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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) LIft pump precautions

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Valve adjustment

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) TST PM3 -> TST Comp

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Following the advice posted on the forums by those of you with greater experience with CTD I installed a fuel pressure gauge shortly after purchasing my 01. 5. I've noticed over the past few weeks lower pressures at idle (12-12. 5 vs. 14-14. 5) and at speed (10. 5-11 vs. 12-12. 5) so I'm considering just going ahead and replacing it prior to potentail failure. (It will easily pull down into the single digits if I put my foot in it).

Are there any suggestions/ precautions before or after the lift pump install I should be aware of? Thanks
 
That is about normal for F/P

a new pump will be around the same!

if you can i would go to a good aftermarket pump EX. (RASP or FASS)



Scott
 
As long as you are above 8 psi at wide open throttle, you will be fine.



Your pumps seems o. k. for now, but you might want to plan your replacement (stock or upgraded to FASS, Airdog, Rasp, etc... )



Thanks,

Jason
 
Go ahead and get the new lp and carry it as a spare. Make sure you carry the tools needed to change it as well.



I think it is a voodoo mechanical thing.



If you carry a spare and are ready to use it any time any place, then the orgional pump will never die. :D



Same with a ff.



Bob Weis
 
I've had the spare and the tools under the seat since the gauges. I've got the cookie jar marked "fuel system funds" set aside too (looking closely at the RASP system). Maybe I'm being overly concerned and don't want to be walking (or my lovely bride). Are oversized bango fittings worth the time?
 
oversize banjos do help, but if you are going with a new fuel system, most everything will be included and you will be throwing them away when the time comes.



If you are looking into the FASS pump only system, then I would go ahead and get some -6 lines from the filter to vp44.



But if you are looking at a full FASS system or RASP, then save your money and time. Those kits will replace everything up to your injection pump.



Thanks,

Jason
 
something obvious that has possibly been overlooked here is his fuel filter.



you said over the past few weeks its been lowering. have you replaced your filter lately? maybe its just getting to be time for that!
 
fuel pressure

prgilbert



Those pressure you stated don't seem too bad. Before installing a new LP I would install a new fuel filter. Even if it isn't time to do so, it just may be slightly clogged
 
just replaced my 4th. lp today. it had 70400 kms about 42000 miles. 30000 of those miles were in the stock location. balance in location back by tank. this pump is the strongest one ive had. pegs the Westach gage at 16psi. 14 psi at 75mph. i bought this one from local auto parts store. hope this one lasts a while.
 
FourBarR,



I notice you are in the cold country.



I wonder what the percentages of lp replacements are that are north of a certain line where it gets really cold in the winter and makes the lp work harder.



I wonder how many guys in the cold country have fuel heaters in the fuel line before the lp so the lp doesn't get thick fuel and have to work really hard to pump the fuel.



I wonder how many guys in the cold country have moved the lp to down by the tank so it can push instead of suck.



The truck SHOULD be designed so it can function anywhere it is sold, but ... .



Bob Weis
 
Types of boosters for lift pumps

Oil Burner,



What is the RASP fuel system?

How is it different than FASS or booster pump from Diesel Specilists?



Thanks,



Peter
 
Peter,



This is the RASP



It is a mechanical system that is belt driven and works with your stock lift pump. The stock pump is left in place for initial start up and may be triggered to turn on via a hobbs pressure switch should the RASP ever fail (like a broken belt).



Several members have run them and all seem to be very happy with it. ONly downside for me was the price.



The cool thing about the RASP is that it increases flow at the engine speed increases because it is belt driven. So when you need more fuel, it is there. Electric pumps like mine have to pump all fuel needed at wot all the time, even at idle. most of it is just returned to the tank. That is why the pressure drops as you accelerate with most electric pumps and some RASP pumps actually build pressure as you accelerate (depends on the amount of fuel you are running).





Thanks,

Jason
 
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rweis said:
FourBarR,



I notice you are in the cold country.



I wonder what the percentages of lp replacements are that are north of a certain line where it gets really cold in the winter and makes the lp work harder.



I wonder how many guys in the cold country have fuel heaters in the fuel line before the lp so the lp doesn't get thick fuel and have to work really hard to pump the fuel.



I wonder how many guys in the cold country have moved the lp to down by the tank so it can push instead of suck.



The truck SHOULD be designed so it can function anywhere it is sold, but ... .



Bob Weis



rweis, Good point! I thought I was just one of the "lucky" ones with a good LP. It's going strong at 65k. As I spend the winter months in Mexico... the truck rarely see's a cold day.

Really cold temps are brutal on all kinds of equipment. It would be interesting to see a comparison of LP failures in cold climates vs warm.

Mike
 
Jason,



Thanks for the post.

Where might I find out more info about that RASP system? What do the letters stand for?

Have you seen the information on the electric pump that Diesel Specialists sells?

I am trying to avert (for as long as possible) the dreaded failured lift and injector pump problems! That is why I am reading and asking questions.



Peter
 
can't remember the acronym, maybe something like "rotary axis supply pump" or something like that?????



I hear you about avoiding problems, the time to take care of them is now, not when they bite you!



As far as other pumps, I only have experience with the FASS so I won't comment on things I haven't run myself. I can only tell you what I know about them.



I saw another post you had about the circuitry and how the pusher wouldn't come on until the engine is started. That is a good point. Your vp44 doesn't like high pressure when the engine is cranking. if you watch your fp gauge, it will spike up when you turn the key on, then fall back down. then you crank and when it fires, the lp will give pressure. some people wire pumps to be "keyed on" and that can cause hard starts. Hwever, most reliable systems will be relayed into the factory system to be off when cranking. And the FASS does this. In fact, that is a reason the RASP keeps the factory lift pump, to give you that "bump" of fuel when you turn the key on.



Basically, read up through searches and pick the one you want. Airdog, FASS, RASP, etc... several are out there.



Thanks,

Jason
 
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