Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Leaking Transmission Lines

[J Shocik]

Hi, It's my turn at one of the infamous "problems" our beloved CTD's has. I'm finding transmission fluid leaking at what I believe is the quick connect fittings, as I'm finding the telltale spots in the driveway under the front on the motor. I don't believe this to be a transmission pan gasket leak.



Since this is a common problem on our CTD's, I'm wondering if there is someone or some company that makes replacement transmission lines that bolt up like OEM lines? I've done some research in past posts, finding OEM replacement lines to cost over $300. 00. Thanks, John

 

[Lsfarm]

Quick connect??

I'm pretty sure the only 'quick-connect' fittings on your truck would be where the rubber lines go from the ATF/air cooler next to the driver side headlamp connect to the steel lines that parallel the left side of the engine. And those fittings rarely go bad.



The molded rubber lines from the cooler to the steel lines are the expensive part of the cooler line setup. The rubber lines retail for about $80 each!! this is because of the special fitting on the end and the fact that they are molded with two turns or curves so they won't kink.



If in fact you have the earlier style 'quick-connect' lines, then instead of a hex-wrench nut / flare fitting at the trans you will have two plastic ears on the sides of the cooler line or a clip or 'hairpin' type arrangement holding the line into the fitting threaded into the trans case.



I just looked at my '97 and the lines are the later design with the hex-nut flare fittings. These are the original lines I'm sure.



If the connection between the rubber hose and the steel line is where the leak is, then you may want to replace the rubber lines only, or as a last but much less expensive resort cut off the end of the steel line and put in regular high temp trans cooler rubber hose. DON'T use fuel line. It isn't designed for the heat and pressure. Use two clamps on each hose for safety.



Take a look under the truck and make sure where the leak is, like I said the connectors rarely leak, the leaks usually are worn-through steel lines from chaffing on the clamps, loose flare fittings or lines chaffing against each other.



The full replacement of the Quick connect lines is pretty expensive, but if you are towing a lot and have high ATF temps, then it is well work the expense. Have you ever paid for a towing bill on one of our trucks?? A forty mile tow will cost the same as the line replacement, and the trans is safe, not damaged from running out of ATF.



BTW Check your ATF level, if it is dripping on your parking spot, then it is dripping a lot more as you drive down the road. Even a half quart low can cause lots of problems with a stock trans!! Idling in neutral, at or near top of full full line .



Check your PM's for a message.



Hope this helps. Greg L

 

[CEdwards]

If you want to save money and make them better than factory you could use hydraulic hose. pipe threads on every connection except you will have to adapt to hose clamp at the cooler. had napa make mine up much cheaper than the dealership.

 

[SDrake]

My lines, on a 94 automatic, wore through at the clamps to the engine. After finding out that because of redesigns I would have to replace all fittings and hose to the tune of over $300 I simply refused to let Chrysler profit over their mistakes and cut the metal tubing (tubing cutter to avoid making chips) at the leak, clamped power stearing hose, perfict fit, from the cut to the cooler, both supply and return lines. Less than $10 worth of hose and clamps. I did this as a temporary fix until I verified that the hose would take the pressures and temps. For the first time since the truck was practically new there are no wet transmission line fittings on my truck.



The OD of the metal tubes is precisely 1/2". 1/2" ID Power steering hose is common. Will the power steering hose do for the long haul or do I need to find something else? I want to settle this before I make go away from home base.

 

[ballpeen]

mine failed on a long trip........

much thanks to a napa somewhere in nebraska for letting me jack it up right there and fix it. nothing like making new lines out of soft copper tubing while layin in gravel. luckily i had my flare kit with me. i later replaced the lines with hydraulic lines i made at work. made up some brackets to hold them. my copper lines served me well for a year before i got around to fixing it right. it was not fun. but i got it done for cheap and was back on the road in a few hours. i know it wasn't my trucks fault. just too many over educated engineers with there heads up their you know what. in order to stay half clean as i had another 10 hours of driving ahead of me. i wore my coveralls, it was 70 degrees. boy it did suck bad now that i think of it. i looked at all possibilities and i felt the hydraulic lines were the best option. they work great for derbie cars too.

 

[ballpeen]

need to add that the real problem with the bogus quick connects is the square cut o rings. they are not available, after years of cycling hot and cold they fail. you have no choice but to replace the whole shebang. what is hard to believe is that after 50 years of the old reliable flare fitting, they would attempt such a stuped thing.