"yeah but what you are failing to mention here is that chevys engineers did the same thing compare a mid 90's chevy one ton to a mid 90's dodge one ton now we have apples to apples"
I did more than just mention that. I said:
"Chevy guys were more highly motivated to produce a retro-conversion since the accompanying front differentials with the torsion suspension were utterly weak and worthless and had nothing available in the way of lockers or limited slips or suspension travel. Really bad news for serious offroaders.
The Dodge still had a pseudo-Dana 60 (pumpkin only really) solid axle. It is a far cry from the nearly bulletproof axle that made the Dana 60 famous, and Dana Spicer should be ashamed of themselves for agreeing to cheapen and weaken it, but it still beats what Chevy did. "
CTD12V: A well-designed coil suspension can be extremely articulate, but our's is not well-designed. So can leaf springs, though custom coil setups are favored for extreme articulation needed by rock crawlers. My problem with the Dodge setup is mostly with the cheapening and weakening of the Dana 60 axle and the general disregard for serviceability and durability of the steering components. It's almost like they said "We gave you coil springs. Sure, we got in way over our head and screwed it all up, but that's your problem now. "
Dodge, to their credit, did try to address a couple problems in later models, such as an improved trackbar and better designed crossover setup. But they fell far short of being serious about fixing the problems.
I'm collecting all the expensive stuff to make the best of what my Dodge has, but it sure costs alot and I have a long ways to go. I have the steering box brace, the steering column bushing kit, and now a set of 4 adjustable tubular control arms. I still need the 3rd gen adjustable track bar conversion along with replacement ball joints, shocks, and tie rods, etc. I'm taking Cummins98's advice and going with a '98 crossover setup on my '96.
Throw in the cost of the conversion kit to go to one-piece inner shafts and lockouts and taper-bearing hubs and eliminate the CAD, and you are really talking some serious dough! And I'll still be stuck with balljoints...
Literally thousands of dollars in that front suspension to get it anywhere near what it should be! That money could have done a top-notch leaf spring lift/softride kit a couple times over and still left money for engine mods, lockers, gauges, etc. The more glamorous stuff we all love.
In the Motocross racing we do, there is no doubt at all that suspension is everything. Great suspension and stock power will beat humongous power and bad suspension all day long off road given similar rider abilities. It is the same for trucks, so the suspension comes first.
We are fanatical about supertuning our dirtbike suspensions. Way beyond anything that you will ever need to do on a pickup unless you are a very, very serious offroad racer. I revalve the shock and forks and respring my son's racebikes every time he grows 10 pounds or so. We finetune it every race for the track conditions and design. It is amazing what a difference it makes. It is the difference between crashing ugly and winning. No suspension gets worked harder or abused worse than a motocross/supercross bike's, though I put desert race trucks right up there in the same category. Rock crawler's suspension is amazing and tough, but at least it gets to work at slow speeds.
The best suspension tuners are viewed by MX racers as the equals or better of the best engine builders. I happened to get into it myself a few years back due to the benefits of great suspension and the high cost and turnaround time of paying a pro to do it. Besides, no pro tuner has the time to spend watching my son on his bike and seeing what is right and what is wrong in all the many different conditions and repeatedly revalve the suspension to get it near-perfect. It's very time consuming, but it's actually fun to revalve and respring shocks and forks and see and feel the difference your efforts make. So I'm very critical of suspension by necessity and practice. Too bad for Dodge.
I'm not stopping at the front suspension on my Dodge, either. The rear leaf suspension needs work, too. Lift blocks are a bad, cheap shortcut offroad, and come factory on our trucks. The leaf springs are far too stiff with no flex at all. A set of flexy, softride, full-arch springs (no blocks) for offroad and everyday driving would be much better. Augment them as I did my Chevy with Firestone, Ride-Rite, or similar air suspension for perfectly leveled heavy load handling ability, and it will be a much better handling and riding and stopping truck. The best of both worlds.
No factory truck comes with great suspension. But a simple 4-leafs system is much easier and less expensive to upgrade than what we have. With the 1st gen Dodge and old Chevy setups, you did not have to spend anything on the kingpin/lockout/tapered bearing Dana 60 itself. It was already super-tough. Four well-chosen leaf springs and some poly bushings and high quality shocks and steering stabilizer pretty much did it. I added a swaybar quick disconnect and rear air suspension to mine, too. The entire truck done for far less than what just the frontend of the Dodge costs to upgrade. And I guarantee it (my K30) is a pure pleasure to ride in and drive. If you need anything softer or smoother, you need to buy a luxury car and forget about pickups.