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Leaky oil plug tips?

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Stripped Pyro install

K&N Re-0880 or Psychotty

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I had a coupon for a free oil change at my local 5 star, and against my better judgement I let them do the change. And then the oil plug started leaking. The monkey that put the oil plug back in must have had huge biceps because I needed a big breaker bar and a 3/8 adapter to get the plug back out. When I did, I found that it had been 'cone shaped' from being over tightened. I am really surprised he didn't break the collar off.

Anyway, bought a new plug and gasket at Cummins and can't get it to seal either. I am afraid the pan might be slightly warped now.

My plan B is to get the two part oil plug from Geno's and try to seal the female plug to the pan with RTV permanently (on the outside, of course - still using the regular gasket on the inside. )

Anyone have any better ideas???

-Vic
99 QC SB 2wd 6spd
Now with a slight drip thanks to my local 5 star dealer.
 
I had that problem on my '95. After several trips to the dealer and different drain plugs installed. I still had a leak. I ended up using a small bead of rtv silicone on the drain plug and that solved the problem.
I bought a magnetic drain plug for my '01. I put it on the other day it takes a 1 1/8" socket, no leaks.

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2001 RAM H. O. 6Sp 2500 SLT 4x4 QC, 4WDisc, 4. 10 LS, Fog Lights, Silence Ring Gone, Autometer Pro Comp 60# Boost & Pyro, Banks High Ram (Red), Cummins Red V. C. , K&N RE-0880, Skyjacker 2. 5 lift Class 2, 7218 Dual steering stabilizers, DT Pro Fab Trackbar(sweet), EGR Flares (nice fit), Centerline Comet III 16x9. 5 with Goodyear MT/R 315/75R16, Smittybuilt SS nurf bars, ExTang BlackMax tonno, Jardine Exhaust W/5" SS tip, " DON'T LET FEAR STOP YOU"
 
Vic
You are right about the cause. On some trucks, when the plug is overtorqued, it distorts the sealing surface of the pan. I had this happen on my 96. I was advised by another owner to install a second flat gasket between the factory gasket and the pan. I have been doing this for about two years now and the plug never leaks. I cut the gaskets out of a sheet of cork material using the plug flange as a template (I cut it slightly larger than the flange). I then punch out the center with a sharpened piece of 3/4" copper pipe. I put the whole thing together, torque to 25 ft/lbs, and forget about it until next time.

Bob
 
I have no idea why these people tighten their plugs so tight! When I went to take my plug out for the first oil change last year, I needed a 18" breaker bar to get it loose. When putting it on myself, I use a 10" socket and make it as "pretty tight" with the 10" handle. No leaks yet, and I've never replaced the sealing washer either.

Greg

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Y2K Dodge Cummins QC 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 Long Bed, 4. 10/Auto, Forest Green/Driftwood, 265x75R16 Michelin LTX, 6 speaker CD, Camper/Tow/Plow Packages, Westin Black Nerfs, Mopar bedliner, Ultra bright diamondplate toolbox, K&N Filtercharger, Autometer Ultralite EGT and Boost gauges in 2-gauge pillar w/tweeter, DD Stage II injectors, boost module, and boost elbow. Yee haw!
http://www.rints.com/hammond for photos!
 
I got the heavy duty drain plug from Genos, really niceley made, you will never distort the collar on it. As for the pan being bent, i would go back there and raise hell, have them put a new oil pan in. Otherwise, you will be stuck using flat washers and thick gaskets.
 
The things that are likely to get messed up when they pull the transmission to replace the pan would make me want to fix it myself, if they can't do an oil plug right how can you expect them to be able to remove a transmission?
 
Put the new plug in with both the old and new washers, snugged it down, and it seems to be leak free now. Thanks for the tip.

-Vic
99 QC SB 2wd 6spd.
 
Vic, I see you have a '99 6-speed... I hope you realize what a gem you got, as there were only 1,500 '99 6-speeds built, with the vast majority of them being 4wd. #ad
 
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