LetsTalk Chainsaws

[BarryG]

Anybody out there using the new Stihl MS280? If so what do you think of it? Would love to get the MS360pro but don't have that much cash to spend on a saw. The other saw I am looking at is the MS260. The 260 is about 1lb lighter and has 1/4 or is it 1/2 hp less. The 260 seems more narrow/compact as well. The 280 is a bit less expensive but with a tad more hp. Both are what stihl considers commercial quality. The ms260 is the same tried and true old model 026. The ms280 is relatively new model(I think it has been out about 1 year)



Have 10 acres that is heavily wooded with old growth pine and cedar, it was decimated by pine beetles last year ( it is amazing what those little bugs can do in just one year). So I have lost about 95% of my pine trees :{. Fortunately there is still plenty of Cedar so it won't be bare and it will sure open up the views. I have literally at least 1200 trees yet to cut based on how much I have cut so far. They range in size from small to 24" or so. The old Craftsman chainsaw did ok but has given up the ghost (yeah I know I should have bought a stihl or husky the first time around years ago and I probably wouldn't be here asking this now but had the saw before the property).



Any info would be appreciated.



By the way anybody want some free firewood

 

[mcoleman]

I've currently have one of the 290 Farm Bosses but I am thinking about buying one of those MS360Pro series. I've never had any problems with it but the 360pro is actually lighter in overall weight and has more power.

 

[Gray Ghost]

Get the bigger chain bar. Doesn't bother you on small trees, but sure comes in handy on larger trees. Get the most HP. At the end of the day, a 1/2 lb won't make any difference. You will still be bone tired, unless you do it for a living. Get ear muffs

 

[TowPro]

I own other types of Stihl equipment, but I felt there saws were over priced for what you get. Its been a couple years now, but if I recall, some of the "home use" saws were aluminum cylinders that were not plated. Then to get into the plated cylinder saws you were looking at the Farm use saws, even more money.



At the time I had a 25 year old Jonsered saw, that was still on its original points! it was starting to get worn out so I bought another Jonsered. My brother later bought a Stihl, and my Jonsered will cut circles around it. (that might be because he is using "home owner" low kick back chain, while I run a chisel tooth chain



Jonsered Saws



I have the 2150 Turbo



Only thing I noticed about mine is you have to remove the chain/clutch nut and clutch hub to grease the clutch bearing (5 minute job) where the older version had a hole in the end of the crank for using a needle type grease gun, and you have to keep the brake band for the kickback brake clean or it can overheat. Both are normal maintenance on any saw so no problems.



Ask any tree guy that has owned Jonsered saws which one he would pick.



I would highly recommend it. Its a great saw for under $280. 00

 

[RamThatStroker]

Barry,



When I was in high school I worked for my Uncle's Firewood cutting business who at that time supplied firewood for Rocky Mountain Firewood in Denver and C&C sand in the Springs. We used to cut pine, aspen, and oak with three versions of Stihl chainsaws. The models were the 360 Pro, 390, and 440. All three worked great but I recommend going with at least the 360Pro for your application. The reason is because of its realitively low weight and good power. With the MS260 you might have some difficulties with some of the larger pines. I would also recommend going with at least a 20" bar (24" if most of the trees are on the large side). In addition, if you don't like sharpening the chain almost every time you use it buy one of the carbide tipped chains. Their a little pricey, but stay sharp longer and cut like a hot knife through butter...



By the way the 440 was my favorite. Tons of power and real torquey kinda of like our diesels



Joe

 

[parcher]

I am of the belief that you should run the shortest bar possible on your saw. Fewer cutters to sharpen, less drag on the motor, less chance of injury (bar is a smaller target) I can show you how to make mince meat of that 24" pine with a 14" bar! I have an 026 that I got used (slightly used) for $200. 00 I run a 16" bar on my 026. I have an older Jonsered 49SP that I run a 18" bar on. AT the end of a full day cutting wood, the guy who was usung the lightest saw with the sharpest chain is the least tired out. I"ve got about a dozen chainsaws, you might say I'm addicted. For chainsaw discussion go to the arboristsite http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=9

 

[RBSOB]

Shop around

Agree with others on at least a 20" bar and a "pro" chain, rapid-super or "laser" chain. You won't regret the extra cost. I also have had great experience with my old Jonsered. 13 years old and still running/cutting like a champ, never been back to the shop for service. If you have a Jonsered dealer in your area, definitely shop around and make some comparisons. Our local dealer does allow testing of saws on-site and keeps a log pile on hand for such! He sells a lot of saws! Have fun, be carefull, JimG

 

[parcher]

Husqvarna, Jonsered, and Poulan are all owned by, get this, ELECTROLUX, this is a fact. Do you really want a saw that sucks?

 

[RamThatStroker]

Originally posted by Dl5treez

LOL, I'll take a Stihl thanks.

I second that



Joe

 

[BarryG]

Thanks for the info.



I didn't know that they were all owned by a "Suck" company. I think that the Husky's and Jons saws are fine units. But service/parts for them is harder for me to get especially the Jons. And Stihl dealers seem to be everywhere here. I have always had bad experiences with Poulans(low power and hard starting when hot and my craftsman which I am sure was made by them was the same, at the time I didn't need a hardcore saw and went cheap). I checked out that site last night and wow those boys are serious about their saws. Looks like they like to bomb them as much as we bomb our trucks.



Dzl & Parcher: I have always been told the same thing the smallest bar, the thinnest chain and the biggest power head you can use for the job are the way to go. This time around I refuse to go with a homeowner type.



RamThat: I may very well pony up for that 360pro. It is my first choice but is definitely more expensive than the 260 or 280. I didn't look at the 440 but will take a look see.



Grey Ghost: I hear you on the ear muffs I always use them. In fact I use a helmet when working on the bigger stuff. Last year when I started this cleanup project I was limbing a tree that I just cut and had all the limbs except for a few and was getting ready to roll it to get the remaining ones, checked for stability, seemed solid and there was one more that I thought I could get because of its position and when checking stability it didn't seem to be holding the tree up so I cut away and damn if that thing didn't let the tree roll and a limb on the other side came up smacked me in the side of the head. Sent me to my knees with a ring of stars around my head and one heck of bruise. Next time I went I had a helmet.



Thanks for the info keep it coming

 

[Koa Man]

As a tree service contractor, the saw I use the most is my Stihl MS200 with a 16 inch bar. My favorite ground saw is my Walkerized Stihl 066, 30 inch bar. Walker Saw Shop is in Canada. Send them your saw and they will bomb it for you. My bombed 066 now cuts faster than my stock 084, which I don't even use anymore, except for the rare occaision that I need a bar over 36 inches. Here is the link to Walker. http://www.walkerssawshop.com/