Competition Long Block Buildup

[RyanB]

Well, in the last week I have been posting quite a bit on here about what I should have done to my P-pump.



Now its time for getting ideas on what to do to the long block.



The engine is currently out of the truck so the mods seem pretty much endless!!! I am going to be ussing this engine for street/pulling use and hopefully a dedicated puller in the future when a mod class starts up here in Canada but for now its a dual purpose engine.



I have been talking to Patty at Haisley's for a while now and they are going to be doing the buildup for me.



Here is a list of things that are going to be getting done and below that is a list of extra's that I am thinking about.



#1 - Dual fire-ring block/head

- 14mm studs/tap block/ream head

-valve job/heavy springs/titanium retainers seeing head is off

-street puller cam (no fly cutting required on pistons)

-I was going to go with 14mm main studs but Patty said my 96 block already has 14mm bolds instead of the 12mm encore blocks.

-Pump work (everything but the 13mm plungers)



#2 -Truck pull cam (non billet) requires flycutting pistons!

-Hi-Perf pistons (industrial cummins/flycut/non coated) Patty said coating wouldn't be the greatest for living up here in Canada because the engine won't heat quite as fast. ALso if they keep the compression ration in the mid-15's starting won't be a problem.

-balance the rotating assembly

-new rod/main bearings



Anything else I am missing feel free to bring it up. Also, I would rather keep the $$$ to a minimum if thats possible (I know no mater what I am going to be spending some money!) I am also getting there Street Puller clutch. I am running a set of custom built twins with HTB2-64-12 / HTB3-26.



So all in all... . what do you guys think I should do? how extreme should I go. I get the feeling that the engine is out... have 3 months before it has to go back in so why not do the whole 9 yards but I would to hear some imput on this.



Thanks... Ryan

 

[DieselTweaker]

balance your rotating assembly even if you go with #1

 

[MCummings]

Don't be afraid to flycut the pistons...



Go aggressive on the cam.



Port the shizzle out of the head.



Coat the Bearings, and pistons.



Balance the rotating assembly.



Girdle, and Stud the bottom end.



Lighten the rotating assembly as much as safely possible.





That's my $. 02

(If I were to do it again, that's how I would do it)

Merrick

 

[ThrottleJockey]

Don't forget that girdle like MCummings said!



Reciever grooves in the block and the head. Headgasket choices?

 

[smokinrod]

Not trying to steal the post but do all 96 and newer blocks run 14mm headstuds ? I thought all 12V had 12mm bolts?

 

[bgilbert]

He said main studs not headstuds.

 

[smokinrod]

oh my wrong sorry guys

 

[csutton7]

Ryan---you're wanting the both of best worlds and that's going to be tuff---but here's one pc of advice----build it like you would if it was strictly a puller, as that's where you are going to end up anyway--no sense having to do something twice when once will work---for street driving detune it with injectors, plate, etc..... then when you want the nasty side just change out the simple parts----now I'll say I'm not sure about how much you can detune a 12v(cuz I'm a 24ver) to make it start up in the frost of Canada, so I'd be asking every question about every scenario I could---sounds like fun--good luck---chris

 

[RyanB]

Thanks guys for the reply's. I forgot about the girdle when I first posted!! I have been doing alot of thinking about this in the past few days and now think I will do all I can to the actual engine (long block) and just put the normal mods into the pump for a high HP street driver/puller and when that time comes to step up into the big class I I will do is swap out the pump with a race unit and swap injectors.



Any other hints/advice our there?



Thanks... Ryan

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Ryan, that what I did with my truck! I had addressed everything that could bolt on so then I went after the short block and did the full tilt. The compression in the 15's isn't bad but you do need a good set if grid heaters(mine aren't) or plug it in..... or both. If your running big injectors and big timing that will be an issue but when it's cold you'll have it detuned and detimed so no big deal.



Like it was said above, if your going to do it, do it all. Like my 14mm's! Did I have an issue with 12's, nope, just more of a clamp.



Jim

 

[RyanB]

Jim- Starting in the cold is one thing that I am worried about! Being up here in the "Great White North" (canada) we usually see most of Dec,Jan,Feb in at lease the - degree's... this year is an exeption! it is very warm up here this winter and no snow:-( Anyway, I always plug in the trucks on the cold nights... with the 15's I might just have to start in october instead of december.



Ryan

 

[Jim Fulmer]

I think my grids are just old and don't like to play, when they did it was no issue. Be ready for it to smoke more when it's cold though without being plugged in.



Jim

 

[ThrottleJockey]

I have my compression in the 15s



I made my grid heaters full manuel control with a toggle, LED, a relay and some big extreme duty solenoids.



I swapped out the stock 750 watt block heater for a 1500 watt unit.



And lastly, a pair of Odyssey Deep Cycle 2250 amp batterys.



I own the cold.

 

[JoshWoodruff]

Ryan B

Sounds good to me, have you considered a roller billet camshaft great for street competition pullers. Don't have to knock very much compression out to go roller. The price$ is a little scary compared to a intermediate grind camshaft. The girdle is a great idea, keep those 2 and 5 main caps from walking. I'm working on a girdle that will be 5/8 of an inch thick. It will be much like the Cummins girdle but will be made out of thick material. It will be made out of hot rolled and ground on both sides. It will have to use a different stud then the Haisley because of the thickness of the plate. You will have to have all your main caps machined flat and then use a spacer block in between the girdle and the cap. This should really tie everything in together. Not sure on price yet but I'm thinking somewhere in the $1000. 00 range including ARP studs. Hopefully I will have one completed in the next few weeks and can get a picture on my web page.



Josh Woodruff

www.woodruffdiesel.com

 

[RyanB]

Well, I have decieded to go with the girdle now but am just going to run the 14mm bolts instead of the 14xl studs. Reason being is the bridges have to be custom built and its quite a bit more money. I see no problem with just going with the bolts anyway instead of studs. I know alot of 2wd mod pullers up here that actually prefer to run main bolts instead of studs. They say there is actually some flex going this route instead of being rock solid there for snapping cranks!



So add the girdle to my list! I have also stepped up to Haisley's Comp Puller from the Street Puller.



Now the last part is just to figure out what to do to the pump.



Ryan