LED Replacements for Standard Bulbs

[tugboatphil]

OK. So there are now LEDs available to replace standard auto bulbs (1156, 1157, 194). They are much lower amperage than bulbs, so would this bypass our problem with light switch burnout? They have a significant cost to replace all, but I've had to replace my last two light switches while on the road, after dark.



http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_prods.htm



What'd ya think?

 

[wtrenholm]

They would certainly reduce current through the light switch, which will reduce the heat. They state the parking light filament draws 40mA, a standard 1157 draws about . 6A. So 4 LED1157's would only draw . 16A compared to 2. 4A. They sound pretty neat, I think I need to buy some to check them out.



Another method of saving the light switch is to install a relay and use the light switch to energize the relay.



Wayne

 

[tugboatphil]

Another method of saving the light switch is to install a relay and use the light switch to energize the relay.

I'm too lost beyond "red to red and black to black" for that.

 

[bgilbert]

Now those are sweet. I might have to replace every light on my truck with those. Thanks for the link.

 

[Case500D]

Hi Phil,



Those lights are pretty cool. You might also consider adding a relay on your running lights. I got a 30A relay from Radio Shack for about $20. Install time was about an hour. Only one good burn with the soldering gun. :{ But no fires. The relay will run all of the lights on my flatbed and gooseneck. If you are coming up this fall we could install one then.



Jeremy

 

[TKingsbury]

If one of you guys does put LEDs in, make sure to get a no-load flasher. If you try to use a standard flasher, they will blink really fast like it does when you have a bulb burnt. The companies that make the bulbs say to put a resistor in the circuit to make them flash correctly, but it's easier and probably safer to go the no-load flasher route.

Travis. .

 

[tugboatphil]

Travis,



Is that what they call an electronic flasher unit? I think there was a post about them not too long ago.



How about posting some pics of your old MoPars!!

 

[TKingsbury]

Travis,



Is that what they call an electronic flasher unit? I think there was a post about them not too long ago.



How about posting some pics of your old MoPars!!

Yes, I think any electronic flasher will work. I have a Grote flasher in my truck, it is like a purple/red color and it will support like 16 bulbs . I don't have LEDs, but I do have a problem where my front fender marker lights don't blink out of sequence with the fronts like they should and my signals flashed FAST. Put in the Grote and they flash a nice constant speed. A guy I know put relays on the tail lights in his Imperial so he could lessen the load on the old ciruitry and get full voltage to the rear lights. He too put an electronic flasher in because the relays didn't draw enough power to make his stock oil-can type flasher flash. Also, don't get too big of a flasher. I put one in my truck that would support like 20 something bulbs and it took a good 2 seconds from the time you hit the lever to lights blinking. In rush-hour traffic, 2 seconds is enough to make you run someone over.

You don't want to see pics of my old cars. The GTX is a stripped roller in my garage. The body is pretty much done and it is in primer. The New Yorker is complete, but fairly weathered. It was parked outside and not driven for about 20 yrs or so. If it was a 4 door, I would have parted it along time ago. The 71 D100 is nothing to write home about either. I keep it in Idaho at my father-in-laws place. The body was decent, but last year someone backed into the bedside and now she aint lookin so hot. One of these days maybe I'll sit down and try to get a picture small enough to post.

Travis. .

 

[wtrenholm]

Putting a relay in is actually quite easy. Can try give a play by play if you would like. I pick up mine from a salvage yard, that way you get the relay and a nice plug & harness. A bag of a dozen is usually about $10. I stick em all over. Have some on my headlights so full voltage is available to the lights, have one on my blower motor hi speed to prevent melted switches and full voltage to the motor.



Travis,

Is your 71 PU have any cool options? Most of them around here seem to have two options; 1-heater & 2-keys. I have a 71 D100 that is a clean Nebraska truck that is 383, auto, AC, PS, PB. It's real solid (very little rocker rust) and the original paint is still presentable. It's one of my summer cruisers. I also have a 70 D100 Dude that is in need of a cab (got a clean spare?), a restored 69 Runner, 71 Runner w/ factory sunroof needing resto, 70 Town & Country Wagon (known around here as the Chick Magnet), 68 Newport 2dr and a 65 W100 Power Wagon. Spring is here so I finally get to start driving them again. Trying to pick up a rough 79 Macho truck now. The missus says I have a disease but I know better. Keep the old Mopars running.





