LED Headlight Bulbs

[jdross440]

I bought a pair of xenonpro.com H13 (9008) LED bulbs and anti-flicker modules for my 2007.5. When I install them as long as the truck isn't running the lights stay on, I left them on 5 minutes. When I start the truck and turn the lights on, they will come on a few seconds and then one will go out and a few seconds later the other will go out. After a time (10-20 seconds) one or both will come back on then the cycle starts again of going off. I have been discussing this with xenonpro. They had me take the flicker modules out and try them. Same thing happened. They say it's not their bulbs as they come on, which I already knew. The guy talked to his manager and they said I could sent them back as long as they are in new condition. However to get them to latch into the factory connectors I had the trim the vertical guides as they were bottoming out in the grooves in truck connector. So now I have to eat them. Any suggestions on how I might be able to get them to work. I know the TIPM is doing this because of difference in the power draw vs original bulbs.

 

[EDankievitch]

What voltage are you showing at the lamp? maybe it's too high or the lamp is overheating?

 

[jdross440]

13.9 volts. They have built in fans for cooling and they aren"t staying on long enough to overheat. I believe the current draw is too far below what the TIPM is looking for and it is shutting power off to the socket. Then it is resetting and turning them on again and the cycle begins again. They are 45 watt lamps where the factory bulbs are 55 and 60 watt. I have seen on a post somewhere may have to add a resister to load the circuit but I don't want to do that-a good failure point. After I bought these I have seen where xenonpro is not customer friendly-they are in Canada-and I believe it. Their website has a function where you put in your vehicle and it picks the lights that work with it, but in this case they don't.

 

[lpennock]

You get same problem with hid. You need load resistors.

 

[Morsed]

The problem is the lamp out system. The TIPM sends a low voltage through the light and needs to read .5 watts resistance, I believe. If the resistance is too low the TIPM will turn the power off, then after a short time it will try again, hence the on off scenario. When I tried to put relays on my 03 I had to place a resistor on each filament to fool the TIPM into leaving the power on. this will be for the case for relays, HIDs and /leds alike. good Luck

 

[lpennock]

It isn't a low voltage, it is current sense. To little or to much current the TIPM shuts off the voltage.

 

[brods]

The problem is the lamp out system. The TIPM sends a low voltage through the light and needs to read .5 watts resistance, I believe. If the resistance is too low the TIPM will turn the power off, then after a short time it will try again, hence the on off scenario. When I tried to put relays on my 03 I had to place a resistor on each filament to fool the TIPM into leaving the power on. this will be for the case for relays, HIDs and /leds alike. good Luck

It isn't a low voltage, it is current sense. To little or to much current the TIPM shuts off the voltage.

I'm not being a smartass, isn't that what he said? Measuring resistance is the same as measuring current, no?

 

[lpennock]

I'm not being a smartass, isn't that what he said? Measuring resistance is the same as measuring current, no?

My comment was about the statement it used a low voltage which it does not. Current and resistance are related by R=E/I but the ECU actually measures the current rather than the resistance. The ECU knows the voltage and current, it would need to calculate resistance, by checking current the calculation is eliminated.

 

[brods]

If I understand what you are saying then the ECU is sending battery voltage to the bulb and limiting the current so the bulb does not illuminate. I've measured 9.27 volts at the bulb sockets when the bulbs were not supposed to be lit and I assume from your comments that the reason it is only 9 volts is because of the current limiting by the ECU. Is that accurate?

 

[lpennock]

9v open circuit is a artifact of electronic switches. Their output voltage floats up if there is no ground path. A volt meter is effectively a open circuit. Put a 10k resistor or smaller across the terminals and the voltage should drop to zero.

 

[brods]

So if it drops to zero then how is the ECU sensing the bulb filament if zero voltage is being applied?

 

[lpennock]

So if it drops to zero then how is the ECU sensing the bulb filament if zero voltage is being applied?

It checks for bulb out when lights are on not constantly. That is why they will come on and then shut off when you turn on the switch. The exception is day time running light's which check high beam constantly and low beam when you turn on headlights. If you measure the voltage on high beam circuit with DRL and a bulb installed you will measure about 9v but it is actually pulse width modulated 14.5v.

 

[brods]

Thanks, I think I get it. It reminds me why I dislike electronic stuff so much.

While searching to understand how the ECU senses bulbs being burnt out the Ram bodybuilding site came up a few times with information for using LEDs with different years. It is interesting to see how they changed things over the years. Here is the one covering 2006 to 2012 trucks: http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2012/docs/cc/dddpextlitmod.pdf

