Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Loctite® Blue Experts

[Sasquatch]

I used Loctite® Blue for the first time, today, when removing and reinstalling the bolts which hold the shifter gate assembly to the transmission housing.



I wanted to do the last member-suggested "fix" that's supposed to eliminate every last bit of linkage vibration and shifter "buzz" in the cab.



I followed the recommended instructions, which include removing the gate assembly bolts, (had to be broken loose with 5/8" wrench, WD-40, and breaker bar) and reinstalling them to the transmission housing after isolating the metal shift gate bracket with four rubber washers (for each bolt).



Obviously, when retightening the bolts, there's no way to tighten to factory torque specs, without deforming and destroying the rubber isolation washers. I used Loctite® Blue for the first time (applying liberally to bottom 1/4" of bolts), then tightened the bolts just until the washers started to drag and swell under the bolt heads.



My concern, naturally, is that relying on the Loctite® Blue to provide insurance against bolt loosening, is not a good idea, or won't provide long term insurance against vibration-caused loosening.



As I said, I've never used this product before, but it appeared sort of watery and insubstantial when I coated the bottom third of the bolts with it; I guess I expected something thicker—almost like regular silicone caulk.



Passing the bolts through the four rubber washers and shift-gate bracket was bound to scrape off some of the Loctite® Blue, too, so I'm not overwhelmed with confidence that it's going to do its job.



I would really appreciate anyone who's had experience over the years, with this stuff, and can speak, knowledgeably, about its effectiveness.



Thanks

 

[ronco]

Sasquatch, In my experience, the Loctite blue will do you a good job overall. The product is at its best when all parts are cleaned first. As far as rubbing some of the product off during assembly, only a drop is usually required. Be careful what you use the blue stuff on, it has great strength and can be permanent in some applications. Try to familiarize yourself with all three grades of threadlocker to know what is best suited for your application. HTH



ronco



Not affiliated with any company mentioned above, just a product user.

 

[mlockner]

I work at a large manufacturing facility and we use that stuff alot. I believe it will hold for you. If not they make stronger stuff than that.

Mike L.

 

[illflem]

The blue tends to get watery if you don't shake it up well.

I personally would have used red in your situation, but you'll probably be ok, just check the bolts when you change your oil.

 

[JohnE]

basic rules of using Loctite® or any thread lock material.



<li>always give the bottle a quick shake before applying.

<li>Liberal is better than scotch.

<li>24 hours at sustained temps of 60+&deg; for full cure.

<li>Apply into a blind hole and not the fastener threads. Hydraulic pressure will blow it off threads.

<li>Tightening torque is dropped by at least 20% due to the lubricating factor.

<li>Loctite is great for vibration problems. Be sure to follow the thread size recommendations.



Been there, done that, got two Loctite hats.



If checking a fastener and you "turn" it at all, remove and re-apply loctite. Once it breaks the hold power is mostly gone.

No need to clean off the old, just apply a drop or two of new and re-assemble.



-John

 

[Sasquatch]

Thanks, all, for your thoughtful replies.



I have a couple of concerns that relate to curing time and temperatures. The first is that the high temperature for the next four days will be about 45. The "mean" during the period will probably be closer to 30 degrees.



I don't have an enclosed, heated area in which to perform this sort of work. Everything is done on my back, working in my driveway, with a neighborhood ten-year-old passing me tools and advice.



I was concerned about using the "red," because heat (and plenty of it) is required to break the bond, and it was a certified nightmare getting tools (let alone a heat gun) on these fasteners, what with wiring loom, 4x4 drive-shaft, and other stuff in the way.



I ended up getting to the back bolt head, finally, by using a combination of ratchet, 12", 8", and swivel-head extensions. Felt like I was trying to dock with the International Space Station. So "red" worried me.



Also, I can imagine having to do this "fix" a couple more times, because the rubber washers will turn brittle and fail, eventually, so it's not a question of "if," but rather "when," the bolts will have to be removed.



I was able to get the fasteners fairly tight, so I'm hoping that gentle, routine driving will heat things up down there, and provide sufficient curing temps.



If not, there's always Loctite Red (and summertime temps), as illflem suggested.

 

[ronco]

Sasquatch, that red stuff is mean to remove. If you were to use the blue stuff on small, low carbon steel machine screws, you would twist the head off before releasing the bond. That's why I said it can be permanent in some installations. Also, red usually requires a torch to heat an area red hot to release the bond. Purple is my personal best friend.



ronco