less smoke & more power?

[flathead6]

I just recently installed a 16 cm housing in my '92 W250 auto. Several years ago the pump was timed by a local Dodge dealer (Shelbville Chrysler) by a knowledgable diesel mechanic.

With the guidance from Pastor Bob, I have been making some pump adjustments. The smoke screw is all the way down (no room for the lock nut), the cone is adjusted to it's deepest and the starwheel has been backed off a few turns (but nowhere near the top yet). The truck seems to have more response and pep but the confusing thing is that I now have LESS smoke. Not that I want more, but I thought that was an "indicator" of optimum settings?

Max boost so far is about 19psi with ~950F EGT (preturbo). I guess my question is: have I adjusted something out of whack since there is little to no smoke? I want all the "free" HP and efficiency I can wring out.

Thanks

 

[paccool]

Star wheel needs to go down, not up. If you took it up you have less response. Take it to the bottom and bring it back up one turn and see what you have. Count the turns so you know where you started at. Also turn the fuel cone for max fuel. - never mind the cone comment, I just reread your post.

 

[Greenleaf]

I have found that the "full fueling screw" will only turn in far enough to the point that the o ring boss will bottom out and thus the screw will run out of threads... ... or room or whatever. There will be several threads still exposed even with the lock nut in place.



If you have turned it in to the point that there are no threads exposed with the lock nut removed I'd conclude that you would have had to literally destroy the internal threads (to an extent) to move it that far. The screw is ferrous metal and the pump top being aluminum it will peel out the threads to "allow" one to turn the screw past it's internal stop.



I'd be more concerned of pushing aluminum pieces into the pump and/or the amount of effort it required you to turn the screw in that far as opposed to no smoke.



That being said, I'd rather perform this so called "overextension" of the screw with the pump top removed as opposed to on the truck.



I'd say that if you really desire to have all the free power from the VE you can muster, you'd want to disasemble the pump and modify it as opposed to simply turning in the screw to the point you shave the threads off the pump top with the fuel screw.



It's just my humble opinion.



GL

 

[Greenleaf]

OK, sorry. You turned the smoke screw down all the way. Still, be careful with the external mods. They have a limited effect when compared to the internal mods.



Sounds like you need mo'fuel.



Anyway, I did have a gent tell me he turned the fuel screw in so far as to have no threrads exposed. I was wondering HOW he did it with no ill effects to the pump top!!! Or a serious run-a-way .



-S

 

[JLEONARD]

With only 19 psi and 950 F egt that tells me you have some more tweakin' to do.

And perhaps it time for an injector upgrade?

 

[cerberusiam]

Yep, need more fuel. Tuning the fuel pin, star wheel, etc just gets a bit more pep and throttle reaction but not much fuel. You should be able to get a shot of black smoke at low/no boost with your setup. Just be careful on the full power screw as some pumps tend to react badly when increasing the fuel.

 

[flathead6]

Thanks fellows for the input. I will re-adjust the starwheel setting as soon as I get a chance (should be tomorrow).

Haven't fooled with the "fuel screw" yet. Pastor Bob mentioned that, or something similar (thunderstorm cleaned out all my email so I lost all his good detailed instructions). I was reluctant to start messing with that until I get a tach. Where on the pump is it and what's it look like?

I also failed to mention in my first post that ever since I started trying to fix something that wasn't broke I get an intermitant "check engine" light. Not always though. It reads 3-4-6-5-5. I haven't reborrowed my dad's manual yet to look it up. Anybody have an on-line source to look up fault codes?

The truck has an aFe filter and full synthetics. I guess the next logical step would be injectors. But the auto is still stock...

Again, I'm not looking for smoke, just wondering where it went. Thanks for all the input.

 

[dan brooks]

<snip>It reads 3-4-6-5-5. <snip>

It sounds like you may be missing part of a code - they are all two digit numbers. IIRC, the "5-5" signals the end of the stored codes.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Hey flathead..... you can find pictures and all sorts of reference stuff in my readers rigs section... also, you can find text info in the "sticky threads" at the top of the 1st gen forum page...

You should be good to tweak if you go thru that stuff. .



pb...

 

[Greenleaf]

34 is the speed controller. There is a short or open in either the vacuum or vent solenoid.



The next one is like the movie "National Treasure"... ... ... .....



A code with the #6 is listed as the controller failure. It does not go into much detail. There are two types of controller failures listed, depending upon which exact code. HOWEVER, the well thought out FSM does not say WHICH controller... . nor what it controls. Gotta love that. Engine controller perhaps???????



It's like a clue. Gotta wonder if there is an invisable Ottendorf code somewhere in this book.



GL