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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Lift Pump (broken)

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) First mods for 95 speed

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Low engine temperature?

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I tried everything before removing the pump. :confused: I have removed the discharge line and valve . There was a piece of steal wedged in the valve and the retaining ring is cracked . I am buying a new pump tomorrow :eek: I plan to dissemble the old one to find out where the piece came from . Question , Is the Pump rod removable or dose it fall out very easley?
 
I assume you mean the rod that rides on the cam lobe??

If so, then yes, it is removable. It somes out somewhat easily, the first time I did it I was afraid it would fall out while I was pulling the pump. Havent had a problem though.



Its not a bad job to change, I didnt think. I pulled the filter housing to get more room, and it probably took me about an hour to swap it. I threaded in the line to the filter first, so then bolted the pump in. Then I tightned the line up.



--Jeff
 
On a 4wd you can get easy access by removing the rf wheel. The spring is what I've seen break on these lift pumps. I had to do mine @130K.
 
Changed out the pump OMG what A pain in the A**. Took 3 hours of swearing

then I gave up and disassembled the new pump ,with the spring out it fell right into place , Pumped up runs nice now. Truck has 223,000 it was do.

Looks like the lift pump did brake :--) , one of the one way valves broke ,will be saving it to rebuild if I can find a kit.
 
I just have a quick question, and dont want to highjack, but i was just wondering... . On a 12v, is the only liftpump the mechanical one on the motor, or does it have an elec. in the tank too?? sorry and thanx
 
Bernie, I found the lift pump on my '97 only after joining TDR. The dealer's service writer and parts tech didn't know where it was, or that it had a prefilter. Talked to a friend who specializes on CTD's, and he removes the left front wheel and cuts an arc shaped window in the fender liner. Says it gives good access and visibility, allows easy leak checking, and makes prefilter cleaning fairly painless. He fits a thick poly patch over the hole with short self-tapping screws.



After seeing where it is, his method doesn't seem so bad now.



Tom
 
TEasley said:
Talked to a friend who specializes on CTD's, and he removes the left front wheel and cuts an arc shaped window in the fender liner. Says it gives good access and visibility, allows easy leak checking, and makes prefilter cleaning fairly painless. He fits a thick poly patch over the hole with short self-tapping screws.



Tom

I would kill sombody if they did that to my truck, but thats why nobody but myself works on my truck. Too many hack jobs out there cant chance one touching my truck. Personally I pull the starter.
 
Bernie, After reading your description of the pump replacement, I thought you might not be the only person interested in another option. Since you were obviously doing your own work, I figured you could make a rational decision about cutting a piece of sheet metal or not.



My friend is ethical. He asks permission. Doesn't always get it.



The next time you or I or anyone else has to do this job, I'm sure that it will be OK to at least think about this alternative.
 
BernieFreeman said:
Changed out the pump OMG what A pain in the A**. Took 3 hours of swearing

then I gave up and disassembled the new pump ,with the spring out it fell right into place , Pumped up runs nice now. Truck has 223,000 it was do.

Looks like the lift pump did brake :--) , one of the one way valves broke ,will be saving it to rebuild if I can find a kit.



Yes it's a major PITA, I have been able to fight one back on twice. But like you I figured out it is MUCH easier to take the end off, remove the spring, install the body, then reassemble it. Pretty much a piece of cake then.
 
I mentioned doing the 4wd through the RF wheel opening, but the method mentioned on cutting or removing the liner works on some 2wd. On mine, I removed the liner (plastic liner) & this allows direct access to the pump with no diesel dripping on you. This way you can push straight in against the spring while tightening the screws. If it that hard to push in, try bumping the motor to get the fuel pump cam away from the high point. While I had my liner out I trimmed it (just like the 4wds I've seen are done at the factory) so If I ever had another lift pump go bad, I could easily change it on the side of the road in less than 15 minutes without getting under the truck.
 
I've heard some are different, on my '98 2wd, from under the hood you can see the area that is covered by the inner fender over the front suspension. The mechanical lift pumps don't fail very often anyway, but I trimmed mine just in case Murphy's law finds me while it's snowing or raining on the side of the road somewhere. Mine did not leave me stranded, it just had a loss of power.
 
Mine neither, Joe.

However, I find it no trouble to just do it from the top, with the filter removed. I just got a stool, stood on it, and reached down in there with the rachet and extension. I unbolted it, pulled it off, and put the new/used one in place. I didnt have a problem with a spring???? :confused:

I assume my cam was on the low part of the lobe. I was able to start my bolts just fine.



Oddly, I did have a leak shortly after I did it. The water drain portion on the filter canister was loose, and would leak at high rpm. I guess this pump does make more psi than the old one did!!



--Jeff
 
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