Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) line lock / roll control

[vc]

some of you saw in my recent parking brake adjustment post that I am going to get one of these line lock or roll control devices for my truck to help hold the truck while at the boat ramp. Well I ordered what I need today from Summit Racing and I have a question. This device basically install in-line on the brake line you want to control. So if I want to lock my front brakes when I activate this, should I install it into the line between the master cylinder and what looks like a proportioning valve, or after the valve?

Thanks.

vc

 

[vc]

anyone?

 

[vc]

Just to verify, can anyone confirm for me that of the two lines coming out from the master cylinder and into the proportioning valve the rear one is for the front brakes?

thanks.

vc

 

[Taz]

Originally posted by vc

Just to verify, can anyone confirm for me that of the two lines coming out from the master cylinder and into the proportioning valve the rear one is for the front brakes?

thanks.

vc

I do not believe so, they are supply lines, one from eacy piston in the master cyclinder.



A line lock should probably be installed after the proportioning valve, so that the fluid has no chance to leak into the other circuts throught he valve.

 

[DHRA]

drop Steve St. L a PM, he has this already done. He will be with me at the Black Mountain Diesel grand opening this weekend. I will try to mention it to him.

 

[Ted Constantine]

I would like to hear how Steve has his set up as well. It should be pretty easy but definitely do it after valve.

 

[zjones]

Vc what did the parts cost you?? I've been considering putting one on my truck for a while now. I currently use cards to jam the brake controller on.

 

[vc]

zjones,

I paid about $150 with shipping,BUT I did get the better unit that Summit Racing had in their catalog. I could have gotten out of there as low as around $67. These prices are the solenoid line locks which are rebuildable, and a brake line kit that has multiple lines and fittings to help me make the connections.



S & J'd,

I'll send Steve an email.



Taz,

the reason I was looking before the proportioning valve is because this is where I saw it on a picture of a Corvette that had one installed this way. I just wanted to make sure which line is which coming out of master cylinder. I figure the larger of the two reservoir is the front brakes as disks usually have a larger need of fluid.



Thanks.

vc

 

[Deezul1]

Boat ramp? yea right, front wheels locked only? I see some burnouts coming up. Cool get some video.

 

[vc]

well I have installed almost everything - just the lines to go but they are made up and ready. I need to get brake fluid for bleeding after installing the lines, and I need to get a small led light to connect to the switch to show when the system is active. Maybe tomorrow I'll get the fluid and light and finish up if I can get my better half to help me bleed the brakes.

When everything is done I'll take some pics to post in case anyone is interested.

vc

 

[Demon Dodge]

The rear line on the master cylinder feeds the front brakes. Put the line lock in the line before the proportioning valve. most parts stores have brake line if the kit didn't come with it. The master cylinder fitting is an oddball size but you can take the line off a truck at the local pic a part and save your original in case you ever need to change it back.

Good Luck, Rod

 

[vc]

Demon Dodge,

That's where I have it set up to go. I ordered a brake line kit with the line lock that came with several lengths of brake line that had 3/16 ( I think) fittings on each end, along with half a dozen adapters of various sizes. Hopefully a couple of those adapters will cover both the master cylinder and the valve.

Those anyone know what the size fittings are that go on the rear master cylinder line and the fitting going into the proportioning valve are?

thanks.

vc



p. s. - does anyone know for sure if I have to bleed all four brakes or can I only bleed front brakes if I open the line for the front brakes between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve?

 

[vc]

update

latest update on my line lock quest. I finished install of the Hurst roll control today, bled the brakes and check it out. At first they worked great - the truck would not budge forward or backwards except with lots of go pedal. I thought great!! Then I backed out of garage and rolled back and forth on drive way and again checked the line lock. Still holding good - no wait, the truck is moving - aarrgghh!!, what now? So I check all the lines for leaks - all ok. Aarrgghh!! Call Summit tech support and explain situation and they were thinking either the switch was getting hot and loosing amperage to the solenoid causing bleed down or the solenoid itself getting with same result. The switch is fine - it feeds a relay to power solenoid. The solenoid is quite hot.

So for anyone interested in using a Hurst roll control for more than about 20 - 30 seconds at a time - fugedabaudid!! It's only for momentary use.

I found another source in California that has some they market specifically for use as short term parking brakes with one person leaving them on thirty some odd hours one time with no bleed down. I will try these next.

vc

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Sorry guys, I just came across this thread. I've been distracted by shoulder problems that have sent me to two different doctors and physical therapy - and now I'm on drugs that have me forgetting several hours a night - but I've put a post it on the computer screen to remind me about this tomorrow. I'll take pics of my install tomorrow. I'm using a TCI roll control - but it does state a maximum of 60 seconds of use at a time. Mine is plumbed in after the proportioning valve. One of the problems that many will hit is that if you have 4 wheel ABS then it will be a tricky install. The ABS system has two seperate lines for each of the front tires, so if you want to use it for burnouts you'd have to use two roll controls on each line I think. I don't have schematics or a manual covering the 4w ABS system - I'm just going from trucks I've looked at. In my case I only have rear wheel ABS so it was no biggie. I'll try to take pictures tomorrow so you can see how I hooked mine up. For longer term use as you may be looking for on a boat ramp there are some manual control brake locks that you could use, the problem with those is that you will have to run a brake line into the cab to the brake lock and then back out of the cab to the brakes.

 

[vc]

Hi Steve.

I wanted to keep the install sort of inconspicous nd so I had drilled a couple holes in the proportion valve to mount the Hurst Roll Control on. Then I plumbed the lines from between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve, runing the new lines between the other lines already there. It looked pretty good/clean. Like I said above, for a very short time it worked super. But then it got hot and would not hold. One good thing about plumbing it before the proportioning valve is that it gave me added warning when the line lock was active because the brake warning light and the abs light also came on.



The other company I found on the internet out of California is www.porkbarrelengineering.com and like I mentioned above I talked to the main man and he does the windings on the solenoid so that it can be active much longer without giving or burning up. Check out the website.

vc