Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Lift pump easy to get to???

[fulltimer]

My lift pump is leaking from the primer button. I am going to replace it myself.

I have read all the very helpful posts on how to perform this swap. Most

say it is easy to get to from the top by taking off the fuel filter and maybe the intake horn.



Even with these things removed what still looks like is in the way is the brake Rear Antilock brake valve and combination valve. Plus mine is a 4wd. So very high.



Has anyone done this from the top with antilock brake?

Maybe it would be easier from the bottom but then the front differential and

drive shaft are in the way.

 

[hsmith]

Everything on 4X4's is harder to get to. Unbolting the M/C asy and moving it to the side will help.

 

[fest3er]

I done did mine Sunday afternoon in the driveway. I removed both the fuel filter assembly (including the bracket) and the starter. Like a round-trip lunch, I went up and I went down. And up, and down. Some things are easier from above and some things are easier from below. If it needs only one hand, top access can work. If you need to get both arms in there, bottom access is required.

Another good excuse to go in from the bottom as well is so you can lubricate linkages you normally can't easily get to.

The diff is *almost* in the way. There was adequate space between engine and front propeller shaft to work, though; arms on one side, eyes on t'other.

I would suggest pre-inspecting the hard fuel lines for rust. If they are well rusted, either soak them thoroughly with lube or replace them. At 11 years and 260K miles, I simply replaced the LP-to-filter line. Cummins Atlantic ordered it since it was 'free' shipping. And I bought it just in case since it was there. I shoulda replaced the other one, but I decided against spending the money, and I didn't need to disturb it anyway.

It took me about 4 hours, start to eating-clean. The weather was warm and nice, so I didn't rush.

 

[Joe G.]

If the push button is leaking and the pump is working ok, all you need to do is replace the O-ring on the push button. No need to pull the pump to do that. The O-ring is about 50 cents at a parts store. Just take the old one in and match it with one in their O-ring box. Email me at -- email address removed -- for my 12 valve fuel supply system write up, how it works and how to fix it.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

As usual - what Joe said. If you do have to pull the pump I would recommend the trick of using longer to start the new pump back in place - then replace the studs in sequence with the mounting bolts.

 

[bmoeller]

Did mine from the top. Never removed the m/c or fuel filter mount or filter. Although, there is a bit more room on the Hydraboost equipped trucks.

 

[WDaniels]

Just to put my 2 cents worth in, I've found it best to do the lift pump from the bottom. Turn the wheels all the way the the right, remove the starter, then lay with your feet toward the right tire under the truck and it is very, very easy.

WD

 

[Grumpy John 4x4]

lift pump

Already had my plastic fender liner **** canned a-long while ago, took a sawsall to the inside metal have all the access you would ever need also did the return hose, yes remove the wheel!

 

[RHestand]

IMHO, my 98 12V has the most cumbersome and hard, to impossible, to access anything, engine compartment, for just about everything below the exh. or int. manifolds.

I don't think I've ever been so frustrated working with mirrors, and skinned knuckles.

My last project was R&R a leaking fuel line under the int. manifold. I would have never known it was there if I had not followed the drips up vertically with a mirror. What a PITA to do and repair. My big hands and arms just won't fit in there.

IMO, I think these trucks really need a tilting front-end more than any vehicle I've ever worked on.

Have any of you guys ever seen or done this to a truck that is still used as a daily driver?

After looking at mine, I don't think it would not be a small task.

What do guys think?

Ray

PS. Winters here in WI require full fender liners.

 

[RHestand]

EDIT: I don't think it woud be a small task.

 

[Dieselnut59]

I helped a friend replace the lift pump on his 95 truck recently. His is 4x4 5-speed. It was a PITA. The rubber boot had dry rotted on his and dirt had entered around the plunger. More than the o-ring was bad on his, the whole shaft was loose on the primer plunger. It was sucking air and would not prime. We replaced his with me from above and him below. The sad thing is the replacement (OEM Cummins) is Made in freakin CHINA!!!!#@$%!
Yes, the 98 12 valve is the MOST PITA model year of the 12 valves to work on! It SUCKS to even replace a fuel filter!!!

 

[onstottc]

Sorry I can't be more help-- my truck is a 2 wheel drive. On mine, working underneath the car was easier.

 

[Hammer]

I do not have the lift pump issues anymore. Knowing that nothing on the 98's is easy to work on and the fact that I HATED hanging over the fender and twisting like Gumby to change the fuel filter lead me to an aftermarket fuel system on my truck. So the factory lift pump,pre-heater. pre-filter and fuel filter cannister are all now history. To change the fuel filter on mine now is easy,lay on the creeper back near the left rear wheelwell and twist the filters off and on. Its also a ton more cost efficent since they do not need changed at every service... ... . Andy