Wayne

 

[TKingsbury]

Travis, Is your 71 PU have any cool options? Most of them around here seem to have two options; 1-heater & 2-keys.

Wayne

You pretty much hit the nail on the head. The only reason this truck would have two keys (other than duplicates) is 'cause it has a locking gas cap. It is a bare bones work truck. It belonged to a school district. I used to have a 71 W200 Adventurer w/383, NP445, NP205, pto winch (removed by the guy I bought it from) large knuckle dana 44f, dana 60 rear with low side Skauge utility body. It had the optional instrument cluster with round guages. It was a cool truck, wish I didn't sell it. Come west, there are still some of these old trucks in the wrecking yard with decent cabs.

Travis. .

 

[tugboatphil]

70 Town & Country Wagon (known around here as the Chick Magnet)

Wayne,



Being old enough to fully appreciate the look and size of the 70 T&C wagon, I spit a full drink of coffee in my keyboard this morning. :-laf

 

[HRajagopal]

Some on the mercedes forum tried this and concluded that they were too dim behind a red lens (red LED's and red lenses)



Also, they're pretty directional, so if you're not directly behind, they're hard to see.



Someone needs to buy a few and try them and take pics/report back. Maybe they're better now. Or maybe we need to find clear lenses for the 1st gens (good luck. )



I've been the guinea pig for enough things lately and have a basement full of less-than-optimal "things" I've "tested".

 

[tugboatphil]

I noticed that one of their selling points is that they have more individual LEDs bunched together than "other" bulbs. However, I don't know what the others offered. With the replacement 194s, you could go with the larger ones for clearance lights, but you'd have to keep the original dimensions with your dash lights. 1156 & 1157s would have no restrictions on size either.



I will be ordering some of each, so will soon post results.



Edit - I rechecked the site. They do admit that in some applications a bulb would be better, due to the LED being an "aimed" light rather than radiant. However, they also reccommend that you use the same color LED as your lense color for best results. Apparently the lense color will filter out all the light spectrum, except for the matching color.



And as to the size of the 1156 & 1157, they offer a 30 LED that is slightly larger diameter than standard, so some modification of the lense might be necessary to get it to fit. Or, go with the 24 LED model that will fit.

 

[guava]

If one of you guys does put LEDs in, make sure to get a no-load flasher. If you try to use a standard flasher, they will blink really fast like it does when you have a bulb burnt. The companies that make the bulbs say to put a resistor in the circuit to make them flash correctly, but it's easier and probably safer to go the no-load flasher route.

Travis. .

Adding the resistor keeps the blinkers working normally but the benefits of switching to LEDs is lost because you just send the amperage back up... fyi

 

[TKingsbury]

Adding the resistor keeps the blinkers working normally but the benefits of switching to LEDs is lost because you just send the amperage back up... fyi

You sir, are correct. The site I saw that on recommended doing the resistor deal, I think the people they are aiming for just want the cool look and not the benefits. As far as the light being directional, there are led replacements out there that have a ring of leds facing sideways around the bulb to shine light on the reflector part of the housing. It is supposed to make them act more like regular bulbs.

Travis. .

 

[arrowsmith]

I tried som led on a 1947 F--- they were just a round dot. I think the lens will either make them work or not

 

[OTRPU]

True, adding the resistor negates some of the LED advantage, but they should still have a longer service life than incandescents. When ya run um all day and all night everyday this can be a factor. I replace one or the other headlamp bulbs bout once a month. You see, I drive the speed limit. . . means literally thousands of vehicles pass me. Those dragging anything get flashed back. This burns out bulbs quite quickly.



Cheers,

Steve J

 

[CEpp]

looked into them, they do not transfer light like a normal 3157 bulb. arent as bright and the diff between park and stop or flash for the front or rear is hardly even noticable. i switch them back, was afraid that some one would rearend the truck or would see the t-signal in the front. left them in the cab lights though.

 

[Yo Hoot]

I've been through the gammit with this retrofit LED bulbs. Don't bother with them. I the daytime they simply don't cut it for the turn signal when the brakes are applied. Save your money. This is with the latest and greatest radially mounted LED bulbs.



Also anyone considering doing this on a third gen truck, third gen trucks do not have a flasher unit. You must use load resistors.

 

[radar doctor]

nice article. . tks doc