Let's talk front drive shafts

[jgillott]

Last weekend when replacing the clutch on my '07, I started thinking about the front drive shaft. There isn't an obvious issue with the original at the moment, but I'm starting to think about replacing it at some point. I can't guarantee how many times it actually took grease correctly over the years with that ridiculous grease needle design and I'd love to replace the entire unit at some point as a preventative maintenance step.

Who here can recommend a quality replacement? I'd prefer a plug and play new shaft. I don't want to rebuild the joints at this point on the old one. I'd like to just open the box and install an new one.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

 

[GrantP]

It'll be Tom Woods for me when I need it. I've used several of his driveshafts in various vehicles, all ran super smooth and were simple bolt ins.

http://www.4xshaft.com/

 

[TFucili]

I'd guess other than OEM, I'd be looking for a good driveline shop that could build one with quality components, and properly balanced.

On Edit: GrantP beat me to it, unless you have a local builder.

 

[jgillott]

It'll be Tom Woods for me when I need it. I've used several of his driveshafts in various vehicles, all ran super smooth and were simple bolt ins.

http://www.4xshaft.com/

Excellent. Thanks

 

[jgillott]

I'd guess other than OEM, I'd be looking for a good driveline shop that could build one with quality components, and properly balanced.

On Edit: GrantP beat me to it, unless you have a local builder.

We don't have a local builder that I know of that I would trust in this case, especially since I'm not in a hurry.

 

[GrantP]

I've tried the local route twice at two different shops, let's just say that didn't go well.

 

[NIsaacs]

Tom Woods look good. Or this one, they also have "Gold" and "Premium" for more money.

https://torqueking.com/product/11431/qu11431-front-cv-shaft-g56/

 

[jgillott]

Tom Woods look good. Or this one, they also have "Gold" and "Premium" for more money.

https://torqueking.com/product/11431/qu11431-front-cv-shaft-g56/

I like the looks of that. Thanks.

 

[TFucili]

Looks like this guy is a sled puller, and been at it a while:

http://www.greensburgmachine.com/about.html

 

[jgillott]

Looks like this guy is a sled puller, and been at it a while:

http://www.greensburgmachine.com/about.html

He's 1/2 hour from me. Didn't even think about him. I don't know him personally, but a lot of my friends have used his stuff over the years.

 

[Ozymandias]

I bought a new, latest revision, OEM shaft this summer, pretty happy with it.

Part#
52123111AA
52123111AB
52123111AC
52123327AA
52123327AB

Lenght for your Manual Truck 35,5"

 

[jgillott]

I bought a new, latest revision, OEM shaft this summer, pretty happy with it.

Part#
52123111AA
52123111AB
52123111AC
52123327AA
52123327AB

Lenght for your Manual Truck 35,5"

Do you mind if I ask you what you paid for it? My local dealer quoted me $634.14 for the OEM shaft.

 

[TFucili]

Wow, I just googled the last number in Ozy's list, and it looks like your dealer is treating you right.

 

[jgillott]

Wow, I just googled the last number in Ozy's list, and it looks like your dealer is treating you right.

Yes, list is over $900 I believe.

 

[Ozymandias]

Mine is an Auto Trans, that DS is cheaper, I paid shy of 400 Bucks for mine.

 

[jgillott]

Mine is an Auto Trans, that DS is cheaper, I paid shy of 400 Bucks for mine.

Thanks

 

[KATOOM]

Why would you want to pay premium money to replace something you dont need to replace...and still works fine now??? The only parts of the front driveshaft which ever need attention are the three u-joints and double cardan ball/spring.
I'm not into messing with u-joints so much myself any more so when I need to have them replaced I simply take the whole shaft to a driveline shop I trust and have them install them and put it on a balancer just to be sure its running smooth. Total cost is usually $125 - $150. Thats a whole lot cheaper than some custom unit or even an OEM replacement...

 

[Wayne M.]

If something custom isn’t desired, the OEM shafts are hard to beat, especially if there’s a suspected whip in the tube. Regarding the F550 salt trucks I’m endlessly dealing with, it’s just not worth putting joints and bearings in a rusty rotted piece of junk. I’m allowed to get new shafts. Slapping in a fresh new shaft is cheaper than wrestling and spending labor on the old stuff.

 

[jgillott]

If something custom isn’t desired, the OEM shafts are hard to beat, especially if there’s a suspected whip in the tube. Regarding the F550 salt trucks I’m endlessly dealing with, it’s just not worth putting joints and bearings in a rusty rotted piece of junk. I’m allowed to get new shafts. Slapping in a fresh new shaft is cheaper than wrestling and spending labor on the old stuff.

I would have no problem with OEM if the price was competitive. What I would really love is one that eliminates the need for that stupid grease needle to begin with. I wouldn't even consider replacing that shaft if I could guarantee that it has taken grease correctly over the years. But, since I've always done my own maintenance and I know that I'm never happy when I try and grease that joint, it is only time before it fails.

 

[KATOOM]

I would have no problem with OEM if the price was competitive. What I would really love is one that eliminates the need for that stupid grease needle to begin with. I wouldn't even consider replacing that shaft if I could guarantee that it has taken grease correctly over the years. But, since I've always done my own maintenance and I know that I'm never happy when I try and grease that joint, it is only time before it fails.

Then let me throw a plug in there for non-greaseable u-joints...

A lot of people believe that having the ability to pump grease in greaseable u-joints every now makes them last longer. But in reality the non-greaseable are far superior to greaseable. Why...?
Because greaseable u-joints have one lightweight seal holding the grease which is designed to be weak enough to allow old grease to escape as new grease is pumped in. That weak seal also allows grease to escape during normal use and also allow contaminants and water to enter between service intervals. Anyone who's installed greaseable knows that the caps can fall off during inopportune times too while messing and moving things around. Thats how weak the seal is.

Non-greaseable on the other hand have three very firm seals which are tight enough that the cap snaps into place and doesnt come off unless you pull it off. You prefill them with a high quality synthetic grease and they'll likely last much much longer than greaseable will ever. And...you never have to pump grease into them with those stupid grease needles.

Lastly, the non-greaseable are stronger because they dont have the Zerk fittings which if not installed where the Zerk is pushed instead of pulled can become a weak link. Plus non-greaseable are usually solid whereas greaseable are drilled to allow grease a path to the caps.

If this seemingly goes against your current thought process of the two, then just remember that its far far more common to see non-greaseable u-joints on all rear OEM driveshafts which can go hundreds of thousands of miles without ever being touched. Thats all I install too...