Les Schwab or do it my self brake job

[Stomp]

Well I am tired of my pickup shaking every time I try to stop. So my question is should I take it in to have Schwabs do the brakes or should I do them myself. I know I can handle the job, but when you take it in they give you a warranty. I was thinking that I should get this done before I head up to Canada. I also need to change the power steering pump its going south real fast.



I will do a search for the part numbers, but if someone has them handy it would be much appreciated. What else do I need to look at? I would also like to get the bigger brakes and pistons for the rear of my pickup also I heard it makes a huge difference.



Stomp

 

[dpuckett]

Warranty schmaranty. Do it yourself; you'll end up fixing up their screw up anyway, so save yourself the hassle, stress, and money. Get the parts form Advance, Checker, O'Reiley's, et al, (basically anywhere besides NAPA and Carquest) and you have a lifetime warranty on parts.



Bigger wheel cylinders on the rear make a difference, IF you can get the RWAL module bled (which is possible, just takes patience and lots of fluid). OR better yet, bypass it altogether, and have REAL rear brakes. I put 1-1/8" WCs on my 92 W250 and it helped a good deal, esp when loaded to 18K GCVW, and the trailer brakes quit. #@$%! #@$%! #@$%! Cant help ya out on the P/S pump. I have the updated vane style, or so bgilbert tells me.



Daniel

 

[Stomp]

Yeah, but I am getting lazy and I make alot more money than I used to. Yeah your probably right it would be a lot less hassel just to do it my self. what rotors should I buy? Performance friction rotors and pads.



Stomp

 

[cguthrie]

I've heard some not so good stuff about les schwab doing brakes so i don't know about that one. About the rotors my friend is getting some custom ones made at a truck shop for me in Portland instead of buying some more from autozone. Just make sure if you do the brakes put the rotors on the hubs and then go get them turned at a good brake shop.



Chris

 

[dan brooks]

Stick with the "good" Raybestos (not Raymold) or name brand rotors - don't get the offshore junk. I don't know of any performance rotors available off the shelf. Like Chris said, have the new rotors turned after you get them assembled to the hubs (same goes for the rear drums).



If you don't have 3" brakes on the rear it's worth the money and effort to upgrade. Check the "part number" thread in the FAQ forum for the numbers for shoes and wheel cylinders.



If you're going to do the rear brakes, spend the money and get the right tools - the cost is minimal and it makes the job MUCH easier. I fought with the hold down springs the first time, but breezed right through the second. I'll try to dig up the thread for the info on the tools I used.



EDIT: Here is the thread.

 

[Stomp]

Hey thanx guys I need/want to get this done before I head up to the first gen party not a whole lot of time left I had better get started. Oh yeah thank you for the link I will see if I can find those tools at the ranch I am sure we have them we have everything else. If not I guess I will add to the collection.



Stomp

 

[BPonci]

Hey Stomp, You can borrow my pressure bleeder if you want. It makes the job easier doing it by yourself.

 

[Stomp]

Yeah BPonci maybe I should just pay you or Garrett to do them at least I know they will get done right. About the bleeder if I do choose to do them my self I might just take you up on that offer it sure does make the job easier.



Stomp