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Load Range D or E???

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Ok- Let the flaming begin, but I am a little pissed :mad: at the local tire guy, who sold me a set of 265x75x16 D tires. I was recently shopping for a 5er and the guy brought it to my attention. I guess to tell the truth I never paid that close attention. What is the difference in the load range between D and E, and better yet, am I going to have trouble as a result? I pland on towing a 30' 5er approx 9000 lbs. Am I screwed? Should I go back and demand they make it right because they are the "experts"???



Kev:( :(
 
Dkevdog

Check the weight capacity stamped on the tire, its prolly good for at least 2500lbs per tire=5000lbs per axle. I think the back axle weight unloaded is maybe 1500lbs or less so whats the tongue weight on the new trailer? you may be ok. To bad you arnt closer I would buy you tires, they would work well for me.

Good Lu
 
It will really depend on the load rating of the tire. Your tires should tell you the maximum load at full inflation. The load range (D or E) is almost meaningless, except for the number of sidewall plies (stiffness. ) I feel comfortable running load range D tires, for the reasons listed below:



My 285's are load range D, but they are rated for 3,400 lbs at 65 psi. This gives me a total rear capacity of 6,800 lbs. Remember, the axle weight rating is 6,500 lbs. This load rating is higher than the stock tires that come with the truck.



So if your tires are rated at 3,000 lbs, then as the game show says, "You [the tires] are the weakest link. " But, if your tires are rated above 3,250, then the axle becomes the weakest link.



Based on my truck's front axle weight (4060 lbs) I have about 4,740 lbs of rear axle capacity before I exceed GVWR. Even if I go to 10,000 lbs, my rear axle would only need to carry 5,940 lbs. Thus, 2 tires capable of each carrying 3,000 lbs would handle the load. I suspect that your truck would have very similar front and year axle weights. If you tires indicate a load rating of 3000 lbs or greater, you should be fine.
 
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I have a 3500 dualy with the tow and camper package and it came stock with the "E" (10 ply) tire. My fiver has the "E" tire as well. I even considered going to an "F" or even "G" on the fiver. I have had about three blow outs on it the past 7 years tha took off the skirting and damaged the side of the trailer. I don't think you can get too heavy of a tire. The "E" sould be my choice.



I have a neighbor who bought a travel trailer that had "D" tires on it and he blew all four out in two short trips. He has gone to the "E" now and has no further problems.



Dewdo in the other Washington
 
Originally posted by Scollins

... So if your tires are rated at 3,000 lbs, then as the game show says, "You [the tires] are the weakest link. " But, if your tires are rated above 3,250, then the axle becomes the weakest link. ...



May I gently and respectfully remind my fellow readers that there is more to it than just tires and axles?



The wheels have a weight rating that can limit capacity. The springs have a weight rating that can limit capacity. The bolts holding stuff together have their limits. Even the frame has its limits.



Here's a list I think (SWAG) shows components ordered by increasing capacity:

  1. tires
  2. wheels
  3. springs
  4. bearings (axle)
  5. frame
  6. bolts

Doesn't make much sense to put on tires that are better than the wheels and expect to carry tire-limited loads. You could find wheels badly bent.



You *can* install higher-rated tires to carry the same load and expect the tires to last longer, because they generate less heat during operation.



Fest3er
 
Originally posted by fest3er





May I gently and respectfully remind my fellow readers that there is more to it than just tires and axles?



Fest3er



That is a very good point. However, the factory sets the axle loads based on the weakest link of the system. I don't know which component is the weakest link. However, if you upgrade a component of the system to a rating higher than the listed capacity, you know THAT component is no longer the weakest link. I don't feel it changes the overall rating of the system, but eliminates a weak link.



