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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) lift pump move

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How easy is this? seems in theory to be pretty easy to me especially if you get one of the after markert wire harness/relay kits. Anyone use these? if so which one. How did you mount the pump the frame rail. Did you re-plumb everything or just splice in fuel line were the pump used to be. I'm going for reliability on this one so I need to know that it will make a difference, as it appears that it will.



thanks

J-
 
When my LP went out I went ahead and moved it to the outer framerail where it is about 8 inches from the tank supply. Just ran new hose to the filter so I can always put the truck back to stock for selling purposes. Worked flawlessly for 15,000 miles so far but that isn't that many miles. However with the mods I have I am not complaining. :)
 
Is it worth it?

Is it worth the work to move the pump? I am looking to make my truck as reliable as possible and the lift pump seems to be the weak link on our trucks.



I'm looking for info on mounting the pump to the rail and also if anyone has used one of the aftermarket harness/wire/relay kits suchas the one my Practical Diesel Solutions?



Also my pressure numbers are alittle on the low side and can get below the 8psi that CUmmins calls for at WOT. ALso Idle of 12psi is low, atleast from what others are showing at Idle. SHould I get a new lift pump right from the git go when I move the location?



ANy comments on this are appriciated.



J-
 
I just moved mine yesterday. I put the carter pump on the rail and ran a 1/2 line to the filter and ran a 3/8 line from the filter to the HP pump. Pretty easy job..... hardest part was finding 12mm adapters to an-6.



The only thing I don't like so far, 50 miles, is the constant hum of the pump. I have a short bed and was thinking that if it was the standard 8 ft that the pump would be farther from the cab and maybe not be so noticable while running.



FWIW: I am seeing 13-14 post filter



JC, I see you live in MI, if you like you can give me a call or take a look see at the set-up your thinking about doing.
 
Noise?

Breck, you sound like you are a canidate for some soundproofing!



Did you rubber mount the pump? If it is bolted directly to the frame it will sound like a dentist's drill running under your seat!!



Check out this thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com...40821&perpage=15&highlight=noise&pagenumber=1



There is a lot of reading there, but I can tell you that I cannot hear my added pusher pump from the inside of my truck, but it sounds like a bee's nest with the door open.



Greg L, The Noise Nazi
 
Pusher added VS Moving Original pump

JCyrbok, the only real issue about moving the original pump to the frame rail in front of the fuel tank is that most dealers would call this a engine/drivetrain modification and deny any warrantee on the rest of the drivetrain.



I added a pusher pump to the system, and it feeds 7psi up to the original stock location/mounted lift pump.



When I've had to take the truck into the dealer, I can remove the pusher in about 15 minutes, leaving only a length of rubber tubing in the spliced fuel line.



A dealer service manager will not listen to the history of lift pump failures or the obvious [to us] better location in front of the fuel tank, they only want to void our warrantee.



With a pusher pump feeding the factory pump, I expect to get 50K plus miles out of both pumps.



BTW: don't run the fuel level below 1/4 tank, it is possible to 'unport' the fuel pickup in the tank, and starve the engine for fuel. Just park on a steep hill and watch some deer and coyotes running around for a few minutes, that's all it takes!



Then you have the entire fuel system dry!! Now that's a SOB to fix!!



Hope this helps, BTW where in Michigan are you??



Greg L. The Noise Nazi
 
I moved mine...



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I used SS fuel lines and removed the stock system except for the fuel pickup in the tank. It was really not that hard. To mount the pump I used a bracket for holding stairs on decks... . you can get them at home depot, etc and they cost $3. They come galvanized so no problems. To power the pump I just extended the stock lines back to the pump and put the wires in wire loom. I see 15 psi at idle and 12 driving down the road. . at wot I get to 7-8.



I have a HP4061 that I am going to install soon, it comes with its own bracket and the pump runs $90 bucks...
 
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I have 20k on the 4601 I installed last spring. 15psi at idle and 13-14 at cruise, 10. 5psi at WOT.

The -6 to 12mm adapter the fits the filter housing is a Earl's 991944. You can find them at Summit or Jeg's. I think the Summit part # is EAR-991944. I used a Radio Shack 30amp automotive relay to run the new pump. I also used the LP pigtail, Cummins part # 4025182 to pick up the trigger (for the relay) at the LP wiring harness. Do a search, there are a "million" posts on this one.

HTH

Tom
 
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