Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Less turn radius

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Road Relay 4, Worth It?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Okay, which box for me?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I just did Lukes Link on 4 tie rod ends and drag link connections, now it seems like I lost a 1/2 a turn to one side. I also put on twin steering stabilizers (Skyjackers), could this have had an effect? I did not touch the adjusting sleeves, just the tie rods and drag link connections.
 
Okay, went for a test drive and found that the right inner tie rod is contacting the sway bar mount on thge passenger side, just barely but enough to shave metal, so I'm going to grind tyhat part down a little. See if that helps, everything feels way better now and tighter, but there seems to ba alot of clunking going on under there:confused: , have no idea why, everything is tightened per instructions and torque specs????
 
Make sure the large side of the tie rod adjusting coupling isn't pointed forward. It will seem like there is plenty of clearance with the wheels pointed straight ahead but in a hard turn it can hit the stabilizer. Won't usually change your turning radius but can do a good job bending or cutting a hole in the stabilizer.
 
How are your front axle U-joints? They could be the source of the clunking. You can check by jacking up a side and turning the steering wheel to the stop. Then roll the tire by hand. It should turn smoothly.
 
Illfelm, you were right, the adjusting sleeve is pointed forward, so the "new" second shock's end ring was hitting the bolt, hope I didn't screw it up too much:( . So I'm going to rmove it for now, can I turn the sleeve around with out changing the alignment? Joe G. , I think I have to look at the U joints too, my Dad was turning the truck while I watched and there was a loud clunk from the pass. side U joint, ball joint area. Time for a R/R. Thanks guys!
 
Okay, removed second steering shock, right steering back to normal, BUT the left inner tie rod link still contacts sway bar mount, I grinded all I can and it still hits, gotta get a new inner tie rod, any suggestions for an affordable replacement? D/C Stealer wanted $337. 00!:--)
 
Most auto parts can get you the tie rod much cheaper than the dealer, but what makes you think it will make a difference, is yours bent?



As for the adjusting coupler, 1/4 turn is all it will take to get it out of the way, shouldn't change your alignment enough to matter. Most times the coupler is left in the forward position by alignment shops that don't know any better for the simple reason the clamp down bolts are easier to get at. Make sure after every alignment you check the coupler's position.
 
Thanks for the info, probably going to turn the adjusting sleeve clamp around so I can put the other shock back on, also I have to get another tie rod because I put the Lukes Link on and it's what's hitting the sway bar mount, also kinda binded the steering in the full right turn position:eek: very scary at first. It's barely shaving against the mount, now question, will driving it possibly bend something? There is some give in the rods, they rotate so they let the Lukes slide along the mount, I'm ordering (because we all know they stock up parts like this every where, especially in Hawaii... . yah right:mad: ) my tie rod tomorrow, but do you think it will be all right to drive for now, man don't really wanna use the Mazda:{ .
 
Some folks have said they've driven without a stabilizer and noticed no difference whatsoever. I've never tried it with a Ram but have on other rigs, the main hazard is hitting a bump/hole/rut that wrenches the steering wheel from your grip into a full turn. I had one that probably would have broke my thumbs if I tried to stop it. Start out slow and see how it feels.
 
Update, Well, my dad was able to find a parts store that had both of what I needed in stock, track bar and left inner tie rod, last place he looked and not even a place we thought could even order it, both were Moog brands, got um both in in about 2 hours. That tie rod adjusting sleeve can be a b*tch to get to rotate at first, but I got it almost perfectly where it was, counted rotations and took measurements. Now truck tracks great, no clunking, only steering wheel a little to the right, but after I get my new Super Swamper Radial SSRs on this week I'll have it aligned. Boy this was a fun week:) . Now on to the KDP jig fix, thanks to my Dad and you guys for all your help and advice. got me through another one!
 
Oh yah illflem, I have been running with one shock, probably can leave it like this but it seemed to be a tad bit tighter feel on the road with 2 shocks so I'm going to flip the sleeve tomorrow. Thanks!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top