As I noted above, it would take over 10,000 lbs of GVW to exceed the rear axle rating, based on the actual weight of my truck. I realize this is 1,200 lbs over the specified GVW for my truck. Recent articles in the TDR magazine from Earthroamer.com, indicate that the frames, springs (and presumably, bolts) are the same for the 2500 and 3500 series trucks. Based on this information, I conclude that the rear axle weight rating is a function of the axle itself (Dana 70 or 80), the wheels and tires. I can't change the axle, so the only components that I can change are the wheels and tires. I would prefer to change the tires and wheels to those which have a listed load capacity higher than the specified weight rating of the axle. Again, I don't think changing these components increase your capacity, just changes which component becomes the weakest link.
 
our new 3500's have an extra top overload spring that our pre 2000 duallys didnt. that makes them sit higher than the previous duallys that weve had, and weve had to change our goosenecks to make sure that the trailers are riding level and not putting all of the weight on the rear axle of our trailors. our trailers all have an corkscrew type of adjustment at the neck of the goose that enables us to adjust the level of the trailer to each different truck that its attached to. we also have added two more 15\16 bolts and nuts to keep the sleeve from having a back and forth motion during stopping and starting. ive had the necks of three trailors shear off because of an uneven load dist and it aint pretty. our ford 550' s taught us this lesson, because they sit so much higher than our rams. the biggest thing about a dually vs a regular 2500 truck is that you have two more tires, wheels, brakes, over the axle. thats where the weight is . thats also why weve put an extra axle under many of our trailers, distribution of weight is the key. ive seen semis hauling oversize loads with as many as ten axles, and thats why.
 
My truck weighs 4560 front and 2780 rear, with a 1/4-tank of fuel. GVWR is 8800, so that leaves about 1460 if I don't put too much fuel in it. If 16% of the 9000-pound trailer weight is on the hitch, that's 1440, for a total axle weight of 4220, or 2110 per tire.



Even adding 25% for a safety factor, you're still only 2640 or so. That ought to be within your tire range. I think the limiting factor here is the GVWR. As fest3er pointed out, there are a lot of factors to consider.



Ethdee



P. S. My door jamb sticker has axle ratings with LT245/75R-16-E tires and 7. 5" rims, yet my truck came with 265s and 8" rims. Does anyone have a sticker that lists 265 tires and/or 8" rims? I'm wondering if they made a mistake on mine.
 
The tires are rated at 3000lbs max load, so based on the math you're all doing it would seem I should be ok- although I am going to call the tire co tomorrow and see if they'll consider taking them back if I pay the difference to get the E rated tire. Probably won't stand a chance, but it's worth a try- especially considering all of the lawsuits lately about tire blowouts...



Kev
 
I weighed on a CAT scale and the front axle was 4200 lbs and the rear was 2560 lbs for a total of 6760 lbs. I was in the truck so deduct 180 lbs for approx weight of 6600 lbs empty. I don't think you will have any problems with too much weight with the trailer.
 
OEM tire load ratings

Here are the load ratings for the OEM tire sizes of the 2500 and 3500 trucks:



LT245/75R16E - 3042 lbs @ 80 psi

LT265/75R16E - 3415 lbs @ 80 psi

LT215/85R16D - 2150 dual/2335 single @ 65 psi

LT215/85R16E - 2470 dual/2680 single @ 80 psi

LT235/85R16E - 2778 dual/3042 single @ 80 psi
 
load range D or E

I think the manufacturer is talking about their spring package when they refer to 'axle rating' rather than the axle assembly itself. Our Dana's may be rated higher in other applications than DC rates it.



I also think the axle ratings not adding up to the GVW rating is neither unusual or incorrect. Depending on the load center of gravity, you could load a dually to the maximum rear axle rating while lightening the front end! All you have to do to achieve that is place the entire load behind the rear axle. What they are saying is that you can load up to this GVW if you do not exceed either the front or rear axle ratings.



A larger tire built identically to a smaller size will be able to carry more weight for any given pressure because the footprint is bigger. The identical build means both of these hypothetical tires are the same load range. The load range sets the limits of inflation pressure. You should always use a wheel rated for the same maximum pressure as the load range of your tire. Finally, if the tire is underinflated for the load it is carying it will fail regardless of its load range.



That'll be two cents please!
 
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