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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Last resort

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission F/P gauge problem

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I apologize if this gets a little long but if I'm going to ask for insight on a problem then I believe in being thourough. Here goes.



Late this summer my '02 Dodge; 70,000 miles, developed what I call a dead pedal. It didn't seem to matter weather I was pulling my lawn trailer or driving down the highway. It first happened when I would shift from one gear to another and then accelerate, nothing, I'd clutch it, step on the accelerator a few times and it would come back and run like normal. During this time and everytime its happened since, the engine would run but it just would not accelerate under load. It would accelerate when the clutch was depressed but not like it should.



Well it got progressively worse (more frequent) so I took it to the dealer where the determined it to be a bad lift pump (mind you, I have/had a edge comp on at this time). Fortunately the mechanic didn't mind the aftermarket item (he put it on) and replaced the lift pump (under warranty). About 2 days later it started doing it again. I took it back and the shop said they didn't know or could find the problem. They would call Cummins and get back to me... Not!



So after a few more weeks I took it back and told them the truck was still doing the same thing; I must of described the problem 15 times each time I was there, this time they replaced the throttle control sensor. Again the truck began acting up doing the same thing. Pedal goes dead, clutch it a few times, pump the accelerator too and it starts running fine.



I took the truck on a couple 4 hour drives and once in a while after coming off the interstate and then accelerating onto the next road it would act up but not anything where I thought I wasn't going to get where I needed to go. I begin to think maybe the comp is the problem but before I got around to taking it off I ened up on another 4 hour trip. I'm about an hour outside St. Louis with my cruise set and all the sudden the truck starts slowing down. I go through the whole clutch, pedal thing again and it comes back but it keeps doing this every couple miles down the road. I finally turn around and head for home, get my other truck (95 12 valver) and start back on my drive.



When I get back I remove the comp box convinced it's the culprit. I drive this truck 480 miles (city driving) with no problem. So now I'm convinced the problem is solved and I take it on another drive to my folks. Its 280 miles to my home town and the truck didn't hiccup once. When I'm on my way back home I get about an hour and a half from St. Louis and it starts all over again. I honestly didn't think I'd get home. When it acted up the truck would run 65 mph at WOT on level road and lose speed going up a grade. It occasionally would start running normal but then back to the dead pedal.



I called Cummins here in St. Louis, they said it sounded to them like the lift pump. When I told them it had just been replaced they said it was probably the fuel pump.



Since last monday this truck has been at the dealer. I told the service writer what Cummins thought it was and to keep the truck till it was fixed. I called today to check on its status and they told me they can't find anything wrong with it. I told them that there was something wrong with it or I wouldn't keep bringing it in for the same thing. They said the tech's been driving it and it hasn't acted up. I told them they had my permission to drive it to Kansas City and back and I bet it would act up and probably need towed. They said they'd keep it till it did what I keep telling them it's doing, I said what ever it takes.





Any ideas because I'm getting tired of dealing with this and I know the dealership gets tired of me telling them to check this or that. And as much as I'd hate to take on a new truck payment if comes down to it I will and it will probably be a GMC.





Thanks for taking the time to read this.
 
Did you ever pull the codes from the odometer window using the ignition key 3 on/2 off method? If you have a P0216, that's an injection pump timing error that signals the beginning of the end for your VP-44. The dealer might as well replace the injection pump and be done with it. Now, the Comp could be a problem insofar as warranty is concerned if STAR finds the pump wire is pierced!! :{



Rusty
 
I'd like to think the mechanic checked the codes. He's worked on both my trucks in the past in as far as doing upgrades ;) He also didn't seem to concerned with the VP-44 being replaced even with the wire punctured. Therefore I don't know why they don't just replace it and be done with it. Is there some sort of inspection (other than by the mechanic) that has to be done by Chrysler on those before they'll replace them. If thats the case I'm screwed.



Also, I never hot rodded this truck. The comp box was installed for the pulling of the work trailer, usually set on 3x5 but in the winter months I run it 2x3.
 
I called them Wednesday and the service writer said it had not done what I had described since I had dropped it off. My reply was, why would I keep bringing it in if there wasn't a problem, fill it up with fuel and drive it to K. C. and back and I bet you it will either do it or you'll be calling a tow truck. I then told them to keep it until it does it and they said okay.



