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That is usually the seal. If the rest of the pump is OK, it didn't send oil back through the tubing. Unfortunately, most of the time a new seal doesn't take care of the leak, so you are lucky that this $700 part is being replaced under warranty.
I agree that I am very lucky!! My mechanic happened to notice it while he was doing an oil change for me. He was honest enough to tell me before my 3 yr. 36 warranty is up ( in less than 2,500 miles ). I know he would make more if he had waited a month to tell me and I had to pay cash.
He also told me that there is an updated pump with an updated seal that I will be getting .
I just had my 2001 80,000 miles back into the dealer for an oil leak. I had my injection pump replaced 3 monthes ago and figure it was something to do with that. Dealer called me today and said vacuum pump-$1015 plus other parts+labor was $1500 no warranty. I took my truck and had to pay 73 for the diagnosis. Where can I find an aftermarket pump or a less expensive pump??
My mechanic told me that he heard you could get a vacuum pump from Cummins for $400. But neither of us has actually heard this first hand, it was something he just heard from someone else. Still, definately gotta check Cummins.
When I was looking for a seal kit, Cummins MetroPower of NJ gave me a name of a company that sells rebuild kits & rebuilt units... Precision Equipment (800) 325-2690. The kit for my 96 was priced around $100. 00 - a lot less than a new one at the dealer or even cummins. If you only need to replace the seal then PM CPFF and get one of his kits. I just needed a seal so I went to CPFF... So I don't have any experience with Precision Equip.
Try the seal its cheap and it may work for you. It has worked for me. Be careful to deburr the pump coupler before reassembly. Maybe mine has worked because I put in a new PS pump. Even if I had to try that I would before spending $$$$ on a new unit.
The pump was only about $75 at NAPA and so far it has worked fine. Get a couple of extra seals and o-rings from CPFF just incase. I had to do mine a second time because of a nicked seal when I did it the first time. The second time it was in and out in under an hr not counting bench time. Get a 18mm flare nut wrench, and an 18mm flarenut crowfoot (they are hard to find locally around here I had to order one) then you can drop the lines off at the steering gear and make life easy on yourself. The lines are also pretty reasonable at NAPA so you may want to have a set on hand just incase. For sure you should get the return line and some clamps. A 15mm crowsfoot will allow you to disconnect the oil line at the block side if the brass adaptor in the bottom of the pump gets rounded off. The brass adaptor is cheap at cummins. Remove you intake pumping and bring it out from the top.
I would buy the parts and the tools and make a run at it... the potential savings it good.