Guns, Bows, Shooting Sports, and Hunting Liberty Gun Safe?

[JLandry]

. . and my fire rating is over 2 hrs...

They indeed look like we'll-built safes, but according to their website, the fire rating is 1 hour at 1750F.



John L.

 

[goodguys75]

They indeed look like we'll-built safes, but according to their website, the fire rating is 1 hour at 1750F.

John L.

yes you are correct..... its been a while since i have looked at that... ... dont think any house fire would last more than 15 min, now a days... ...

 

[jgillott]

Well, after 2 years of putting this on the back burner, I pulled the trigger on a new Liberty safe yesterday. It's amazing how life can get in the way of plans sometimes.

 

[Sticks]

I'm in the same boat. Have been for some time.

First trick is don't advertise you have anything of value - Especially firearms (NRA/GOA/local/hunting stickers on your vehicles).

Be discrete when transporting firearms from your house to vehicle (if you don't have an attached garage, or garage at all).

My budget, Liberty or Stack-On. Anything is better than nothing. Have room in my closet for a 24, so getting a prybar in the edges will be a PITA, and no room for leverage. Just have to negotiate the hallway and narrow doors.

I've been reading up on safes for a few months in detail, and the electronics are still inferior, and usually fail within a few years, and quite expensive to replace. Mechanical lock for me.

There is a couple of top end safes that I would love to have, but I don't have the $2500 it would take to have it delivered to my door.

 

[BIGNASTY]

We have had two liberties, One is manual the other electronic have had the manual lock the longest, but in the time of 10 years that we have had the electronic NOTHING Not even the battery has needed to be replaced. I like it for ease of opening in a hurry up situation.

 

[jgillott]

I did purchase a mechanical lock. No particular reason other than it was on the safe in stock in the color that I wanted.

 

[GHarman]

I've been considering the necessity of a safe. During my experience as a welder/pipefitter working in a environment that includes demolition, I have had the opportunity to demolish many security vault configurations. (Dang what a mouthful)
IMHO)I have not seen an affordable safe that is anything more than a fire resistant steel box. Providing it is lined!
Most are constructed of A-36 or equivalent steel sheet or plate. This is common low carbon mild steel. Anyone with knowledge of tools (purposely being vague, here)
Can access the contents of an average steel safe PDQ! If ya have specific questions and I know You, I will provide You with an answer in a PM! Placing the safe is as important as the construction of the safe in case of a professional seeking access.
GregH

 

[BIGNASTY]

Ya some one walking down the street with a backpack plasma cutter is going to break into my house steal my things and walk off

I don't think that the average Crook is going to have the correct tools discussed or not to get into the safe. Bottom line is if they want into ANY safe that bad none are going to be safe

GOOD ENOUGH FOR ME!!

http://www.libertysafe.com/torture-tests.php

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQFppQZRdqY So I guess if I see a bunch of crooks pull into the yard with a crane I should just open the Damn thing up and give it all to them :-laf OR MAYBE NOT!! Get REAL :-laf

 

[GHarman]

I don' needs no stink-in' Plas' cutter:-laf, Brother!

The reality is that the average safe is just to keep "honest people honest", removing the temptation for unauthorized or curious handling and minimizing potential fire damage.
The choice is Yours to make!

GregH

 

[BIGNASTY]

There is another video that I cant find but have seen it. They use a more barbaric approach and use Dyno-mite around the safe and it still is Safe!!

 

[GHarman]

Yes! Brother BIG! Not all safes are easily accessed.
GregH

 

[BIGNASTY]

Yes! Brother BIG! Not all safes are easily accessed.
GregH

I'm quite happy with my Liberties they have a good history, May not be as pretty as the Cannon or Browning safes that two of the in-laws have but I'm not interested in making them a piece of Furniture. Fire proof I cant remember how long and what temp? but good as any I guess.

 

[HHhuntitall]

I'll tell you from experience, a good safe is only made as well as it's maker makes it..... Having worked in construction many years, and having a reputation for getting the job done, I've been called several times to open safes after a local man passes away, leaving it's contents a mystery to family members. I've had some real surprises, too. (like the older gentleman that had an extensive pornography collection locked up) Usually, the family has a good idea of what's in it, so there's not too much of a surprise. There's something to be said for a safe that costs more than $2000. Not that a Liberty and such are useless. The average thief smashes and grabs. They're too cowardly to stand around and take their time to open even a good locker. Not to mention the physical exertion is too much. They're usually lazy, hence the reason they're stealing. So a Liberty safe is a good investment, IMO. But it doesn't take me long to open one. And a Browning? ProSteel Security Systems, out of Utah. Bottom of the line models sold in the past are easily accessed, more so than Liberty's, but upper line models are pretty tough, requiring more effort or tools. Plasma torches make short work of steel plate, but they're not too healthy on the resale value.... :-laf

And someone made the comment about sentimental value of a firearm.... "One or two are worth more than a good safe." I think there's a lot to that, too. Personally, I've had several brands of safes, even built some of my own and some for other people, and I think one should spend a proportional amount of money in relation to what you own. So it costs you the price of 4 rifles to buy one.... what's it worth to keep the other 5-6 you own safe?

