you tighten the large battery cable at the starter hold the cable so the contact does not turn.



Hope this helps. I know I have a hard time getting up and down to get the right wrenches. I'm dreaming of a garage with a lift.
 
I didn't touch the driveline; had no problem getting to the starter, or getting it out. The top bolt had to be done by feel, but otherwise... :D
 
I did mine in about 30 minutes. I only replaced one contact. I have about 160,000 miles on the truck. I figure about 13,572 starts. The new contact was about 0. 130 inches thick and the old one measured about 0. 050 thick, that is about as much wear as you would want. At the edges it was beginning to get pointed. It would have gone some more though.

If you believe any of that talk from the Prelube pump people that each start without oil pressure is equal to 500 miles then my truck with 13,572 starts has the equivalent of 6,786,000 miles (500 x 13572)
 
The 500 miles per start applies to cold starts. Assuming you had two cold starts a day since 1995 your engine will only have 2,555,000 miles on it. :)
 
Originally posted by got smoke?

On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard would you rate the install level of the starter contacts K? I've been thinking of installing them since they are cheap insurance. Already had my shut off relay burn the contacts on me. Filed 'em down about 3 months ago and no probs since.



Except for twisting off the positive bolt and having to get a new one, it was a piece of cake. Left the driveshaft in place, wasn't a problem.
 
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