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I installed lift pump, used studs. I put the short ends of the studs in, let me know if the longer ends go into the block. I removed bleed screw and pumped the button, Im not getting any fuel. Help
You got the studs right, the shorter threads go in the block. They have nothing to do with priming. What "bleed screw" are you referring to, the one on top of the filter?
If the fuel line from the tank drained completely you may need to pressurize the tank to get some fuel to the pump in order to re-prime the system.
Yes, okay good. I was referred to use the same arm from the old pump because it was worn into the cam. Installed shorter end of studs and yes the screw on top of filter
Are you talking about the push rod? I guess as long as the old and new rods are the exact same length you're OK. I would have used the one that came with the new pump.
To pressurize the tank use a rag and compressed air in the filler neck. Doesn't take much pressure to push some fuel to the lift pump.
You do not have to take the banjo bolt out just crack it. The one toward the fire wall is the supply line to the filter, the one toward the grill is the supply line to the p7100. Actually it is better to crack the banjo bolt on the p7100 because it is bigger and won't strip as easy as the one on the filter.
Also are you getting resistance when you push the primer button.
A hammer handle works very good to push the plunger, just hammer with long enough handle.
Once you have fuel to the lift pump you do not need to have a line open.The overflow valve will open and bypass once you get fuel that far(you will hear it open)
I used to crack the banjo bolt/supply line to the filter but since I had a new overflow valve put in I push the primer button 15 to 30 times and do not crack any banjo bolts and Mule fires right up.