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I have LEDs in my pillar gauges, same ones that Chris does but they are red. Never had an issue with the switch getting hot and I can dim them down as much as I want. They wont go out but they dim enough to where I cant see the gauge at night.
I can dim mine from 100% to OFF. I have full instrument cluster,pillar pod, ashtray and cupholder. NO ISSUES. Again I have the blue ones and they are easier on the eyes even @ 100% max.
Gentlemen,these are very nice. Install requires 20 min. and a phillips screwdriver. I have YET to hear anyone that is NOT SATISFIED with this product. I love the look and the LED seems to be MORE reliable than standard bulb. Im all about "do it right,the first time"
The resistor is used to shunt the voltage to the lights... it is in parallel with the lights, not in series... so as you dim the lights, the more power is being consumed by the resistor to drop that voltage (giving dimmer lights), which in turn is released as heat.
When the lights are on bright, there is very little power being consumed by the resistor. Therefore, there is no heat being emitted from the resistor.
games, did u get your answer? from 2 users? ive had nothing but complements on this kit and i wouldnt sell it if it was junk.
think of a flasher unit. when u install leds the thermal flasher becomes nonexistant, because theres no resistance in the flasher to create heat to make a thermal flasher to work. so u have to go to electronic flasher or load resistors. same idea.
There's good bbq in nearly every small town. If you get down this way give me a holler. I'm not home about 200 days out of the yr, but that leaves the other 165.
hi all,does anyone know if 2nd gen. light kits are available?the last part of this thread was a`while back. the lighted needles look good. i wonder if i could
put them in my autometer ultralight gages as`well as all cluster gages?does anyone have his number or website?thanks,mike
God help me but here comes another physics lesson.
The dimmer and the bulbs (or LEDS) must divide 12V (actually 13. 8 running?) between them. At low light setting more of the rheostat windings are in series with the 'lamps' so the rheostat 'drops' more of the voltage leaving less available to the 'lamps' - but they ALL have the same current (see title)
Ed = voltage drop Ohms Law
I = current Ed = I•R
R = resistance
for a given R setting the the rheostat, if the bulbs draw less current (they are LEDS) there will be LESS voltage drop across the rheostat and MORE voltage available to the 'lamps'> If the LEDs drew no current there would be no voltage drop across the rheostat!!
This is why the LEDs will not dim as much as bulbs.
If that bugs you, a variable voltage regulator could replace the rheostat- giving 0 - 12 volts while current independent - even if there was no current.