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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Lift the bed up or drop the tank?

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Well my truck needs the second fuel gauge float replaced in 52K miles. I've heard of tilting the bed and doing it that way (instead of the tank drop method) and I'm considering trying that. I've dropped the tank on this truck and my '96 before and that's no fun. Any inputs? How do you safely raise the one side of the bed and how far? I have a shop and overhead hoist also. Thanks for your help. Herb :confused:
 
Dropping the tank is easy, putting it back is horrible. I've done both methods and tilting the bed took half the time. I removed all the bed bolts except the two in the back and tilted it up about 3 feet in the front. Made it very easy, but you feel like a mouse playing in a trap. :eek: Make sure yo take out the spare tire winch rod so it doesn't bind up when you tilt the bed. Also make sure none of the wiring gets pulled out.
 
I ran my fuel tank almost empty and dropped it, which was very easy. Having someone to help you or two floor jacks make it very easy to get back in.
 
Taking the bed off requires lots of friends to help lift, and I really don't think it's any easier than just dropping the tank. I started to take off the bed, and my friend started working on the tank. He had the tank dropped by about the time I finished undoing the bed bolts with hand tools. Dropping/raising the tank only requires about two people, one if you're good, and have a floor jack.

Skyler
 
If droping the tank, does it help to pull the wheel liner to access the the hoses, and wire connections? My arm is little short and feeling doesn't do much either. I think my float is gone again.

Does anyone remember the old brass float that was round 1 1/2 by about2 1/2? The support wire just sliped around the middle. I cann't remember the application, but would like to find one and experiment with it.

Marv.
 
When I did mine, I took out the four bolts on the drivers side, took out the screws attaching the filler neck to the bed and just loosened the four bolts on the other side. Drop the spare tire for more room and use a 4x4 with a floor jack to lift the bed about 16 inches or so. Stack some wood between the frame and bed to be safe. Everything is easy to see and the connections on top of the tank are easier to take off as well. Good luck!



Nick
 
NHouse,

I'm thinking about trying it your way, only I have a hoist above that I may use to tilt the trap. (EEK! I meant bed!) Did you have any rear bumper clearance problems when raising it up. They look real close. I've taken the tank out of two Dodge CTD's and would like to try another way without catching it below. I'll be doing it solo. Seems nobody wants to get dirty. I thought of putting a round access door permanently through the bed like boat decks, but the float assembly is below a cross beam that supports the bed. Then it would be an easy access fix the NEXT TIME! Thanks, Herb
 
I just did the bed tilt method last week. With a shortbed, I had to pull all 4 bolts. I just put on an extension to my impact gun and the bolts were out in about a minute. lower the spare and pull out the tube that runs to the back. I cut a 2 1/2" notch on the end of a 2x6 so it would fit over the front cross member of the bed, put it over the floor jack and it couldn't slip off then while I was under. No clearance problems with the rear bumper or the cab. Be sure to tilt it far enough to pull the whole unit out straight up. I only was able to get it up so far and had to tilt it towards me and it dumped a bunch of No. 2 on my lap. Anyone know how to get diesel out of clothing?? :eek:
 
Pull the bed

I have done it three or four times now, only had help once. Use a impact wrench with long extension to get the six bed bolts out. My impact is electric and this part was easy. Remove ground strap from passenger side rear of cab to truck bed. Remove 3 screws from fuel fill. Now since I was alone I removed rear bumper. Takes 2 minutes with an impact. Now it is real easy to unplug tail lights and license plate lights. Bed can now be "walked back" and rested on rear tires. I put wood between the tires and the sharp bed ;) You now have excellent access to the tank.

I also partially dropped the tank once when I had the bed off. To get to the fuel lines between the tank and the frame rail. This was a PIA. Mind you my tank was 1/2 full but the brackets etc. are just difficult to remove. My take on it is that you can run the truck with the tank in place and the bed off to do some testing and insure you are leak free. Try running the system with a straight suction line in the tank thus bypassing the module. Watch the stream at the line to the VP (after removing it of course) You WILL notice a large difference in the stream by bypassing the tank module.

Oo.

This is the secret of our fuel troubles ;)
 
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