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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Lift Pump

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Hi, My fist time here. Love all the help given. Maybe some one can give me some. I have a 2001 2500 quad cab. Just took it to a local repair shop the have them replace the water filter they had a hard time getting a prime after it was installed they ended up having to pressureize the fuel tank to get the engine some fuel. they said the lift pump did cycle but did not get any fuel. they seem to think i need a new lift pump. Is there any way to test the pump? Any thoughts. Also is it something I could do myself? Is there any after market pumps as i am sure the cost from the dealer will break the bank!

thanks

Bob
 
Well, read the last 4 - 6 years of post.



Sounds like a lp. Often VP is close behind.



Any codes yet?



Get it from Cummins ~ $140



Bob Weis
 
Your LP is dead. There are many fuel pressure gauges available from dirfferennt places. I'd reccomend changing your pump for an aftermarket model. I just ordered a FASS today from Piers after my 3re stock pump. http://www.piersdiesel.com/ Give them a call and they will set you up properly!



John
 
The water filter is located right by the Blinker fluid resevoir on our trucks. :-laf (there are trucks with water filters tho



I beleive he meant fuel filter
 
Your lift pump may indeed not be dead. When I changed my fuel filter for the first time I didn't fill the housing with fuel as the shop manual says to do and the LP didn't prime. After I did fill it (I learn eventually) I also had to loosen the banjo fitting on the VP44 to bleed the air. The lift pump is self-priming supposedly but if it gets a bunch of air ahead if it I think it spins without pumping. After doing that i hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and it reads a nice steady 10psi.
 
If your left pump is weak it will do what you say. A healthy lift pump will fill the fuel filter canister in about 3, 25 second cycles. I had one in the shop yesterday that took about 20 cycles. Yes the lift pump is going to be changed out next week. Finally got it started though.
 
There is a TSB here that describes the procedure for testing a LP for flow volume.



Recommend you use a plastic tub or jug, and use water to fill the container with water to the minimum volume before running the test. Then it's easy to see if the LP pumped enough after you've filled the jug.
 
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rweis said:
Well, read the last 4 - 6 years of post.



Sounds like a lp. Often VP is close behind.



Any codes yet?



Get it from Cummins ~ $140



Bob Weis



Hi Bob,



Where do you call Cummins for this price? I called Collins, the Cummins dealer in Stockton, CA and they quoted me $288. Dodge wants $369.



Ed
 
My first call would be to Orlando Cummins Southeast.



My second call would be to RIp Rook at SourceAutomotive.com 866-211-1533



My third call would be to Ollie Poole at PowerByPoole.com



I will be happy to check on it if you want.



I will have one to sell in 2 weeks ($139, what I paid). I carry a spare (which will be the one for sale) as my RASP arrived yesterday, and I ordered my Summit plumbing fittings last night, and I have to install everything next week.



Bob Weis
 
Yes I know there are trucks with water filters, I have several on my farm, and I used to work during college as a diesel mechanic. But thank you for clearing that up.
 
Bob,



If you haven't bought a new lift pump yet, go get one from Napa (if you have a store nearby). They cost around $155 and are lifetime (they promise customer satisfaction = lifetime). If needed, I can find the part number for you.



As stated in other posts, install a fuel pressure gauge. At minimum, check fuel pressure at the injection pump inlet (screw pressure gauge onto test port fitting). I believe you'll have another test port fitting on the inlet port to the fuel filter housing. If so, you'll be able to check at both locations and it will help identify drop in fuel pressure (restricted/dirty fuel filter) from outlet of lift pump to inlet of injection pump. You can get the fuel pressure gauge with hose and applicable fitting for less than $30.





Dwayne
 
My stock lift pump read 13 psi at idle and went to 0 with any throttle. Supposedly the 13 at idle signals the pump is ok. Unless you monitor FP all the time you would never know you had a bad pump if you hooked up a temporary guage under the hood.



I installed a FASII pump. It reads 18 psi at idle and anywhere from 15-18 psi under load. Never goes below 15 psi at WOT with max boost.



Hardest part was removing slip on fuel connection at tank. Finally bought a $10 tool at Napa designed to facilitate these "quick" disconnects.
 
Hardest part was removing slip on fuel connection at tank. Finally bought a $10 tool at Napa designed to facilitate these "quick" disconnects. [/QUOTE]



Oh ya that fuel connection was a b!tch to get off! I agree :eek:
 
Don't know how many miles are on your truck and if it is under warranty or not, but if it isn't... go with a RASP. Basically, the RASP is a highly reliable mechanical system that "replaces" your stock (or replacement) unreliable lift pump. "Replaces" is in quotes because the stock lift pump remains should the RASP ever fail or fuel pressure drop below 8 psi, which it most likely will not... ever (or at least for a very long time :) ). The best part is that fuel pressure is dependent on RPM so with the RASP you will not experience a drop in fuel pressure at higher RPM or WOT. The pump can be a bit pricey but it beats replacing the stock pump time and time again. Do it once, do it right, do it with a RASP.
 
RASP - demand goes up with rpm, delivery goes up with rpm.



No thrust issues, no brushes, no armatures, no corrosion, no wire connections that either DO or DON'T.



Mechanical is a very good alternative.



Bob Weis
 
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