But if you're at the hardware store, bragging about your $12,000 Barrett M82, showing pictures of your living room, garage, and front yard, I think you're less than intelligent to take it home and put it in a Harbor Freight steel lock box in the sunroom on the back porch next to the doggie door in the screen door where the windows won't lock..... with a towel over it....

In another spectrum, I understand the desire to just keep them secured. A good steel locker is all that's needed to keep them from prying eyes and pre-teen (uneducated and coached) children.... A federal requirement, I might add.

Personally, my favorite is a concreted closet with a solid steel safe door, or lockable heavy door. It doubles as a safe room from home invasion and, living in "Tornado Valley", as an acceptable storm shelter. Cheap? No. But if my wife and kids are in it, I can't find anything I value more and have more desire to keep safe.....

 

[WCPoe]

Just an FYI

There is a rather long video on the C & E Safe and security site. ----> http://cesafes.com/

The video is here ----> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHAyRO566sU&list=PL0Wur-_GRv_XAO3zKQlt6xdFch9au30nX

I think some where I read or maybe I misread that you are more likely to loose your stuff in a fire than a robbery. (May be dependent on where you live.) They say go with the most fire rating you can afford, usually more than 90 minutes at 1200 degrees. That being said, aren't most of the robberies quick in and out, (smash and grab types)?

A friend recommended one of the upper end safes like the Fort Knox or the Gruffunder, although out of my price range. The larger Gruffunders weigh over 5000 pounds. Holy cow.
:--)

 

[jhenderson]

My buddy and I have discussed concrete and a safe door a few times. The thing that bothers me is humidity. Here in southern New England summers can be quite humid. How would you keep the sweating concrete from ruining your firearms?

 

[jgillott]

Quick question. My unit came with a dehumidifier. Should I run that all the time? The house is very dry this time of year.

 

[BigPapa]

I've had a Golden Rod plugged up in mine for over 20 years. No rust yet.

 

[Sticks]

My buddy and I have discussed concrete and a safe door a few times. The thing that bothers me is humidity. Here in southern New England summers can be quite humid. How would you keep the sweating concrete from ruining your firearms?

Dehumidifier, and remember to empty the catch basin, or air tight seal what can't be liberally oiled with desiccant in the container, or vacuum pack everything you put in there (food saver - yes long guns will fit in them).

 

[HHhuntitall]

My buddy and I have discussed concrete and a safe door a few times. The thing that bothers me is humidity. Here in southern New England summers can be quite humid. How would you keep the sweating concrete from ruining your firearms?

All the concrete rooms we've built have been using Nudura ICF, (insulated concrete forms). http://www.nudura.com/

In the past, my partner and I built several homes using this technology, and while expensive, it pays for itself in the lifetime of your home. Let alone it's safety factor for your family. One example we built was just over 6,000sqft. We used the ICF for exterior walls, and spray foamed closed cell over the attic roof, essentially insulating the attic as well. There are only two air conditioning units in the house, one 3 ton and one 5 ton. According to experts, that's way too little air conditioning for the home (lets remember our summers in Texas are well over 100* usually).... however, upon connecting the lower 5 ton unit and starting it, it was left to run over night after the house was sealed up. It stabilized overnight, holding the house at 68* downstairs, and 74 upstairs, filling a 5 gallon bucket to overflowing with water. It also ran periodically during the following days as trim was installed, going in and out of the house. The house was built for a man in Ft. Worth, with energy monitors installed on all the electrical fixtures. In the end, the entire home could be cooled for around $500 a month or less in 100*+ weather. It's like a cooler. Keep it sealed up, and it conserves the energy. That structure included a fully concreted master bath and storage closet, which doubled as a Tornado shelter(exceeding FEMA guidelines) and gun vault. Moisture was minimized with AC, draining off excessive moisture.....

For a regular concrete room in the home, I'd still insulate it with R-board or some foam sheeting, sealing edges with spray foam. That will keep it from sweating except for where exposed to atmosphere. R board is available in many configurations, such as: http://www.atlasroofing.com/download.php?uid=951

The same can be done in basements. Monitoring the humidity level with a hygrometer, or perhaps having a moisture sensing humidity reducer can alleviate the moisture. Using a good rust preventative for storage is a must, as well, IMO. Brownell's makes a polar active product that prevents rust, which I use for gun shows where everyone handles your firearms.

The dryer the better for firearm and ammuntions storage, so if you have a high moisture content you can't control, and you are planning on long term storage, vacuum storage is a great option.... Zcor makes some fine products, and if vacuum isn't an option, there's the similar Brownell's long term storage bags..... http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...iple-tough-premium-storage-bags-prod1154.aspx

 

[Thompsonpd]

I got a Browning it is a nice safe with regular dial lock (lock smith at the bank said digital will fail some day so get a regular dial lock). Also buy bigger than you need, scopes take up a lot of space.