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Length between oil changes

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Originally posted by Cooker

Quaker State gasser oil sucks. A GM engineer friend of mine was given the chance to test oil in gassers and give the same test situation the QS oil came back the worst of any of their test oils. I don't remember the other oils in the test, I just remember QS was the worst. I don't know about their diesel oil, but I wouldn't doubt it is just as bad. For this reason I'd never run QS in any vehicle I own.



My $. 02

Ryan





Thanks for the heads up. The QS I've seen was adverertised with a high TBN, so I assumed it would be OK. Ya know what they say about assuming...

Eric
 
Redram, thanks for taking the time to write you reply. It was excellent!



So I won't go for the long drain intervals. I'll sample at 6,000 miles and change oil at 12,000 miles.



Is it a good idea to change filter at 6k? My real question is this: Let's say I'm doing an oil change at 10k or 12k, I always change the filter then as well. Should I be changing the filter at the halfway point as well, and taking an oil sample?



About oil sampling; guess it's best to sample at the halfway point and when I change the oil. Is this correct?



Thanks, again.



Bill Cook
 
Redram,



Another question. Went to the Oilguard sight (I think that's the name used). Everything they have is now half price because of a "moving sale".



How is their by pass better/same/different from the Amsoil by-pass filter?



Thanks,



Bill Cook
 
BC - I have no idea or curiosity whether the Amsoil or Oilguard filter is better. I believe in a bypass filter system being superior to just changing the full flow filter at short intervals. It's not for everyone but if you are looking to improve filtration of engine oil then considering a bypass filter setup is a must.

Whether manufacturer a is better than b, I think that the Amsoil gents will more that cover what they consider to be the strong points of their system.

I work for another oil manufacturer and we have choxen to stay out of the 'equipment business' i. e. , selling filters and all the other whatnot that you can get from someone like a dealer of Amsoil. We concentrate on producing oil, nothing else.



By far, the 'best' oil filter that I have come across is a centrifugal filter called Spinner II. Unfortunately, it's priced over $600 dollars, maybe 895 I'm not sure. No cartridges or filters to replace, just clean the soot that ends up being deposited by the centrifugal action caused by the oil pressure.

Here's a link http://www.tfhudgins.com/spinner/spinner2.html



However, as my position of Tech Services Mgr, I try to give people the straight information. I think the advantage of a "kit" from Amsoil is that it should have all the pieces to install without the individual having to think or resource fittings, hose, etc. However, you pay for that convenience with an increased price. I for one, like the challenge and satifaction of building something that I have designed and fabricated. How course, I also have a Mech Engineering degree and have raced cars for 17+ years so plumbing a filter is not a big deal.



As far as the sample interval, there is no right of wrong interval to sample oil. The key is to sample frequently enough to develop a trend of the analysis so that the numbers are meaning full.



Kind of like checking your blood pressure of chloresteral. Once a year doesn't necessarily provide meaningful data.



I have enough confidence in my Cummins and in Royal Purple that once every 12,000 miles for an oil analysis will give me meaningful data. Taking it every 6,000 doubles the price as a single oil analysis is about $10 each. Some individiuals like to see the data, others can not justify the cost.



No right or wrong.



As far as running without the bypass extended miles, we've had individuals run on Royal Purple in excess of 275,000 without a change of oil, just changing the filter once every 5K. It ran fine, but I don't think that I would necessarily buy that used car for myself!



I have a Cummins service bulletin somewhere that states our 6BTA motors in a Class 5 Truck would run up to 18,000 mile oil change intervals if the idle time was less than 10%. I don't think anyone with a personal vehicle ever accumulates 3-4% idle time. So even at 12,000, you're being conservative.



Hope this helps.
 
Same horsepower ratings, but at most would have a 14 quart capacity instead of our 12.



Guys, I do this for a living, (analize oil) you're changing your oil too frequently in most cases at 3000, 5000, or 6000 mile intervals.



redram
 
Redram, thanks for the info. It's much appreciated.



Just got back from a get together with memebers of the Southeaster TDR. Great bunch of folks. Took a ton of notes.



The two most confusing things I've run into concerning my Dodge is air filters and oil change intervals and which type of oil filter is best. As you said, there is no one answer.



I've got 123,000 miles. I switched to Amsoil at about 85,000 miles. I will keep our 3500 for another 8 years or so. I want to avoid as many problems as I can. I pull heavy and often. I understand the number 1 enemy is heat. Therefore I went to about all synthetics.



My confusion is this. I read JJWs post about going 25,000 miles between oil changes with just filter changes and sampling every 6,000 miles. No problems. Guess I expect that this is the type of change interval one is suppose to get from synthetics. Then I read about someone else who has a by pass and synthetics yet still changes filter and fluids every 10 to 14,000 miles. This doesn't make sense to me.



After the meeting yesterday and talking to everyone there - who all know a ton more than I do - I'll hear everything from "use dino oil and change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles" to one fella that has a bypass, changes the filters every 7500 miles, and went 48,000 between oil changes.



I know in my head a by-pass filter would be best. I don't want to send the $200 plus bucks to buy it. But I am leaning that way.



Guess in my gut I think similar to JJW. I want to stay with Amsoil but no by-pass filter, change the filter every 6 to 7,000 miles and do a sample at the same time,and finally, change the oil at 18,000 to 24,000 miles. Is this crazy?



Thanks for any info.



Bill Cook
 
BC (Bill Cook)

There is no right or wrong to your answer, what you perceive as a dilemma. You have a personal decision to make. No one else can make it for you.



