2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Lighting problems. Bad ground?

[JPulliam]

None of the three headlight switches work anymore. The stocker and the Borg Warner only operate the headlights, now. The el cheapo does not even let the headlights come on. I think I ruined them with the shorted green wire.

 

[RMcKinney]

Hi, My1995 2500 was doing that. The cause was one of the leads feeding the headlight switch wire was broken at the wire crimp. The insulation crimp was holding the wire close enough that sometime continuity was made some time not. Fix was to replace the switch receptacle and very glad I did. Rex McKinney

 

[JPulliam]

New headlight switch does the dame thing, so there is still something wrong with my wiring. I do not know where to go from here. Does the sparking give anyone an idea? Would the Haynes/Chilton manuals at the parts stores have a wiring diagram? RMcKinney, do you mean the spade connectors at the headlight switch? I am going to replace each connector right now.

 

[JPulliam]

The gauge lights are the interior lights I am speaking of. I found that the dash lights and parking lights draw power from the pink/red wire on the headlight switch. That wire gets power through fuse number 1 in the dash side use block. I have power in to that fuse, and the fuse is good. I do not have power at the headlight switch end of the wire. So, there is no continuity between the fuse block and end of the wire somewhere. Next step is tracing the wire, I guess. Is there any way to get that fuse block loose, or get behind it easily? It looks like I might have to disassemble the entire dash!

 

[RMcKinney]

Yes I do .

Napa sells a switch receptacle that has about 8" leads that matched my harness.

I cut the old receptacle off with about 3" of the factory harness so i would match the new wires to the old. Rex Mc

 

[JPulliam]

I had a bad connection in the fuse block. Tweaked the legs of the fuse a little, and got lights. Now, when I was wiggling the switch knob there was a spark, the fuse blew, and the lights went out. I believe the source of a ground is the case of the headlight switch, because the two wires that plug into the bottom of the switch are grounds. One has much more resistance than the other, though. I do not know where my power source is that is creating the spark. I have unplugged the ground wires underneath, and I have not blown a fuse. Any ideas where I might have a short? I cannot see any bad wiring on the headlight switch harness. Is there somewhere else I should be looking for the short?

 

[RMcKinney]

Don'

I don't really have anywhere to go from here.

I know that when the switch and its recepitical gets hot nothing really good comes from it. The only way I found the broken wire was to pull on it pretty hard.

I'm pretty sure when the harness is made we do an 18lb pull to check the wire crimping to make sure ie was tight.

You might check or change the dimmer switch.

Seems to me I changed it one time for the same problems you had.

Rex McKinney

I had a bad connection in the fuse block. Tweaked the legs of the fuse a little, and got lights. Now, when I was wiggling the switch knob there was a spark, the fuse blew, and the lights went out. I believe the source of a ground is the case of the headlight switch, because the two wires that plug into the bottom of the switch are grounds. One has much more resistance than the other, though. I do not know where my power source is that is creating the spark. I have unplugged the ground wires underneath, and I have not blown a fuse. Any ideas where I might have a short? I cannot see any bad wiring on the headlight switch harness. Is there somewhere else I should be looking for the short?

 

[JPulliam]

Yeah, I have changed it three times. I must be burning them up somehow.

 

[JPulliam]

I did find that when I wiggle the park lamp fuse on the side of the dash that the lights flicker, and I can get them to go out. Now, how do I get to the back of the fuse block to investigate further?

 

[RMcKinney]

Seems to me I could get to the Fuse Box Leads throught the dash with the Dash covers off. (Trim first then the dash).

eaiser if you tilt the steering Wheel.

Rex McKinney

 

[JPulliam]

Is there a procedure for removing that side of the dash? I tried the other night, but it seemed like I was going to be removing the entire dash from the IP.

 

[134x4ctd]

My 98. 5 just started flickering the lights the other night. I removed the headlight switch and found the connector melted to the switch. What causes this? Is there a better fix? Does anybody know the part # of the pigtail in either standard or napa? This connector had been replaced before. Is it melted because of too many lights on this circuit? This rig used to tow a horse trailer regularly. The trailer has a dozen or more clearance lights on it.

 

[JPulliam]

I could not find a part number or the connector. My problem turned out to be a loose connection in the park lamp fuse socket on the dash use block. As as as I can tell. I may be wrong, but doesn't the trailer get running light power directly from the battery through the trailer relay in the power distribution center under the hood. Better get a relay on tat thing before you melt something else. I know I am putting a relay in for the headlamps and the park lamps, now.

 

[RMcKinney]

J,

I did not have a P/N for the pigtail but NAPA found one.

One of my terminals (orginal factory harness) was a loose connection. I am sure that caused the heat under the load.

Replace the Switch Receptical and Switch after the Head Light Relay installation.

When you get done you will be damn glad you did. You will be able to forget about it and trust the new BRIGHT LIGHTS. RMcKinney 11-11-2008