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Levelling Kit

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I know this has to have been previously covered, however, I could not come up with anything when I attempted to search for it. Anyhow, I am considering installing the levelling kit on my truck. For those who have done this, first, is it worth it? Secondly, what are the pros and cons? And lastly, who makes the best product for the money? I would also be going with a shock upgrade at the same time and I've read extensively about that on the forum.
 
i have the tuff country leveling kit on both my trucks. the 94 sets just a tad nose high when empty and the 01 sets pretty level. front end alignment is a must after installing the kit. a coil spring compressor will help for the install. i will be adding the longer lower control arms before long on mine( as you go up the axle comes back). for a while i thought it was the cause of the death wobble i had in my trucks but there are members who got the wobble with out a lift so i cant blame it on the kit. i like the looks of a level truck.
 
Firstly) Yes it is worth it.

Secondly) Pros - looks better unloaded, can fit larger tires, is relatively cheap, is a do-it-yourself project, slightly better command of the road seating, approach angle is better, but pretty much just looks better.

Secondly) Cons - may ride nose high when heavily loaded, may have to adjust headlight aim (I've been flashed only twice in the year since I installed it WITH larger tires), stock shocks may be too short, front driveshaft angle is slightly worse (may wear out u-joints faster if run in 4WD a lot), step in height is higher, axle shifts slightly to driver's side, steering wheel will have to be recentered, caster and toe will have to be reset, ride may be slightly worse (I couldn't tell with tire install at same time - but I am happy), may exaggerate front end wobble.

Lastly) I don't know. Tuff Country is O. K. with mine (slightly less than 2" :confused: ) There may be some cheaper kits, but I like the way the Tuff Country bolts in and and holds the spring in place.



Tips - Remove sway bar links to allow for axle to droop and remove springs. If not enough droop to reinstall with spacers, remove upper control arm bolts instead of spring compressor. (Safer and easier IMHO. ) Loosen/retighten all control arm and track bolts on ground after installation to allow for bushings to neutralize. Check brake lines, axle disconnect wires, etc. when at full extension. Align it yourself or take it to a shop immediately. I skipped a lot of steps (like getting a beer, throwing wrench when you scrape knuckles, another beer, etc. ), but just follow instructions.
 
Thanks

Thank You Steve and Iceman for the helpful, honest responses. I guess I will have to make that decision if/when it becomes more of an issue. Right now I'm running just the 285's, which I think are fine for what I primarily use the rig for. So, if I were to level it it would be more for looks.
 
You don't need to adjust the toe. (it won't change. ) Just the caster and you don't even have to do that if you don't want to. It is a lot easier to turn with less pos. caster and it puts less strain on the front end and my arms. It does look better when it sits level.

Jon
 
It was definitely worth it. The pros are that it makes the truck look much better. Also, the handling is much improved. In my case, I can't think of a single con. I have the Skyjacker 2" replacement springs on my truck. My truck came with fairly soft springs from the factory (39-driver/38-passenger). I've had them on about 1 year now. My first impression was how much better the truck handles. I mean it made a big difference, especially cornering. The truck tracks as straight as always. I can let my hand go on the highway, and if I'm in one of the middle lanes (no crown), it stays perfectly straight. This is the same as with the factory springs. I have the same Rancho 9000's as before the change (Rancho told me the stock length shocks can handle a 2" lift no problem). I really like the looks. If sitting on perfectly level ground, the truck looks exactly level (much better than stock). If the ground is sloped even slightly uphill, it looks a little nose high.
 
drawson,

Superlift make 3/4" spacers. They are only ~$35 each. The only drawback (for some at least) is they need to be welded in.



If you need the Part # I can try to dig it up for you.
 
Actually there is a small change in toe since the drag link angle increases and it creates an angle between the drag link and tie rod. If the tie rod went from steering arm to steering arm the toe would not change. But with the tie rod connecting to the drag link several inches from the end, it brings the steering arms closer together (creating toe-in. ) It's easier to visualize if you imagine what happens to the steering links with say 12" of lift. You may be able to ignore the change, but at least check it after the kit is installed.



The caster change will also be small (if you don't change the cam bolt setting) since the upper and lower control arms are nearly the same length.
 
I got the flash light out and I stand corrected. D. T. W. is correct, that is why it probably tracks a little better. Sorry.

Jon T
 
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