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List your Dream Rig ...

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Diesel & Gas Prices Shooting through the roof again!

Glow Plugs = why do the others use them???

1998 12V 4x4 - 6 Speed Conversion

Bright Yellow w/ orange Goast flames all paint from House OF Kolor with "Killer B" rat pack style decals on the sides of the bed

Working Cowl Hood

Kore Recon System

TWIN'S

BANKs intercooler

Snow Water METH

NOS Fogger

Buck Stopper Front and rear "BBD Style"

17" Fancy Rims with Mudders

LineX Bed Liner

4k GSK

TST plate

Pump Ballanced from JD Akins

Injectors " Fire Hydrant stlye"



Total Cost - ??????? $60,000 - $80,000 probly









Thats My Dream Rig



DM
 
truck in sig w/ 37 spline axels, built transmission, selectable lockers front and rear, mickey thompson classic 2 beadless rims, 35'' muds, motor built for pulling w/ 215 race pump, twins, cherried interior w/ kick *** stero, custom grill and bumpers front and rear, winch, thats all i can think of at the moment
 
Frieghtliner Columbia with a Cummins/Ali auto converted to about a 40' motorhome with a 10-12' garage. :D



Then I could sell this Dodge tinker toy and toy hauler TT and arrive in style, on time and in one piece. And wouldnt have to listen the kids complaining. LMAO
 
You don't listen to your kids anyway Todd. :-laf



I think his name is J. R. Adkins. J/K DieselMinded gotta keep up that friendly G-O-E-R-E-N-D BROTHERS rivalry. :D



Oh yeah my ideal truck is in the garage. Maybe just a little more h. p. and a few less miles. Thanks Todd.
 
Not in any particular order:

(1) 4500, 5500 or 6500, 7-speed 4x4, Cummins



(2) Jeep Wrangler diesel, manual transmission



(3) mini truck (Ranger, D-50, S-10, Nissan, Toyota) with a diesel



(4) Mercedes E320 CDI inline 6 with manual transmission or Mercedes or BMW SUV with inline 6 diesel with manual transmission



(5) Full size SUV with inline 6 diesel power.





Jeep Wrangler/diesel/manual transmission is my first choice for a "dream".
 
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Suds

My perfect rig?



Would also like a 65 Buick Riviera GS. with a new BB NOs



Uh. . right now just having a new truck is still really cool, but



Twins

TST

Ricksons

Clutch

30' 5r and retired.



Still like Sara. .
 
Not that kind of ride. But Sara sure is purty. :--) Hmm 4 trannys 4 tires 4 motors, 4 turbos. Might be onto something there MieselDinded. Super Modified Class look out.
 
TravisG said:
Not that kind of ride. But Sara sure is purty. :--) Hmm 4 trannys 4 tires 4 motors, 4 turbos. Might be onto something there MieselDinded. Super Modified Class look out.

4 turbos???? you mean 8 turbos 2 for each motor



lol yeah sara is purty alright
 
01. 5 3500 4x4 club cab SLT Plus in Deep molten red

ETH/DEE

Ranch Hand front bumper

Ranch Hand wrap around rear bumper

Ranch Hand Hauler Headache rack and rails

BHAF

ATS exh. Manifold

4 inch exhaust with a straight thru muffler

Exhaust Brake

B&W Turnover Ball

Tekonsha Brake control (probably a Prodigy)

Stock Tires & wheels

FASS

Pyro, Boost, and FP guages



I think that's it.

Not anywhere near as wild as your guy's dream rigs, but mine would be a towing machine.
 
Dream Rigs!!!!!

My current truck with an additional 100 or so hp. and a full DTT to use it. And a 1970 Hemi `cuda, while I`m dreaming. DK.
 
When most people think of their "dream truck" they think about big power or big accessories. I think what I'd rather have is a truck with things like:



-No rivets anywhere. Only welds or threaded fasteners



-No self-tapping screws anywhere



-No plastic "weatherpak" electrical connectors - only aluminum environmentally-sealed circular connectors. I hate plastic electrical connectors - they always seem to break when you remove them.



-No "push-on" "quick disconnect" fluid couplings. Only AN (jic) fittings.



-No grade-5 (and below) threaded fasteners. Only stainless steel fasteners or grade 8.



-More use of corrosion-resistant materials like aluminum (which oxidizes, of course, but not catastrophically like steel). I'd love to see frame rails made out of solid cast aluminum or, even better: titanium ($$$).