Modifying the exterior lighting of the Ram truck starting with 2006 Model Year The Ram truck has been designed and developed using standard incandescent lights. These lights are controlled by a computerized module called the “Totally Integrated Power Module” (TIPM). This module controls the left front, right front, left rear and right rear lighting independently. The TIPM utilizes “smart” technology that has the ability to monitor the current (amp) on some of the lighting outputs. These monitored outputs include the headlamps, turn lamps, stop lamps and reverse lamps. The module is able to detect both electrical short and open circuit conditions. The module has a preset allowable current (amp) operating range for each of these outputs. If while in normal operation the current detected falls outside this preset range, then a fault is set in the module. In the case of too high of current the circuit will be shut off. This fault condition will remain true until the current level falls back into the normal range. In the case of the turn lamp circuits, if the module detects too low of current then the module will assume an open circuit condition (burned out bulb) and the blinker will flash at a double flash rate. This detection is in place to assist the customer in determining if there is an active short in the lighting circuit or a burned out bulb (open circuit). You can also get into these fault conditions by adding additional lamps to the circuits or by changing the lamp specifications (i.e. changing the type of lamp used). This would include, but is not limited to, the use of L.E.D.’s. By using them you run the risk of causing lighting faults or loss of lighting functionality. The question then becomes, “can you use L.E.D. lighting on the 2006 and beyond Ram trucks”? The answer is yes, but special care and procedures need to be followed to use L.E.D.s successfully. Use of L.E.D. lamps in conjunction with the original equipment incandescent lamps: If you are keeping the original incandescent lamps (or the aftermarket equivalent) and you want to add additional L.E.D. lamps for use as stop, turn, reverse or park lamp function you can do so with no additional changes to the vehicle or its electrical system. Use of L.E.D. lamps without the original equipment incandescent lamps: 2011 and earlier In order to use L.E.D. lamps in place of the original incandescent lamps you * must use a resistor that approximates the original lamps resistance. For the stop/turn function on the 2007/2009 Ram truck that would be a 9 or 10 ohm, 50 watt resistor wired in PARALLEL with the L.E.D. lamps. It should be capable of surviving exterior exposure on the vehicle with consideration for vibration and expected life cycle. As power resistors get hot under normal operation it is suggested that they be placed in an area with adequate ventilation and heat dissipation. It is further suggested that the resistor be located very near the L.E.D. lamp. This is to help with any future service related maintenance or repairs to the lighting circuits or lamps.
*Or use method for 2010-2011 shown below.

2010 – 2011 Only Alternatively for 2010 -2011, the Ram dealer has the ability to turn “off” bulb out detection for the rear stop & turn lamps. This is accomplished by having a Dealer add the sales code “LBQ” to the vehicle configuration file in the TIPM module. By doing so you will not need to add any resistors to the lighting circuits to prevent a fast flash or lamp out warning.

2012 A new added wire eliminates the error code and fast flash when LED lights are used. This wire is light green with a white tracer (L950 LG/WT). This wire (and four other wires) are coiled and terminated with black heat shrink tubing on its end. It is located on the driver side fender inner, to the left and slightly lower than the auxiliary power distribution center. This is the small fuse and relay box located behind the driver’s side battery. Permanently grounding it allows its function to be actuated. I.e., attach the light green wire with the white tracer to a permanent ground and the light out error and fast flash will stop. This is the same location as the PTO transmission control wire (K427 OR/LG) and the hard wired remote start wire ( T754 DG/GY) have been since the start of 2011 chassis cab production. To allow better temporary access to these wires, you may pull the auxiliary power distribution center box off of its metal bracket (by releasing the two tabs at the front of the box).

 

[Clandest1ne]

On my 2012 I had a issue of relay buzzing and the dealer jumped the driver headlight to the passenger side because something blew out the tipm any way buzzing relay and lights not being consistent and a lot of research I found if you add a 220 microfarad 35 volt inline it will solve most issues with the headlight

 

[smittyd174]

Not sure if that year has the canbus system.If it does you will need canbus modules to make them work.Not a big deal not that expensive and they should be plug and play.Google headlight revolution and it will explain all this.

 

[lpennock]

On my 2012 I had a issue of relay buzzing and the dealer jumped the driver headlight to the passenger side because something blew out the tipm any way buzzing relay and lights not being consistent and a lot of research I found if you add a 220 microfarad 35 volt inline it will solve most issues with the headlight

Had same issue on my 2010 Town and country. Used about the same size shut cap to bypass off the ac.

 

[algonaman]

I had this problem and trying several different resistors, and even some specific to Dodge canbus modules, I still had no luck on my 2006. No fans on the LED's I tried. My tail lights are LED and they don't confuse the TIPM.

 

[jdross440]

I have ordered a module with resisters and capacitors that is supposed to work. If that doesn’t work I will give up and try to mount some LED driving lights. Not much place to mount on this series truck.

 

[RollOver_Pete]

Had the same issue with my 06.
Tired of blowing money on oem junk bulbs with a 400 hr. life span.

This solved all of my LED issues. Im thinking about going this route to bypass the TIPM at the trailer plug.
It was an easy fix and something I should have done years ago.

http://a.co/7up3FBy


Here are the lights I went with. Huge improvement over stock. !00% happy with this LED's.

http://a.co/8s7V56o

 

[algonaman]

Had the same issue with my 06.
Tired of blowing money on oem junk bulbs with a 400 hr. life span.

This solved all of my LED issues. Im thinking about going this route to bypass the TIPM at the trailer plug.
It was an easy fix and something I should have done years ago.

http://a.co/7up3FBy


Here are the lights I went with. Huge improvement over stock. !00% happy with this LED's.

http://a.co/8s7V56o

But that wiring harness says it's for H4 bulbs, not H13 like the trucks use and you linked for LED's here. I tried the resistor in line, no luck, tried another plug and play, again not good results.