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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Lift pump is on it's way out.

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Mileage woes!

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I posted a while back that my lift pump did not work the first two times I tested it, and then pressured up on the third try. That was with a test gauge. I have since put a Dakota Digital gauge on it. I used a tapped banjo bolt on the vp44 inlet, and screwed the sender directly into it. When I started it, I had 13. 0 psi at idle, at wot with the comp turned off I got it down to 8psi. With the comp on level 5 it went down to 4. 4 psi at wot. I did not drive much this weekend and the pump worked as described every time I started the engine. This morning I started it, it spiked to 12. 5 psi then went down to 1. 2, and when I hit the throttle it would go down to 0. 0 and stay there. I drove 2 miles, turned off the engine and the same thing happened. When I restarted it spiked then went to 0. 0. A few minutes ago I went out and bumped the key, pump running, still only 2. 8psi. Shut it off and tried again, went straight to 13 psi, and worked fine until I got back here and shut it off. This has now happened with two different gauges, both at the same place. I put in a new fuel filter also. I can take my comp off and the dealership will put a new lift pump on it, or I can just put on a pusher and bypass the factory pos. Has anyone used the Holley Blue Max pump? Do I need to use a relay if installing this pump?
 
Stay away from the Holley pump. Several have tried it and they all died as I remember it. I've run then on off road vehicles in the past and they only last about 100 hours.
 
There have been a ton of posts on this subject. Bigsaint is currently trying out a PE4100 (https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39789). Some use the Carter, etc. It does look like you’re pump is showing the classic symptoms of turning into junk. The consensus is that the pump needs to be back by the fuel tank. You can either move it there or add a pusher pump. If you move the pump back to the tank, you can just extend the leads from the ECM that powers the OEM pump. If you add a pusher pump, you should use a relay. I would add that using a pusher pump MIGHT add excessive pressure to the VP-44. I would aim for a pressure level of about 12psi at the VP-44 with a pump that can sustain flow with a positive fuel pressure at WOT (Wide-Open Throttle). You have a lot of reading available to you if you do a search.
 
I have read it.

My main question in the original post should have been "Which lift pump is best ?" Also, I am not going to fork over $400 for a lift pump.
 
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I should have said pusher pump.

I have bought several lift pumps from cummins, for other vehicles. I am going to add an aftermarket pusher to my ride. Some of the ones that folks are using get way up there in price.
 
What about running a pusher alone?

I noticed that the Carter 4601 is rated at 15 psi. Would it hold up by itself, if mounted close to the tank and bypassed the old lift pump? Or do I need to get a new lift pump and add a pusher? I just noticed that this pump needs a regulator. Any suggestions?
 
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Chace



The Product Engineering PE4100 is pricey at 300. 00 to TDR members but there are a few things to concider.



It has a 2 year mfg warrantee



It is internally by-passed meaning it will not burn out if it is running and the engine is not



It is compatable wiyh diesel



its rated at 270 gph free flow (about 100 gph in our trucks)



and it is designed for continous use



I don't thing there are very many pumps out there that can make all those claims.



I did not notice your signature so I don't know what you have done to your truck or what you plan to do in the future, but I have always believed when it comes to performance that fuel is the most important item and should be taken care of first.



Good Luck
 
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