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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Leaking Fuel Return & Supply Lines?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel gauge not working.

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Help.

I think I finally noticed why my (96 2500 auto, 158,000) won't start after sitting for 12 hrs. I already changed the lines closer to the engine last year. It seems the return and supply lines on the top of my fuel tank are leaking. I saw fuel dripping under the tank after a back dirt road trip to town. The metal pipes are rusted. I can't determine if they are the leak or something else with the fuel tank connections on top. How do I get to them to confirm? remove the bed? Any help would be great. Snowed today got to get this fixed fast.



Dennis J
 
Dennis I would use a compressor and put about 5lbs pressure on the tank and then see if fuel is leaking anywhere. Never heard of a fuel line rusting through but I guess anything's possible in New England with the long winters & nasty road stuff they use.



The fuel lines from the tank are plastic until they tuck between the tank and frame, then metal from there most of the way to the engine.



Good luck, Vaughn
 
Just wondering how full your tank was. When I first got mine I filled it to the top and it leaked. turned out the big hold down nut on the top of the tank was just loose. Sounds like an air leak somewheres though.
 
well, mine were rusted thru.



the best way , for me to determine if the lines were leaking, was to buy 20 ft of fuel line (generic auto parts stuff) and run it from the tank to the lift pump, bypassing all the old stuff. i did this, and wow, I have power now, and can do more than 70 mph.



the flexible connector line from the tank pickup tube to the hard line on the frame was also crimped 90% shut... probably has been from the factory.
 
Do you think there is a disadvantage to totally getting rid of the metal line and subsituting high grade rubber line from the LP all the way to the tank? When mine go I've been thinking about this, I thought it would eliminate lots of possible air leak scenarios with 1 straight run.
 
Vaughn MacKenzie said:
Dennis I would use a compressor and put about 5lbs pressure on the tank and then see if fuel is leaking anywhere. Never heard of a fuel line rusting through but I guess anything's possible in New England with the long winters & nasty road stuff they use.



The fuel lines from the tank are plastic until they tuck between the tank and frame, then metal from there most of the way to the engine.



Good luck, Vaughn



Vaughn,

Thanks for the info. Spoke to my local Dodge Dealer today, who actually is helpful. He told me the supply/return lines on the fuel tank module is rusted outwhich is what I saw. Fairly common to Vermont trucks. An updated version of the module now has plastic instead of metal. There goes another $500. 00 aprox installed. Dennis
 
Signal73 said:
Just wondering how full your tank was. When I first got mine I filled it to the top and it leaked. turned out the big hold down nut on the top of the tank was just loose. Sounds like an air leak somewheres though.



Tank is a little more than 1/4 full. The fuel tank module is shot. The supply/return metal pipes are rusted and leaking. A new updated version is now plastic. So much for Vermont salt

Dennis
 
GKarpen said:
I replaced the supply and return sides from the tank to the VP44 with marine grade 3/8" supply and 5/16" return I bought from Mr. Bob's distributing. He advertises in the TDR. I bought split loom from Geno's and put that over the lines for added safety. The metal lines do rust along with the line in the tank module. After doing this a few times I can remove the tank in 15 min including pumping it out using my fuel pump. If U have three other people to help you, remove the bed. Salt is nasty on these parts. The marine grade fuel lines are fire rated along with having a inner liner made for fuel.

Can you replace the metal lines on the fuel module without replacing the complete unit? My local Dodge dealer wants about 320. 00 for the new style module +labor. Ouch!

Dennis
 
Time for a junkyard. You saw this first hand?? My lines were chaffing on the frame between the tank and frame. . there was a plastic slip over the frame but it had moved away and let plastic contact metal. I'm still battling the return line. . it's aerating my fuel supply. waiting on the yearly bonus to get aeroquip hose and replace it motor to tank. I already upgraded part of the supply line from the plastic forward. ( I didn't trust the factory braided and push connects. ) If you listen, you should be able to hear the lines with the lift pump surge. . It'll sound like a yard sprinkler.
 
GKarpen said:
Do it yourself and save. You will most likely do a better job and it's easy. Also, other TDR members are making a retro for the old fuel tank modules so U do not have to drop the $400. 00 like i did.





How do I find out about the process to retro fuel tank modules? My dealer wants around 500. 00
 
Djowell said:
Vaughn,

Thanks for the info. Spoke to my local Dodge Dealer today, who actually is helpful. He told me the supply/return lines on the fuel tank module is rusted outwhich is what I saw. Fairly common to Vermont trucks. An updated version of the module now has plastic instead of metal. There goes another $500. 00 aprox installed. Dennis

Well I should have suggested you do what I did. . . replace the stock fuel line with Aeroquip hose. I put a -8an fuel line from the tank to my prefilter inlet and don't use the stocker anymore. I used the braided blue stuff. Cost about $120 as I recall and is 3/8" ID instead of 1/4" like the stock one.



Vaughn
 
pretty easy to change the mod.

Just put mine back together last night. Fuel lines from the Mod. where rusted and leaking. New Mod. from the dealer was $124. 00 with a $20. 00 core charge I also had to buy new fuel line clips from Napa, GM/Chrysler 5/916 & 3/8.



I cut the rusted lines with a pair of side cuts so I could deal with getting the clips out later when the tank was down. Dropped the tank and changing the Mod. was pretty easy dirty but easy. While the tank was down I cleaned it with a degreaser adn the hose. The only retrofit I did was to gegrindhe front strap a little thinner at the top to go back inside the Midship bearing(I ththinknly an ex-cab models). Only place messed up was not to completely drain the tank. It still had a couple gallons (maby 3) in it which made it really hard to get onto a jack to raise into place. 2 guys would have been better.



Good luck

Raz -- email address removed --
 
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If I only had a dry place to work on it. Dirt driveway, dirt barn, 6" of snow/mud at the farm. Country living has some draw backs.
 
2 guys could do fast

If you gotta place to pull it in 2 guys could prob. do in about 45 mins. Just my 2 cents

PS: Did mine in heated garage, cable TV with surround sound. Makes it kinda hard to get any work done when a race comes on :)

raz
 
RCrocker said:
If you gotta place to pull it in 2 guys could prob. do in about 45 mins. Just my 2 cents

PS: Did mine in heated garage, cable TV with surround sound. Makes it kinda hard to get any work done when a race comes on :)

raz



I'll be down. I'm jealous. I guess I'll just have to get my wife to help me. So much for supper tonight.
 
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