Going to call again first of the week and if it's not fixed I'll just go get it and do it myself. I know the mechanic knows the pumps going out and I don't understand why they just don't replace the dang thing. Bad thing is this isn't where I bought the truck and I would of taken it there but last fall when I took it in for a leaky gasket on the trans (5spd) the first thing the mechanic there did was check the pump wire, plus they put 2 dents in the bed and wouldn't fix it, said I waited to long to report it (2 days and thats when I found it). So my faith in them is about nil.



Anyone know a dealer mechanic around here that would fix it on the qt. It may seem like I'm not taking responsibility for the fact I had the comp on there but since these trucks have a documented history of this problem I can hardly believe the comp had anything to do with pump going south. To many guys out there running some sort of box and not having any problems.



By the way whats a remanufactured pump cost. Theres a company here in St. Louis that rebuilds them but I'm going to have to call Cummins to get their name.
 
I had a friend with the exact same problem, the dealer had his truck for 6 weeks. After replacing the LP, the turbo, the Map sensor, and the TPS, They found the injection pump to be the culprit
 
I had the same symtoms with no codes and changed the crank position sensor located behind the starter. One week later, so far so good. This sensor has something to do with the VP44 pump timming.
 
I'm on my way to pick it up now. They can't find anything wrong with it and I'm tired of them driving it all over the place and putting miles on it waiting for it to do what it's doing. I'll do the ignition switch thing to see if any codes show, if not I'll call over to Tommyguns dealership and get it taken care of.
 
Got it home and here's what it showed on the od display. P PCU and P ECU. Have no idea what that is if anything. If someone knows let me know.
 
Well, took it to a second dealer. They called later in the day and advised they coould not find anything wrong with the truck. Their advice was to drive it and when it starts acting up take it to the nearest dealership and have it looked at. I can accept that as long as there is a dealer near by.



Now I'm stuck with a truck I don't have any faith in if I want to take it on a long trip and I can't sell it because I don't want someone else to get stuck with this problem nor will I trade it for the same reason. Guess I'm stuck.
 
i took mine to the dealer 3 times till they replaced the injection pump. Mine did the same and i knew it had to be the pump so i was persistent. New VP=$$$$. i didnt want to replace it after the warranty was up
 
I'm pretty sure thats whats wrong with it too but they won't get rembursed for the pump if the wire has been comprimised. They checked for codes and drove it 14 miles and said they coudn't find anything wrong. Said if the 44 was bad the check engine light would come on.



Anyone know where I can buy a service manual on this thing so I can get it off and have the pump rebuilt.
 
fair is fair you tap the wire, you own the pump..... you cant ask a dealer to replace it when they wont get credit for it with a pierced wire... tough deal... . who ever installed your comp surely told you this before you got hooked up. . if they didnt then they did not do their job properly...
 
Danelle said:
fair is fair you tap the wire, you own the pump..... you cant ask a dealer to replace it when they wont get credit for it with a pierced wire... tough deal... . who ever installed your comp surely told you this before you got hooked up. . if they didnt then they did not do their job properly...



Yep, your right... Tough deal. Now I know you can give a sermon how about telling me where I can purchase a service manual.
 
Where else but EBAY? I just looked and there aren't any specifically for the 2002 ISB. They do tend to show up from time to time.



I just went out and checked for codes on my truck. None as expected. If you get P PCU ------- P DONE and P ECU ------- P DONE you have no codes stored. But I guess you figured that out already.



I need to get my homebrew fuel pressure gauge out and test my lift pump. I know it works because I recently changed my fuel filter, and I can hear it run when I start the truck. I just need to check the output while driving down the road to make sure it's not getting tired.



I have an early Edge box, referred to as the '3 light box' for it's three LEDs, green, amber and red. In-cab control and my pump wire is tapped. The only problem I've ever had was very early on there was an intermittent stumble, like a nibble. . such as when a fish tugs on the line. It went away after I checked all of my connections relating to the Edge box. Never had the problem you're going through and I hope I never do. I don't blame you for feeling compelled to sell it and move on to a GMC (they're nice but the DMax has it's issues too!). From what you've been posting it sounds like you're going to fix it on your own which makes sense because you can't really sell it as is and live with your concience.

Try doing a few www.google.com searches for repair manuals. I'd love to have one of my own. In fact I'm going to do some searching in the next couple days and see what I find. I'll pass along any info if/when I do.
 
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