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Left rear door, power window motor part #'s

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Cruise Control Issue Question

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Need to replace the window motor for the left rear door on my qaud cab.

S t e a l e r ship gave me #55276103AD for $247. 00. I can't imagine a power window motor being that much.

Any help?
 
Need to replace the window motor for the left rear door on my qaud cab.



S t e a l e r ship gave me #55276103AD for $247. 00. I can't imagine a power window motor being that much.



Any help?



Find a parts store that deals in Dorman Products. Part Number is 742-442. Just a quick search would make it to be about $60. 00 thereabouts.



Dorman catalog page here... .

http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsear...dge&model=Ram 2500&parttype=Window Lift Motor



May be chinese, but Dorman stuff is ok as a rule. Looks easy to change at least. Same design that 90's Cadillacs used.



Mike. :)
 
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I was a little surised when the parts guy from the s t e a l e r ship said that I couldnt just buy the motor.

Thanks guys!
 
couple of thoughts... I use rockauto.com and have been happy with their service... .

the other thought is that we've talked about not using that reference to the Dealer... they have costs from the factory they can't control... . I personally don't use the dealer very much... but every dealer I've ever been into have a better location and are cleaner than any auto parts store I've ever been to... . and that' something you have to pay for and support... .
 
Are you sure its the motor ? wires break in the looms between the tower and door

Yup. I've traced and troubleshooted the system before I determined it was the motor. At least I think I did.
 
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Are you sure its the motor ? wires break in the looms between the tower and door

It turned out I had a bad motor and a broken wire. I temporarily plugged in the new motor to the harness but I could only get it to rotate in one direction. Hmmmmm. My first thought was that I received a bad motor. So a disassembled the passenger door and did some swap O' roo's with parts to verify. The new motor turned out good as did both door switches. The fear of chasing a ghost wire was settling in before I remembered that you mentioned the harness between the door and B pillar.

I haven't been into that part of my truck yet so I was a little nervous but I try to remind myself that it's all "nuts and bolts". Anyway, found the broken wire, soldered and applied some heat shrink. Good to go.

Thanks p-Bar for the tip!
 
Mr. Hawes, I've been down that road chasing wires on both sides. I wound up going for one harness and doing a wire replacement and having a spare. The rear doors are the same harness left or right. Also, the window circuit is tricky to diagnose.
 
Not sure if it was updated but I felt it was the best way out- now I have one to put in at a moments notice. It wasn't cheap. Something like $180.

Wayne when you go to R+R it check and see how flexible the wire is between the two . Thanks
 
p-Bar, to clarify, I did this a while ago. It was cold out and the harness failed. To worsen the problem, I had repaired it already in place. Another wire broke this time. That was the last straw. Then I plunged for the new harness. Since then, I repaired the old one- ran some generic wire , de soldered the connectors, and ran the new stuff deep into the door. It's on the shelf now should the other side fail.
The wire quality was unremarkable but I'm sure at least it's from a different vendor.
A big factor for me is that my rig is more like a taxi. My kids are in n out back there every day sometimes many times a day. Those doors get used!
 
I have a good feeling the solder connection I made today will fail. Not the actually joint soldered, but just beyond the solder. I made a rigid connection on a flexible joint; if that makes sense. Ether way I'll know where to look the next time I have troubles with the windows.

Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the pic!! I had the same problem (for the last year and a half) and went out to my truck and took the connector apart and low and behold, 2 broken orange wires and a just about broke purple wire!!. Is there a part number for the harness? Cant be but a foot and a half long so.
thanks
bill
 
Thanks for the pic!! I had the same problem (for the last year and a half) and went out to my truck and took the connector apart and low and behold, 2 broken orange wires and a just about broke purple wire!!. Is there a part number for the harness? Cant be but a foot and a half long so.

thanks

bill





Bill now remember that this harness is also used on the space shuttle door and the ones chrysler sells are the ones that didn't meet milspec. :-laf Look how stiff that wire is what a bunch of junk . Probably the bean counters son that screwed up the M16 worked for Chrysler and saved them a bunch of money
 
Part Number was superceded!
Quick Order
Old Part Number 56051931AA
New Part Number 56051931AB
Part Name WIRING REAR DOOR
Core $0. 00
Online Price $144. 50


Price went down! That's a copy/ paste from my dealer's parts page. The AB tells me it was upgraded, but I have to look at what I got.
http://sansonecjdparts.com/
 
Bill now remember that this harness is also used on the space shuttle door and the ones chrysler sells are the ones that didn't meet milspec. :-laf Look how stiff that wire is what a bunch of junk . Probably the bean counters son that screwed up the M16 worked for Chrysler and saved them a bunch of money

I try to think that, when our trucks were built, DCX (remember them?!) did a lot of nasty things to the vendors and I think were the reason- from up top- for a lot of issues. I would believe that by now, the old stock that was in mexico would be gone, and now another vendor- or even a different run from the same vendor is what you'll get. You're right in your observation that the wires are brittle, and that should NEVER happen!
 
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