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Leaking oilpan plug

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I tried searching for anything on this, but no luck.

Has anyone had a problem with a leaking oilpan plug? I have spots on my driveway because of it, it's not the blow-by tube. I changed my oil yesterday, cranked it down TIGHT, and still this morning I have a large spot on my driveway, biggest one so far, right under the drain plug with drops of oil ready to drip off. This is getting irritating, there's no damage to the pan or plug, so what can I do? #ad


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'97 2500 CC SLT 4x2, B5. 9, NV4500HD, 3. 54s, slid torque plate, no silencer ring
'98 Jeep Cherokee
'47 Willys CJ-2A, 302 v8, auto, 5. 38s, locked and ready to ROCK.
 
Hogan, By far the best accesory I've added is the EZ drain plug. Available through Geno's Garage. You need to buy the plug and the drain tube separately for around $48 Once installed, you won't need any tools and with the drain tube it's easy to drain the oil directly into a catch can. I use an old 5gal kerosene can, then take it directly to recycling. Trust me, you'll love it. Todd
genosgarage.com
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97 2500HD 4x4 ST 12v, K&N, 16cm turbine housing, recalibrated pump, Geno's man trans filter, McLeod dual disc clutch, LSD with 3. 54's and Amsoil, AGR power steering box and pump, Borgeson steering shaft, Skyjacker 2" leveling kit, Rancho RS9000's, dual RS5000 steering stabilizers, AR Outlaw II wheels with 33x12. 5 Bridgestone Desert Duellers, Lund visor, Ventvisor window shades, Glasstite HiRise cap, aluminum tailgate protector, illuminated bumper guide poles, Cobra CB, Wilson 5000 antenna, Alpine CD, Infinity spkrs, Fosgate amp with 8" Bazooka tubes, Hayes elec brake controller and Husky floor liners. 16. 247 @ 87. 52mph quarter mile at 6700lbs

[This message has been edited by the terminator (edited 03-29-2001). ]
 
Unless you want to change your oil again or try the shop vac trick, you are out of luck till next time. Next time replace the sealing washer and check carefully that the area near the plug hole doesn't have a hair line crack, possibly from overtightening. In the meantime make sure the leak isn't coming from elsewhere, the oil will naturally travel to the plug area since it is the low point. A good easy, way to check for where an oil leak is coming from is to clean the area then spray it with aerosol athletics foot power, oil trails show up well in it.
 
Get the EZ drain plug from Geno's.
Best replacement for my money.

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'97 2500 4X4 club cab, BLACK, Leer XL-100,running boards , cup smoothie, EZ Drain, 103,000 miles
 
Ok, just ordered the EZ plug and hose, the other one had me concerned about ground clearance. Being a 2wd truck that tows my Jeep to off-road places and does see dirt, I'd rather not risk it. #ad
Hopefully this will fix my issue.

On a side note, I poured the old oil back into the bottles so I could drop them off at a recycling center. Anyway, as far as I can tell, I collected about 9. 25 qts, filter included. I'm sure some was left in my drain pan and such. 6000 miles since last change, no top off (Was still well within the safe range on the dipstick). This is also my first oil change since I bought the truck, has 133k miles on it. As far as I can determine, this is about what the consumption should be between changes? Didn't reek of diesel fuel or anything, either, which is good.

Thanks for the advice on the plug, guys. #ad


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'97 2500 CC SLT 4x2, B5. 9, NV4500HD, 3. 54s, slid torque plate, no silencer ring
'98 Jeep Cherokee
'47 Willys CJ-2A, 302 v8, auto, 5. 38s, locked and ready to ROCK.
 
I had that happen and ended up being the washer. Replaced that and all was well...

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1997 3500 SLT, Ext cab, 5spd, TST #11, GV Aux Trans, BD exhaust, Kelderman Air Ride, 60 Gallon fuel tank, Clifford Security, Reese 20k 4way 5th wheel hitch, Boost/EGT gauges, K&N air filter, Rancho RS9000 shocks, Brush Guard, DZee full length running boards.
 
I agree the EZ drain plug is great! I had a hard time getting the fitting tight enough(it's pretty flush with the pan). It takes, I believe, a 30mm socket + I ended up using an o-ring as well.