-Accessibility. What I mean is, body panels that are designed to be removed quickly and easily for access to components for maintenance. And body support structures that are positioned to allow for things like easy engine and transmission removal. I'd love to be able to pop a couple stainless steel bolts out of my front body work to remove it for access to the sides of the engine (sort of like a big rig with the hood tilted forward). How about the ability to completely remove the body from the vehicle with just 1 or 2 electrical connectors and several bolts?



-No more stamped steel structural components. Use either cast aluminum or cast iron (personally, I'd rather have a nice set of cast iron control arms than stamped steel or cast aluminum - I don't care how much they weigh).



-No more stamped steel body panels. I'd much prefer a strong fiberglass body that never rusts and can be repaired cheaply. I still think Saturn had a good idea. But don't bond the panels to the substructure - bolt them. And make the substructure from aluminum.



-Include a backup manual mechanism for electrical systems like power windows and electronic transfer cases.



-Stop using battery cable - use welding cable instead. It's more flexible and easier to work with.



-Eliminate the starter motor and use a switched-reluctance starter/generator (this is already starting to happen) on the accessory drive.



-Integrate engine accessories to minimize the size and complexity of the belt and mounting hardware on the front of the engine. It would be awesome to see a single belt running an accessory drive transmission assembly containing alternator, water pump, and P/S pump. The transmission would be bolted to the side of the engine block (or perhaps the transmission) and each of the accessories would be removeable for service. Perhaps include a low-horsepower PTO port on it.



-No hose clamps. Only compression fittings, AN fittings, or bayonet-style couplers.



-A fuel tank with a drain on it.



-No plastic radiator drain valves. Use brass ball valves.



-No gas tank straps mounted directly to the frame. Instead, strap the tank to an aluminum "tray" that can be unbolted from its support structure and lowered.



-No more rubber. Only urethane.



-No more of those plastic interior trim retaining pieces. You know, those things that look like a fir tree and never fit back together quite right after they're removed once. I suppose if I designed an interior there'd be little bolt heads showing everywhere. :-laf



-No more snap-together anything. It either bolts together or it's not on the vehicle.



-For trucks, no more carpet on the floor or the headliner. Or at least make "carpet and headliner delete" an option independent of trim package.



-No adhesive-backed tape anywhere. Especially not electrical tape.



A truck built like that would be my "dream truck". I suppose it would also weigh 20k pounds and cost as much as a Porsche 911 Turbo. But it would be bomb-proof and easily serviced.



Some day I'll take a vehicle, tear it down to the frame, and rebuild it the way I really want it. Probably the day after I win the lottery [mental note - start playing the lottery].



And Traildog - a Defender rebuilt from the ground-up with a 4bt is my personal dream vehicle. :cool:



-Ryan
 
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Ryan's got my number.

I'll just add a couple things:

--No steel anywhere. Anything made in steel can either be made lighter in Aluminum or better in Titanium. I'll accept magnesium on the wheels. . Aluminum block and heads on my Cummins would make me very happy.

-- Body panels should all be composite. Fiberglass is ok (cheap), but a newer Kevlar composite that weighs less would be ideal.


Other genalizations:

-- Like Ryan, I think the whole truck should be modular, and easily disassembled with NO SPECIAL TOOLS. Yes, you might be removing lots of bolts, but at least you CAN.

-- These trucks could be a LOT lighter with no compromise in strength or reliability whatsoever. My truck should no more than 5000lb, not 6800lbs if they didn't cheap out and use steel for so much.

-- On my dream truck, paint would be OPTIONAL, because there wouldn't be any part of it that's subject to rust.

-- Why did our trucks still use leaf springs? Hello!! It's covered-wagon technology. Meanwhile, we've managed to improve even the lightbulb (LED lights). Which reminds me:

-- LED LIGHTING EVERYWHERE. Dash, interior, tail, stop, turn light. Headlights will have to be HID.

-- Why do we still use solid axles? Why can't we get we get a REAL suspension, with a specially-built beefy IRS/IFS?? All the fastest Baja 1000 vehicles do NOT have solid axles. Properly built, it would be as strong if not stronger. Which reminds me...

-- Why do we still have central differentials? Hello! Put the gear reduction in the hubs via planetary gears. This cuts a lot of weight and makes everything in the driveline stronger.

-- With proper layout and engineering, the truck could be plumbed almost entirely with hardlines. Think aircraft. It it isn't hardline (with insulated clamps) or braided stainless, it doesn't belong. I'll settle for socketless AN fittings. Banjo fittings and pipe threads are STRICTLY VERBOTEN!



There you have it, an uber-lightweight aluminum honeycomb and kevlar composite bodied truck with sweet suspension front and rear and not a single ounce of ferrous metal!!!

jmo
 
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