I recommended a way to avoid the $200 kit fee from the Amsoil guys for a bypass by building one yourself from Cummins Fleetguard parts fro less than $75. Obviously this was not an option for you. If it was my truck, and I wanted to keep it another 8 years, I would add the bypass filter regardless of WHAT oil change schedule you choose to run or WHO's filter you choose to use.

The only way to minimize soot buildup in the engine would be to change the oil every 100 miles or to use a bypass filter in the 1-3 micron range. A full flow filter will NOT touch soot particles.



There are alot of people on this site that have NO knowledge of oil other than the brand that they use and the interval that they change it at. However, in the US, everyone is entitled to vosice there opinion and I respect that.



You should be able to safely run 20-25K oil change intervals using a high end product such as you are using changing the filter at 5-6k intervals. However, addint that Bypass filter will be an improvement over running just the full flow filters.



Sampling the oil and performing an oil analysis every 6K is a waste of money as it adds $40 or more to the cost per oil change interval of 25K. Sampling every 10-12K is more reasonable and paying attention to fuel mileage, oil levels, coolant levels, etc. will fill in the voids.



Remember, oil analysis is not really there to detect oil failure but tracks operating performance of the engine checking for fuel, dirt, and water contamination which if present in the oil, will cause the oil (any oil) to state to degrade.



Unfortunately Bill, it's your decision since it's your truck. Gather all the information that you think is pertinent, and make a decision. Don't let someone else determine the condition of your truck.



Good luck.



:p
 
Redram,



Again, thanks for taking the time and having the patience to teach me. I appreciate it.



As I said yesterday, in my head I know a bypass filter makes sense. Reading your last post put me over the top. If I'm going to keep the 3500, and I am, the money I spend on a bypass filter will be money well spent.



Also testing the oil every 12k instead of 6 or 7k makes sense.



Since I'm not a mechanical wizzard I don't trust myself to fabricate my on bypass setup. In fact, when reading the post where you described building one, it was over my head. Is there a drawing I can go to so I can see how it's done?



Thanks again for your time and patience.



Bill Cook
 
Redram..... You mentioned that the optimum way to take a sample was to at a pressurized portfor the oil... ... . Just curious where you or anyone else has bought their sample valve and where is this port it should be installed in..... Thank you for the help.....







96' 2500 CTD, auto, 4. 10, Ultralight Gauges, TST #8, amsoiled throughout.
 
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The owners manual in my '93 recomends 3,000 to 6,000 miles oil change intervals. I use Amsoil 15W40 Marine full synthetic, have always changed at 6,000 miles and done an oil analysis at each change. My analysis results are the same after 137,000 miles as they were the first time I did it. I also do an analysis on my transmission and rear diff at each change. Hope this helps.

Happy Trails

Bob
 
BC, sounds like you are headed down the right path.



I sample every 15,000 and change the full flow filter less. I still have the original bypass filter. It still flows so it must still work. I add 1 quart of make up oil about every 3k miles.



I built my own bypass using the Amsoil filters, base and a couple fitting and then, using string, figured out where I wanted the lines run and how long. I had the local hydraulic shop make them up and came out real well $ wise.



I haven't changed oil in almost 2 years. This is due to the frequency of added make up oil and the driving I do (almost no short trips). It rather staggering to realize all the time, trips to dump waste oil and money I've saved by doing this!



Bob B. I suspect the reason your oil looks so good is because it's almost new! You should NEVER have any problems doing that.
 
Was planning on bypass, But...

Bill, I'm another "JJW-ND". I run Amsoil synthetic and stock filtration, with 20,000 mile intervals. After 20,000 miles my oil sample came back with an iron count of only 41ppm and all values such as soot (under 1%), TBN, oxidation, etc. showed my oil was still in excellent condition. I changed my filter 3 times. I think for the next round I may do 25,000 miles and change the filter about every 8,000 miles, but may stretch it to 30K to keep consistent on 10K sampling intervals. If I go 30K I will do 4 filter changes, I think 10K on a filter is really pushing it. I use the Stratapore filter most of the time (also Baldwin and Napa Gold).



When I got my truck I seriously considered doing bypass filtration. The only thing that held me up was, I was a little nervous about the plumbing. Plus the cost and installation effort. So I decided, why not just run with stock filtration and analyze the oil?? Reading posts by JJW-ND was my inspiration, so I went with that. Well after some awesome oil analysis results, I don't feel much urgency to throw on a bypass system. Like JJW, I'd like to change my oil once in a great while, I enjoy filling the motor with new life blood occasionally, but I am happy with what I'm going with.



The last 20,000 miles were far from ideal, a high percentage of the first 5,000 was short trip winter driving, barely warm up then shut 'er down. Then at the last few thousand it was 90-105F, I did some towing, etc. A high percentage (at least 50) of my driving is in town.



So I guess I'd suggest the same, don't rush out and install a bypass setup just yet, give stock filtration with synthetic oil and sampling a try. I think you'll like what you see :cool:



Vaughn
 
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Thanks, Extreme, for the info. Much appreciated.



Vaughn, great info, thanks. From what I understand from Redram, and he makes tons of sense, the main reason for a bypass is get the rid of the soot in the oil. However, Vaughn, you brought up another good point. If you don't have a bypass, and if you are testing your oil regularly, and the results come back saying that you don't have a soot problem, you're o. k. without the bypass.



I feel like a ping pong ball. I'm on one side of the table, then the other, but right now I'm on top of the net.



Thanks for all of the great information, y'all.



Bill Cook
 
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