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95 Blue 2500 4x4,3. 54,33x12. 5x16. 5 tires,catless,BD trans. cooler,Pacbrake,gauges-trans. temp,boost, pyro;high power cam plate ?Bosch?slid forward,afc adjusted some
96 Alfa SeeYa 30RK
 
I had the drain plug seperate, the head pulled off the threads and I only noticed it when I thought I had pulled the threads in the pan. The head of the drain plug keep on turning and the plug would not get tight. I removed the plug and machined the threads and welded on a nut it with 7018 and remachined the nut so the gasket would seal. I also use antiseize on the threads and the seal.
 
Hogan,

Consider sending out a sample of your oil next time you change it for analysis. The peace of mind you get from a clean report is more than worth the price. You will get an early warning of potential problems and possibly head them off before permanant damage occurs. One of the best investments you can make for your engine.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.
 
are you using the revised drain plug seal/washer? (Mopar part #04882049)

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'95 2500 SLT 5 speed 4x4
 
Originally posted by Hogan:
Ok, just ordered the EZ plug and hose, the other one had me concerned about ground clearance. Being a 2wd truck that tows my Jeep to off-road places and does see dirt, I'd rather not risk it. #ad
Hopefully this will fix my issue.

On a side note, I poured the old oil back into the bottles so I could drop them off at a recycling center. Anyway, as far as I can tell, I collected about 9. 25 qts, filter included. I'm sure some was left in my drain pan and such. 6000 miles since last change, no top off (Was still well within the safe range on the dipstick). This is also my first oil change since I bought the truck, has 133k miles on it. As far as I can determine, this is about what the consumption should be between changes? Didn't reek of diesel fuel or anything, either, which is good.

Thanks for the advice on the plug, guys. #ad


Just a foot note about the E-Z drain plug. the drain part which sticks up into the oil pan will not allow all the oil to completely drain out of the engine. I remove mine every 3rd drain to stop any kind of sludge build up on the bottom of the oil pan.
 
I had the local quick lube place change my oil and they cross threaded the drain bolt very easy to do. Tried replacing just bolt and washer no go. Anyway they said it was messed up when they got it, bunch of back and forth so I ended up paying for it. You must either pull engine or transmission to replace oil pan. transmission was cheaper and while I was at it I had upgrade Dun-Rite TC installed. Major frustrations with this and major cost too. About 500 bones plus the TC.

Oh well it sent me down the bombing ave so maybe life it not so bad afterall.

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Eric Kelcher
92 W250 stock 4spd/auto 3. 54
96 2500 extd SLT Diesel Dynanics fuel pump plate; auto with DD shift kit(?) Dun-Rite TC; 3. 54 posi; K&N airfliter; Boost, transmission temp, EGT guages waiting for nice day; 192K
13. 5k 33'utility trailer 19' Galaxie runabout
 
I just put a real light coating of Copper Plus RTV sealant on the drain plug every oilchange. Ultra Blue works too. Mine leaked one time, I replaced the sealing washer and it still leaked. But the RTV dried it up. DONT USE VERY MUCH.
DENNY... .
 
"are you using the revised drain plug seal/washer? (Mopar part #04882049)"

How is the revised drain plug different from the original plug?
 
Howdy everyone,just thought i would add my . 02 i got my drain plug from gino's as well but i got the other version the finger touch [lever type]it is to cool,so easy to change oil now it is actually a pleasure,oh by the way,you guys that live in those cold climates have you heard about waste oil furnaces ? yes thats right,you can burn all your drained oil,trans fluid,diff grease and practically anything you can light with a match including cooking oil & oil base paint. these furnaces are not yet approved for homes but are perfect for shops,I just got some info about them and have talked with one of the salesmen,great idea,specs say they use about . 85 of a gallon per hour but you can also tweek pump if you know what to do. I may get one for my shop to play with,the problem is some areas will not approve,I guess if they don't know I have one it's no big deal,salesman says they give off no smoke,I am a mechanical contractor and have installed all kinds of systems and I can't wait to try one of these,if any of you have one please drop me a thread,thanks, jdmjoe,member

[This message has been edited by Joe (edited 04-07-2001). ]
 
I used to do what Dr. Evil does. Mine still used to drip even with a NEW plug and NEW gasket. The good rubber coated metal gasket from the dealer. I thin coat of Ultra blue on both sides of the gasket seals it up good.


If you have ever fractued a plug from over tighening it, the sealing surface on the pan gets a little distored. Its hard to see , but I can notice it. I never got a good seal after I broke my first plug.


I finally got tired of that and got the Finger Touch oil drain valve from Genos'. Even that plug got a new gasket & ultra Blue too. #ad




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 04-07-2001). ]
 
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