Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Locknstitch that cracked 53 block?

[Sled Puller]

I did a search on this and only found one member who tried it a few months ago. (I brought that thread to the top. )



Anybody else familiar with this repair?

 

[jwilliams3]

Gene,

Do you have a cracked block?

 

[Sled Puller]

Why do you ask? Who do you work for? Is Gullet or Tomac paying you? :-laf :-laf

 

[jwilliams3]

You should just buy the 12 Valve out of classifieds on DTR.

 

[ctd8999]

LocknStitck

Gene, I repaired my cracked 53 with this method, however if I run the truck real hard (drag race or dyno) it will push a small amount of coolant out the repaired area. It might have used a quart of coolant the whole Indy weekend drag raced, dynoed and drove from Pitts. to Indy and back. Thanks Steve B.

 

[Sled Puller]

Do you think it kept cracking after you repaired it?

 

[ctd8999]

LocknStitch

No I think it may be leaking around some of the pins. I should take the turbo and trans cooler off and pressure check to see exactly whats going on, the crack was about 10"s long can't go too much more. Thanks Steve B.

 

[hensign]

I am currently doing this repair. I will post a couple of pics later hopefully. This looks to be a good fix for the problem although I am a little leary that mine may crack more and I will be in there doing another repair, my crack was only about 3 inches long, AF use was about a quart every 400 miles. I guess I cought it early??? I should have mine back together by monday eve, I am working with the motor in the truck but am doing the headgasket at the same time, It was weeping near the back of the head.



I know I was hoping that "this will never happen to my truck. " But here is a little eye opener L&S has obviously sold sooo many of these kits they are packaged in a neat little toolbox with a custom 5. 9l Cummins label. Get yours now and keep it under the back seat... ... ... . But seriously this looks to be THE fix, just short of replacing the motor or yanking the block and having it welded. If you want to see something sad check out the Cummins powered International getting an extensive repair to the crack area after a failed attempt to weld the block. SCARY!!! Not for the faint of heart

http://www.locknstitch.com/Repair pdf files/Custom truck with cracked 5.9 block.pdf

It also shows how the pins go in in an undamaged part of crack.

Approx 50 pins will fix a 10" crack

 

[Scrappy]

how does it work to seal the crack? I think i understand the rest.

 

[Sled Puller]

We are going to try it.

After talking to the owner of L&S, I think its the only possible solution besides replacing the block(not an option) using stop leak and selling/trading/(not very nice to next guy ) or keep addingwater,complaining about it on the internet, and demanding a class action lawsuit. ( )



It looks time consuming, and you have to drill the holes very square, but they claim it is permanent.



The way I understand it, the threads over lap one another, and are designed to pull the crack together, not spread it apart like a bolt would.



They are selling 2 kits a week, for the 5. 9.

 

[brianMo]

I want to give you my testimony. I had mine done in feburary. It is still holding to date. It has made a believer out of me. I tryed to get Cummins to reinburse me for my $700. 00... mostly labor charge. Not an approve Cummins fix. They will only help on replacement of the block. I am so glad I did not put out the major $$$. If you do not have the guts to do this yourself I know the guy that can do it in North Central Missouri.



Brian

Missouri

 

[Sled Puller]

Thanks Brian.

I watched the DVD that came with the kit yesterday, they do a similar process on a cracked head- IN A VALVE SEAT!!

 

[hensign]

Figured I would post this here... ...

I did the repair this weekend, took 7-8 hours total after I got done worrying about drilling the block. Here are a few tips for anybody planning on doing this.



When you order the kit get a couple of extra bits and taps, In my case 7" was 26 holes. If you have them you will not have any problems of course but if you dont... .....

Dont be nervous about drilling cast iron the bits and tap slice through it quite well.



After cleaning all the paint and AF crud from my motor the cracked looked to be about an inch long? As soon as I started drilling the powdered iron was drawn to the crack and lit up a 6 inck long brake, When I needed to see it better I just spread some of the iron on the crack. I put 2 extras out past the end of the crack.



Drilling square???? my crack was mostly in the bottom of the bend on the outside of the block, Most important is when you countersink the drilled holes you make them square to the line you drilled otherwise the step on the bolts will bind up and strip a hole. I was scared but I was not countersinking too deep so I sountersunk it again and cleaned the bottom threads I hadnt ruined and had success.



Be careful when coutersinking as the bit has a square and and will dig in if you arent strait causeing need for previous tip.



The tap and bolts have a funky thread, I have never seen anything like it, You will not get this from you local auto parts store. Its kinda like a fin shaped spiral instead of a pyramid, This is how it pulls/holds the block back together when tightened... ... .





If you have a cracked block give it a shot, what do you have to lose. A day and about $300 is alot better than 4k and up, besides what is in the Cummins is good for a million miles right.