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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission limited slip not limiting....

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission leaf spring bushings

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Just noticed it yesterday. One tire on wet pavement doing nothing, the other on snowpack just a spinning away.



Does this mean too much friction modifier or not enough? I'm due for a fluid change out. The last time I used... not Mopar oil but I did put their friction modifier in.
 
"Limited" is the key word here. It could be any number of things from lack of friction modifiers to worn out clutches in the LS. But try applying a little drag with the brakes & see if that gets it to kick in first.
 
Originally posted by BDMiller

"Limited" is the key word here. It could be any number of things from lack of friction modifiers to worn out clutches in the LS. But try applying a little drag with the brakes & see if that gets it to kick in first.



Only 43k on the truck, the clutches better not be worn out! Last fluid change was at 30k



I will try the brake thing today.
 
Originally posted by sticks

Only 43k on the truck, the clutches better not be worn out! Last fluid change was at 30k



I will try the brake thing today.



Yeah at 43k the clutches should be fine... hopefully.

A limited slip dif needs a little traction to function correctly. If one tire can slip all the power will still go to it. When you brake a little you slow down the slipping & the clutches usually engage & you should feel it. Some folks use the parking brake for this but I just use the brake pedal. It should not take much brake pressure. If this doesn't work take a look at the fluid.

Good luck & let me know if this works.
 
Originally posted by BDMiller

"Limited" is the key word here. It could be any number of things from lack of friction modifiers to worn out clutches in the LS. But try applying a little drag with the brakes & see if that gets it to kick in first.



Just clarifing, If the LSD is slipping too much it means there is too much friction modifier in the oil not lack of friction modifier. It could also be the LSD is wearing out.



When you change fluid next time put in just the fluid then go out to a large parking lot and do some figure 8's. If the rear end binds or chatters then add a few ounces of friction modifier, repeat the figure 8's and adding friction modifier until the chatter goes away. Only add a few ounces at a time.



Ron
 
My conclusion is anyone with a manual transmission will not have a good limited slip. The reason is the Dana 80 has a trac-loc lsd and it isn't worth beans. I have had two of these lsd's before and they are junk. My power-loc in my Dana 70 is awsome. I have 113K miles on it and can still put one tire in mud and one on pavement and leave a black mark to my satisfaction. My advice is get a better lsd and it will work like you want it.
 
My conclusion is anyone with a manual transmission will not have a good limited slip.



It’s just the opposite for me. I think my limited slip is too good, to the point where it will hop around corners, especially when wet. It is real easy to get sideways with. I’m not complaining though, Id rather have it stuck shut than open:D



Brandon
 
if you're using a fluid rated for limited slip differentials, there's no need to add additional friction modifier.



hopefully a fluid change will fix it. if not, a diff rebuild shouldn't be too tough if it's a clutch style diff (never been inside one of these Danas)



Forrest
 
My limited slip is poor as well. I would really like to put an air locker in but they are kinda spendy. I thought about renting myself out as a male Gigolo but so far that only netted me $2. 63 in the last five months.
 
I agree with Ramified, but not about the manual part. We've have a couple of 2500's with limited slip and they work just about like a locker. I can have my truck with one tire on dry tar and the other on gravel and they'll both spin the same. That was true with the other 2500s too. On the 3500 models they didn't even seem to really work. On my dad's 98 when I changed the fluid I didn't even put in any friction modifier (amsoil) and it still didn't seem much better. I think it's because you have a 3500 that it isn't working like you would like. From the posts that I've read on here about the limited slip not working, they mostly all seem to be 3500s. Did it ever work good? I know ours didn't. If it did then maybe they wear out quickly??? I wonder how the new trucks are with the different axles?

Corey
 
Change LSD in late 1980s

I bet you will find few of us older trucks Dana 80 or 70, 2500 or 3500 complaining about our factory LSD's. I believe (I think I actually read it here) the LSD clutchs or something was changed sometime after 1997. Prior to that they are awsome bordering on to grabby.



My 1996 is totally factory original with lots of very heaving towing miles and over 200K miles. Oil samples have been great. I still need TWO bottles of Additive to keep it quiet after a change and it is solid under any traction conditions. I have never had a better system (versus Ford - Chevy).



I also have a 2001 work truck and it started to slip (to much additive I think) at about 30K miles.



I think the newer trucks need to really watch how much additive you add (if any).



JMHO.



jjw

ND
 
sticks



on the dana 80's 3500's the clutchs need to be re stacked . there are some threads on this somewhere. another member is going to do mine for me when i get up to see him. its stacked somthing like clutch-plate-clutch-plate-clutch-clutch-clutch-plate-plate-plate or somthing like that. so it needs to be clutch-plate-clutch-plate-clutch-plate-clutch-plate-clutch-plate-clutch-plate- and thats what ive been told and read.



ed
 
I did the retack on my 3500 2wd so that there are 6 active on each side. It is a spool now. No LSD at all. It is great for traction, but hell on tires. I destroyed a set of tires in 2k miles. Unfortunately, there is not an ARB for the D80 with 4. 10 gears. It looks like I'm going with the Detroit, unless I decide to swap out gears.
 
Well my 99 LSD lasted 110,000 miles. I noticed the pass side rear tire was wearing out faster than the other side. New clutches and more amsoil fixed that problem.
 
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.



I tried the brake thing and that did not work so well. Out of habit, when the tires start slipping, I let of the throttle, and the truck just idles the one tire. Applied a little throttle and that seemed to help a little.



When I flush out the rear, I will try no modifier at first and drive it around and add a little at a time.



Restacking the clutches is definitely way out of my skill range, and a bit too expensive to pay to do it... obviously so will be installing a locker.
 
Originally posted by Straight6Jeff

I did the retack on my 3500 2wd so that there are 6 active on each side. It is a spool now. No LSD at all. It is great for traction, but hell on tires. I destroyed a set of tires in 2k miles. Unfortunately, there is not an ARB for the D80 with 4. 10 gears. It looks like I'm going with the Detroit, unless I decide to swap out gears.



did you try any modifier to help free it up ? i was told that i would have to add some modifier after the restack because like you said it would grab real good. you got me worried about doing it now.



ed
 
I am running the Valvoline semi-synthetic, and two bottles of friction midifier... still a spool. I love the traction, but the tire wear is brutal. I thought about restacking and loosening it up a little, but I think I'll save time and just go with a detroit.
 
It seems to be hit or miss as to which trucks got the powr-lok and which got the track-lock. A friends 97 as well as my 98. 5 (both 5 speeds) both have the powr-lok and they work awesome. My service manual clearly shows that I should have the track-lock though. Glad I've got the one I do!
 
Originally posted by Straight6Jeff

I am running the Valvoline semi-synthetic, and two bottles of friction midifier... still a spool. I love the traction, but the tire wear is brutal. I thought about restacking and loosening it up a little, but I think I'll save time and just go with a detroit.



Did you use the Dodge modifier? I have a 99 or 2000 LSD in mine. I drove it around (no figure 8's) for about 6-8 weeks and the rear started shaking on corners, 1 oz on the Dodge stuff healed it. It is still in the stock stack.



The name Power-Loc and Trac-Loc depend on which diff you have, a 70 or an 80.



They did change the plate order as mentioned above and it's pretty straight forward to correct it. As I recall you'll get 1 or 2 more plates engaged but there will still be a plate not doing much. Another member posted about buying a plate kit and using the leftovers to correct his set up, was that you Jeff?
 
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